[R 70 Judge]

If anyone is upgrading to a Tanks Inc set up, I have a brand new Walbro 450 set up from them still sitting in the box. To give me room to grow once the turbos go on I will be using a dual Walbro 450 set up.

Here’s a link to it. It’s the GPA-9 “Hellcat” pump. It’s E85 compatible

https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/p...rod/prd605.htm

https://www.tanksinc.com/pdf/9_Series_Hellcat_Pump.pdf

[ZeGermanHam]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

I don't see why you would need an emergency shut off.. I've experimented but in the end decided not to use them on my carb setups. They rely on oil pressure to kick the pump off which would sometimes result in excessive cranking when cold or if the car had been sitting a while. More of a nuisance than a benefit and found myself worrying about something that may never even happen.

While I don't think the emergency shutoff switch is crucial, it's a nice safety net and is very simple and inexpensive to install. It was a no-brainer for me. The sender only needs 2-3psi to send the signal to the fuel pump, and with a carb you still have the fuel in your bowls to give it a squirt before cranking. My car fires up instantaneously with the safety switch installed. It starts right now even when it hasn't been started in weeks, so excessive cranking hasn't been an issue for me. I was wondering if it might, but it has been great.

Originally Posted by Formulajones

You may have been the victim of overthinking it.

I agree with this quite a bit.

[jhein]

What? Me, overthinking it? No way.

LOL

[jhein]

OK, so I got the system configured. Tanks, Inc tank using their tube style sender with their passive 1/2 inch pickup. Classic Tube custom 1/2 factory style stainless steel line. RobbMc 550 hp pump. I feel good about that. Stock type system with no major mods. That's got my name written all over it.

Thanks for all the input.

[78w72]

Originally Posted by jhein

OK, so I got the system configured. Tanks, Inc tank using their tube style sender with their passive 1/2 inch pickup. Classic Tube custom 1/2 factory style stainless steel line. RobbMc 550 hp pump. I feel good about that. Stock type system with no major mods. That's got my name written all over it.

Thanks for all the input.

cool, will be interesting to see how it works out for you in general but more so at the track with good traction. i never thought about going this route, getting the benefit of a baffled tank but still using a good mech pump. then in the future if desired being able to go to their intank pump & having the tank already there.

if you havent bought the 550 pump yet, consider the 1100, the 550hp is rated as static use with a short straight run of fuel line, once you get almost 20ft of line with curves in it, some are 90° or close to it, plus g forces from launching, the hp number it can support is greatly reduced. the 1100 version will be a big improvement with resreves for your power level that will compensate for the length of line & g forces. or last i knew they will convert the 550 to the 1100 for about $100. the newer 1100 i heard is not adjustable like the older one i have that lets you dial it down to 7psi so no regulator needed at that psi but easy to add a regulator if you go to the bigger pump.

[Joe-Touring]

Originally Posted by jhein

OK, so I got the system configured. Tanks, Inc tank using their tube style sender with their passive 1/2 inch pickup. Classic Tube custom 1/2 factory style stainless steel line. RobbMc 550 hp pump. I feel good about that. Stock type system with no major mods. That's got my name written all over it.

Thanks for all the input.

jhein, did you get this setup running? This is pretty much what I’ve been planning on for when I step up to a bigger engine. I like the idea of optimizing the factory-ish design and keeping the electronics to a minimum. I have a bit of a clean wire routing compulsion.

On a related note, I’ve been using one of those oil pressure switches (Standard PS-127) to control the power to my choke(and idiot light). Been using it for years and thousands of miles with no issues. I figure amp draw from an electric choke or fuel pump relay would be similarly low.

[RocktimusPryme]

FWIW thats pretty much the exact same system that I had in my Firebird when it was carbed and I still ended up going to the in tank pump eventually. Only difference was I had the Robb MC pickup in a stock replacement tank.

On the street, it was fine, but it never wanted to get all the way down the track. I upgraded to the bigger Robb MC pump. Was better but still had issues racing. Switched to the in tank pump with the Tanks INC tank and never looked back. Eventually went to EFI, but I had the in tank on the carb for a while.

Caveat here is I had a Q-jet. If you have a Holley with its bigger bowls and dual needle and seats that might mask the issue.

[jhein]

Originally Posted by Joe-Touring

jhein, did you get this setup running? This is pretty much what I’ve been planning on for when I step up to a bigger engine. I like the idea of optimizing the factory-ish design and keeping the electronics to a minimum. I have a bit of a clean wire routing compulsion.

On a related note, I’ve been using one of those oil pressure switches (Standard PS-127) to control the power to my choke(and idiot light). Been using it for years and thousands of miles with no issues. I figure amp draw from an electric choke or fuel pump relay would be similarly low.

I've stalled out on this project for the moment. The reason for that is that once I got the RobbMc 550 pump installed, I don't have any noticeable starvation. So that sort of took all the urgency out of the picture. This spring I'm planning on the baffled tank, 1/2 pickup and 1/2 line to the pump, but not the stock line. I'm going to run it up the drivers side so it will be shorter and less bends. So that's the plan right now. All subject to change without notice.

[jhein]

Originally Posted by RocktimusPryme

FWIW thats pretty much the exact same system that I had in my Firebird when it was carbed and I still ended up going to the in tank pump eventually. Only difference was I had the Robb MC pickup in a stock replacement tank.

On the street, it was fine, but it never wanted to get all the way down the track. I upgraded to the bigger Robb MC pump. Was better but still had issues racing. Switched to the in tank pump with the Tanks INC tank and never looked back. Eventually went to EFI, but I had the in tank on the carb for a while.

Caveat here is I had a Q-jet. If you have a Holley with its bigger bowls and dual needle and seats that might mask the issue.

My motor is probably around 500hp, so a fair amount less than yours. And since I'm not racing it's not as important. Honestly, if the motor was running like it is now from the time it went back in the car, I would probably just leave it as is. But since I've started with all this I'm just going to do it all.