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#101
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#102
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Come on guys we got a couple more pages to go to hit 10 the magic number..LOL i’ll tell you though I got a hell of an education from this. LOL come on guys you got to have a sense of humor and all this.
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#103
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99.99% come here to ask questions and learn.
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#104
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#105
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Hopefully the op's engine lives a happy life no matter how he chooses to take care of it. |
The Following User Says Thank You to Formulajones For This Useful Post: | ||
#106
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So when someone tells you your oil is too thick for colder temps, just look up those graphs. Not all oils are created the same. |
The Following User Says Thank You to Formulajones For This Useful Post: | ||
#107
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These days with the type of rings used and with the way rings are made if you had a shop do your build and they over bored the cylinders then the one and only reason there needs to be any ring break in period at all is because the shop left out the final important step .
This step should have been a brief Plateau hone session . The term break in to me has always meant unnecessary ware and fine grit getting into the oil.
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Wernher Von Braun warned before his retirement from NASA back in 1972, that the next world war would be against the ETs! And he was not talking about 1/8 or 1/4 mile ETs! 1) 1940s 100% silver 4 cup tea server set. Two dry rotted 14 x 10 Micky Thompson slicks. 1) un-mailed in gift coupon from a 1972 box of corn flakes. Two pairs of brown leather flip flops, never seen more then 2 mph. Education is what your left with once you forget things! |
#108
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Every situation can be different, for me, my 150k+ daily driver has zero leaks anywhere using full synthetic, usually valvoline... but as mentioned, modern foreign cars usually have engines designed to seal better than gm's or fords so that could be a factor. And your rebuilt pontiac doesnt leak with full synthetic so that indicates there was an issue with the 100k engine allowing the synthetic to leak. FJ, I agree with the cold pour thing, amsoil is very good oil, but if you ever watched the project farm testing of oil cold pour, supertech synthetic does almost as good as the exotic amsoils, redline & royal purples in that test. The chart I recall you posting also compared the amsoil to other non synthetic oils, of course it cold pours better than even thinner normal oils. The other thing to remember, is that very few classic cars are started or driven in those cold pour test temps, so the actual hot weight of 50 in a 20/50 oil is still a 50 weight when hot and many "normal" street engines wont have any benefit from that super thick oil. Its pretty normal for oil related threads to go off on other tangents once the main question is answered. Its not a "chit storm", lots of good info, & some bad gets posted for others to learn from. Personally I like discussing oil related subjects especially when there are so many myths or false info, like modern oil has had all the zddp removed, or you need a race type oil for a stock or small fully broken in cam or you cant switch from regular to synthetic oil for this or that reason. But looks like the OP builder was concerned about ring seat issues at break in vs leaks for the warranty. |
#109
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I agree. That`s why I added the old school poncho to the discussion. The oil doesn`t "cause" a leak. But, I would use caution when adding to a higher mileage engine when that engine has had regular oil it`s whole life. |
The Following User Says Thank You to PunchT37 For This Useful Post: | ||
#110
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There are other good ones out there too, I'm not trying to promote Amsoil, just seems so many here choose to ignore industry standard and approved test facts and just want to keep regurgitating the same old rubbish that their dad's friends uncle was told from 30 years ago. Oil has come a long way since. On another note, because I know people just don't want to spend money and that's where the subject will turn next based off every other oil discussion. Even though they are spending over $7 a quart for conventional VR1. I'm only paying $8 a quart for what people consider "exotic" Amsoil delivered to my door. So it's not like I'm spending a fortune for what I feel is way better protection based off my oil analysis. In fact it's actually saving me money because I've found I could extend those oil changes much further, up to 6,000 miles and still a very clean oil analysis. When you consider it costs $10,000 or more to build a really nice solid 500-600+HP engine these days why would anyone be worried about oil that only costs them another $6-$7 per oil change? Doesn't anyone want the best for their investment? Instead people skate by with what ever seems to be working for the time being and on top of that don't even bother with an oil analysis to see how it's working for them. That's the part that doesn't make a whole bunch of sense to me. But hey, if it's working for everyone, so be it. We should get back to the subject after 100,000 miles and see how everyone is doing. Oh wait, no one drives these hot rod classic cars more than 1,000 miles a year so we'll all be dead and gone by then. lol |
The Following User Says Thank You to Formulajones For This Useful Post: | ||
#111
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You know what would be interesting, this will probably go no where but it would be a great conversation and we wouldn't have to wait a century for mileage to accumulate, if a bunch of us pooled together, started and thread, and did an oil analysis, but not just any oil analysis. Posts with detailed engine specs, spring pressures, type of camshaft, which oil filter and air filter used, what brand of oil, driving habits throughout that span, and see how it's doing after 2000 or 3000 miles. Post the analysis and compare. Real results will be right on the paper.
Maybe we'll find out that some cheaper stuff might be working well or maybe the expensive stuff isn't doing any better, whether that be oils or filters. Might even find out if our oil filter of choice is worth anything. It would be a neat thread if we could get enough participants for a wide variety of oils and filters used. Post it for everyone to see and let those make what should be their own more educated decisions. At the very least others will find piece of mind with their choices while others may find problems they didn't know they had. Just a thought..... |
The Following User Says Thank You to Formulajones For This Useful Post: | ||
#112
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70 TA, 467 cid IAII, Edelbrock D-port heads, 9.94:1, Butler HR 236/242 @ .050, 520/540 lift, 112 LSA, Q-jet, TKX (2.87 1st/.81 OD), 3.31 rear https://youtube.com/shorts/gG15nb4FWeo?feature=share |
The Following User Says Thank You to jhein For This Useful Post: | ||
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