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#21
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Have any of you gentlemen look at the Nitemare Performance pan?
http://nitemareperformance.com/prices2.html
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Johnny US Army Retired 1978 T/A 463 Pontiac, KRE 74cc 292CFM D-ports, Lunati VooDoo, V-max lifters, TKII, ATM 850 E85 carb, TCI TH-350 race tranny, 3600 converter 3.73 12 bolt 11.63@116.68mph 1981 T/A 4-speed 406 Pontiac, Merrick ported 6X heads, Comp 270S cam, Crosswind intake 750 Street Demon, 3.42 30 spline Eaton posi street car. 1980 Formula 350 Pontiac back burner project 1972 LeMans 350 Pontiac |
#22
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#23
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I just found the following pic on this site somewhere that shows the 455SD pickup, which is remarkably similar to the 427 BBC pickup I'm planning to use. I calculated that the bottom of this is 1/2 inch from the bottom of the stock pan, compared to the 11/16 the garden variety pickup is. I had hoped to run even closer, 1/4 inch. Comments? |
#24
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I found a Milodon pan the same depth as my deepened Canton and use the pick up for it.
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Skip Fix 1978 Trans Am original owner 10.99 @ 124 pump gas 455 E heads, NO Bird ever! 1981 Black SE Trans Am stockish 6X 400ci, turbo 301 on a stand 1965 GTO 4 barrel 3 speed project 2004 GTO Pulse Red stock motor computer tune 13.43@103.4 1964 Impala SS 409/470ci 600 HP stroker project 1979 Camaro IAII Edelbrock head 500" 695 HP 10.33@132 3595lbs |
#25
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Does the milodon have this? BTW, I bought my TA new, and without the bird |
#26
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No it looks like a Canton rectangular pickup.
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Skip Fix 1978 Trans Am original owner 10.99 @ 124 pump gas 455 E heads, NO Bird ever! 1981 Black SE Trans Am stockish 6X 400ci, turbo 301 on a stand 1965 GTO 4 barrel 3 speed project 2004 GTO Pulse Red stock motor computer tune 13.43@103.4 1964 Impala SS 409/470ci 600 HP stroker project 1979 Camaro IAII Edelbrock head 500" 695 HP 10.33@132 3595lbs |
#27
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this one? it looks like it could have a "salami" cut
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#28
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I've done most of the fabrication as per the photo.
This was not the best project to learn how to make leak proof welds in sheet metal. There were literally dozens of pinholes leaks. I've now got a pan that looks a bit like "just rolled in" on youtube, but there are no leaks. I may try to use some body solder to improve the esthetics Like many things I've done in my life, it would work better doing it the second time |
#29
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I’m no welder, but that seems like a tough job. Did you end up using the factory pan as a donor?
Was it a used pan? If so, how did you go about cleaning all the oil off? It’s a ways off till my car is ready, but I’m hoping to get out on the road course myself. I picked up a Canton road race pan to use, it’s a bit disheartening to see that it might not be enough to keep my engine happy. My plans are to make a jack of all trades street car, balanced, but with an emphasis on handling. Main thing is I don’t wanna spin a bearing on a long sweeper On a similar note, I decided to drop the coin on a Luhn Performance oil pump. They fab their own pickups, seem like a much better design than stock, from a flow perspective. Figured you might wanna check em out if your pickup doesn’t end up how you want it.
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67 LeMans, 326, M20, 3.31 12 Bolt |
#30
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Defiantly do not put any solder on it. If you do, you can never weld that spot again with steel. |
#31
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My welding has improved substantially during this operation. If I were to do it again, I would do things differently. I can now lay a beautiful bead. The part of the job I thought would be hard, ie, fitting the 1" strip was really easy. The canton pan is trash. It's not deep enough, and does not hinder oil migration in the pan. Anyone can PM me with your number, and I will provide more details and rational and share what I learned welding I'm now just about to fill the pan with red ATF and leave it to see if there are leaks. I was using water yeah, soldering is likely a bad idea Here is how the baffles are laid out Last edited by reacp911; 03-29-2024 at 08:14 AM. |
#32
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I actually prefer welding sheet metal with an oxy-acetylene torch, over MIG welding to get a fluid tight weld that is aesthetically pleasing to the eye, but of course you have another process to learn from scratch if you're only accustomed to MIG welding at this point. Although I've never TIG welded, that process is closest to oxy-acetylene welding, because both use a heat source, and filler rod to close the gaps of the joined metals together. If it were me, at this point I'd use the sudden stops with water in the pan, in the bed of a pickup to prove your theory, and execution of your modifications to keep oil around the pickup. It's a heckuva lot easier than testing it in car, then pulling it back out if it doesn't work as planned, and cheaper too. I'd rather have done the backyard field test under my belt before doing the whole install in chassis. Just a suggestion, you do what you feel will work in your situation.
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Brad Yost 1973 T/A (SOLD) 2005 GTO 1984 Grand Prix 100% Pontiacs in my driveway!!! What's in your driveway? If you don't take some of the RACETRACK home with you, Ya got cheated Last edited by Sirrotica; 03-29-2024 at 10:24 AM. |
#33
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my MIG welder also does lift TIG, but this process seems to generate a lot more heat, and thus more warpage. I have a theory that the biggest problem with oiling systems is to get the oil back to the pickup. The amount of oil near the pickup even with baffles is very little. Unfortunately, baptism of fire is the only way to test. Speaking of testing, I tested the pickup by sucking water with my wet-dry and comparing different designs |
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