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#21
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I would never use my home oven or barbecue to heat up parts to cure paint.
An old junk oven or barbecue sure but nothing I planned to cook my food with. I have never baked my painted manifolds just ran them. Might be a good practice to just run the engine a couple minutes and let them cool a few times.
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1964 Tempest Coupe LS3/4L70E/3.42 1964 Le Mans Convertible 421 HO/TH350/2.56 2002 WS6 Convertible LS1/4L60E/3.23 |
#22
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Quote:
Now the new "high temp" stuff just says after 24 hour cure to heat to 300 for brush on & 400 for spray on, can probably do that on the car the easiest and run engine for 2 minutes then cool. Can use a infrared heat gun to check the temps if you want to be more accurate, exhaust manifolds & headers heat up very fast on the engine, 2 minutes would be more than enough to reach 300-400 degrees. Also, exhaust manifolds should be cast iron grey, not silver if that matters to you. https://por15.com/collections/high-t...39607014424743 Could also check around your city for a shop that does powder coating, they will probably let you put them in their oven when they cure a batch of parts for free. But on the engine is the easiest way to hit 400°. |
#23
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I used the Eastwood brush on manifold paint and three years later with 2500 miles they still look new.
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#24
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This is what I used on my factory driver side log manifold while I had it off to replace the shim gasket. I first coated it with hi-heat Rustoleum primer and let it sit for a few days to cure before coating it with the POR-15 Manifold Gray. It's a good, natural cast iron shade and hasn't even shown a remote sign of flaking off or peeling.
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1979 Trans Am W72 400/4-Speed WS6 - Starlight Black Hardtop
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#25
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I've been really happy with the Eastwood manifold coating in spray cans. It lasted longer than the powder coating I had done and is easy to touch up if you need to.
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Ken '68 GTO - Ram Air II 464 - 236/242 roller - 9.5” TSP converter - Moser 3.55 Truetrac (build thread | walk around) '95 Comp T/A #6 M6 - bone stock (pics) |
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