FAQ |
Members List |
Social Groups |
Calendar |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#21
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Rich |
The Following User Says Thank You to gtorich For This Useful Post: | ||
#22
|
||||
|
||||
Oh my God !! Unbelievable.
|
#23
|
||||
|
||||
It’s not that bad LOL. It’s just annoying. Car runs great.
__________________
468/TKO600 Ford thru bolt equipped 64 Tempest Custom. Custom Nocturne Blue with black interior. |
#24
|
||||
|
||||
I am relieved to hear that. LOL
|
#25
|
||||
|
||||
Still think it would be a good idea to reach out to members of the Palmetto Pontiac club. There are some very knowledgeable guys in that club,
|
#26
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
what kind of oil and weight do you use? There's many articles out there about ester oils and how they help with seal issues. i think perhaps the key on that might be seal related vs say gasket, but i dont know, i've seen articles and it would say seals. maybe using to thin oil? to fine? maybe try a group V base stock? i use motul and haven't had issues but as i've mentioned in the past, that engine dye stuff really helped me one trick we did with a few customer cars, i should say the shop guys would do, is when troubleshooting an issue as finding a fine oil leak with a dye, is change oil, add dye, but on this change use the thinnest oil you can get your hands on, as thin oil, especially syn oils, if theres a place to leak, you'll leak and probably have better luck finding it. i used 0-8w when i did my troubleshooting, and of course changed once i saw the issue was resolved. didn't want dye flying around any longer than it needed. I know, probably just some stupid thinking on my part, but hey it worked for me. i know in the later 70s/early 80s guys used to use thicker oils to help reduce leaks, again oil was so different back then, also for other tricks too, but you can compound other problems i suppose. just a little more thinking outside the box to possibly help |
The Following User Says Thank You to Don 79 TA For This Useful Post: | ||
#27
|
||||
|
||||
This is still baffling me. I am dripping still BUT it looks like it’s coming from the front of the engine based on the driveway stain. It is nowhere near the back it’s more towards the middle. Front of the pan and timing cover and fuel pump are bone dry. I am lost
__________________
468/TKO600 Ford thru bolt equipped 64 Tempest Custom. Custom Nocturne Blue with black interior. |
#28
|
||||
|
||||
Around that middle area of the pan where you think it’s leaking remove two or three pan bolts .
If the threads are wet then that’s where a poor gasket seal is letting oil get the bolt and when all is hot weep out.
__________________
Wernher Von Braun warned before his retirement from NASA back in 1972, that the next world war would be against the ETs! And he was not talking about 1/8 or 1/4 mile ETs! 1) 1940s 100% silver 4 cup tea server set. Two dry rotted 14 x 10 Micky Thompson slicks. 1) un-mailed in gift coupon from a 1972 box of corn flakes. Two pairs of brown leather flip flops, never seen more then 2 mph. Education is what your left with once you forget things! |
The Following User Says Thank You to steve25 For This Useful Post: | ||
#29
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
|
#30
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
__________________
70 TA, 467 cid IAII, Edelbrock D-port heads, 9.94:1, Butler HR 236/242 @ .050, 520/540 lift, 112 LSA, Q-jet, TKX (2.87 1st/.81 OD), 3.31 rear https://youtube.com/shorts/gG15nb4FWeo?feature=share |
#31
|
||||
|
||||
Check the bottom of the power steering pump and the power steering box itself. You need a lift to get under it.
__________________
68 Firebird. IA2 block, 505 cu in, SD Performance E-head, Solid roller 3600 weight. Reid TH400 4:11 gear. 29" slick. Best so far 9.95@134 mph. 1.43 60 ft. 76 Trans am, TKX .81 o/d, 3.73 Moser rearend, 468 with KRE D-ports, Doug headers, 3" Exh. |
The Following User Says Thank You to chuckies76ta For This Useful Post: | ||
#32
|
||||
|
||||
It’s not far enough back to be rear main
__________________
468/TKO600 Ford thru bolt equipped 64 Tempest Custom. Custom Nocturne Blue with black interior. |
#33
|
||||
|
||||
Only one way to find out where it's coming from - grit your teeth, get under there and take a peek.
Dye might be a good way to trace the leak, just be aware that it sticks around in your engine for a while. I pulled and disassembled my engine twice and have done three or four oil changes since I put the dye in. The new oil still has a slight glow to it under UV.
__________________
Ken '68 GTO - 464 - Ram Air II heads - 236/242 roller - 9.5” TSP converter - Moser 3.55 Truetrac (build thread | walk around) '95 Comp T/A #6 M6 - bone stock (pics) |
#34
|
||||
|
||||
After thorough examination I think a lot of mine is the drivers side valve cover. It has Felpro cork gaskets. Anyone recommend something else?
__________________
468/TKO600 Ford thru bolt equipped 64 Tempest Custom. Custom Nocturne Blue with black interior. |
#35
|
|||
|
|||
I have felpro cork gaskets in use for 15+ years that are bone dry, are you using steel covers or aluminum? If steel make sure the gasket surfaces are flat around bolt holes & maybe try the load spreaders, if aluminum spreaders shouldnt be needed since they are more rigid than steel.
Some get by with dry cork gaskets but I always use a thin layer of ultra black/grey permatex sealer, just a thin bead smoothed out with your finger to glue to the cover then a very thin layer to the head, will seal it up for a very long time & if careful when removing it lets you take them off and reuse a few times, just a light clean up of any lose area & a fresh coat on the head surface each time. Doing them dry with a light layer of grease can work too but the ultra black seems to give them a skin to allow more uses, almost like a rubber coated gasket. They make a steel core rubber gasket too that gets mostly good reviews too. |
#36
|
||||
|
||||
I've been using Felpro cork gaskets for over 40 years. The ones on my '65 are 42 years old and just starting to weep a small amount. I use no sealant at all on VC gaskets, just a couple dabs of grease to keep them in place on the valve cover when installing. And then I don't overtighten the valve covers.
__________________
Jeff |
#37
|
||||
|
||||
Probably valve cover leak
__________________
1963 Cat SD Clone (old school) streeter 1964 GTO post coupe, tripower, 4speed (build) 1965 GTO 389 tripower, 4 speed, driver 1966 GTO dragcar 1966 GTO Ragtop 1969 Tempest ET clone street/strip 1969 GTO Judge RA lll, auto 1969 GTO limelight Conv. 4speed go and show (sold) 1970 GP SSJ 1970 GTO barn find..TLB…390 horse?….yeh, 390 1972 GTO 455 HO, 4 speed, (build) 1973 Grand Safari wagon, 700hp stoplight sleeper 525ci DCI & 609ci LM V head builds |
#38
|
||||
|
||||
I use the 1/4” thick cork FelPro gaskets since they’re more forgiving. I dab a little weatherstrip adhesive on the valve cover side to keep them in place, nothing on the head side. The key is not over tightening.
__________________
Ken '68 GTO - 464 - Ram Air II heads - 236/242 roller - 9.5” TSP converter - Moser 3.55 Truetrac (build thread | walk around) '95 Comp T/A #6 M6 - bone stock (pics) |
#39
|
||||
|
||||
They are aluminum valve covers not chrome so I don’t think the flange is bent.
__________________
468/TKO600 Ford thru bolt equipped 64 Tempest Custom. Custom Nocturne Blue with black interior. |
#40
|
||||
|
||||
I use the 1/4” thick cork FelPro gaskets since they’re more forgiving. I dab a little weatherstrip adhesive on the valve cover side to keep them in place, nothing on the head side. The key is not over tightening.
__________________
Ken '68 GTO - 464 - Ram Air II heads - 236/242 roller - 9.5” TSP converter - Moser 3.55 Truetrac (build thread | walk around) '95 Comp T/A #6 M6 - bone stock (pics) |
Reply |
|
|