[HWYSTR455]

Keep in mind too that the rev limiter is set to 4500, and most rev limiters drop timing, or technically, spark. Some ignition boxes start dropping spark at 1000 RPM below the set mark.

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[Schurkey]

Originally Posted by MIke L

I was gonna start a thread on this but maybe this would be a good spot…..
Are all antifreeze products the same?

Is one better than another in lowering and maintaining temperature, or does the 50/50 premix of any given brand really doesn’t matter that much?

Anti-freeze is like fingerprints. They're all the same if you're the janitor. They're all different if you're a detective.

Anti-freeze is all glycol + additives. Most of 'em are ethylene glycol based, some are propylene glycol based. The additives make the difference, but I bet that isn't 20% of the fluid volume.

[64speed]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

Yeah I eluded to the tune early on in his other thread, specifically timing, but he's assured us he feels it's good.

Me personally, I agree, more idle timing would help the situation and a correctly dialed in vacuum advance is always a plus. I've said before 9 times out of 10 the cars that I have my hands on, timing is usually the problem that cures lots of things like different drivability issues, carb issues, as well as temps.

First and foremost I am not a tuner so I can’t say with absolute certainty that it’s spot on but it runs and starts better than the first iteration. The only problem I do have is it turns over slow when it’s heat soaked but I attributed that more to the generic NAPA battery cable that’s 4 AWG. I bought a 0 AWG that I am swapping on Saturday to see if that fixes it. If we are being Frank it runs good enough to where I am afraid to mess with it anymore for taking a step backwards.

[Schurkey]

Originally Posted by MIke L

does the 50/50 premix of any given brand

Forgot to address this in my previous post.

DO NOT buy "50/50" "Premixed" anti-freeze. It's a scam.

It doesn't cost much less than the full-strength, concentrated stuff, and a gallon of distilled water is only a dollar or so.

Buy it full-strength; mix it with (distilled) water yourself.

[64speed]

Originally Posted by Schurkey

Forgot to address this in my previous post.

DO NOT buy "50/50" "Premixed" anti-freeze. It's a scam.

It doesn't cost much less than the full-strength, concentrated stuff, and a gallon of distilled water is only a dollar or so.

Buy it full-strength; mix it with (distilled) water yourself.

Yeah I never do. 16 dollars for a half gallon of water

[Formulajones]

Originally Posted by 64speed

First and foremost I am not a tuner so I can’t say with absolute certainty that it’s spot on but it runs and starts better than the first iteration. The only problem I do have is it turns over slow when it’s heat soaked but I attributed that more to the generic NAPA battery cable that’s 4 AWG. I bought a 0 AWG that I am swapping on Saturday to see if that fixes it. If we are being Frank it runs good enough to where I am afraid to mess with it anymore for taking a step backwards.

Understandable. You'll just have to drive it a while as is and see if you're comfortable with it. You might not want to do any further experimenting if you're satisfied. But that's what it'll take, some experimenting and time spent.

[HWYSTR455]

There should be no 'fear' with tuning. You can always revert any changes.

Running 'good enough' for a period of time can cause problems, so if you have any 'fear', it should be from it not being tuned right to begin with.

What's you initial timing? You know how to use a timing light right?

Is there vacuum advance? (Let's answer that question, it's an important fact)

Considering your posts about run-on and other stuff, the tune is in question. Fix it.

If you have to, send your distributor out to be curved.


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[MatthewKlein]

Originally Posted by Schurkey

Forgot to address this in my previous post.

DO NOT buy "50/50" "Premixed" anti-freeze. It's a scam.

It doesn't cost much less than the full-strength, concentrated stuff, and a gallon of distilled water is only a dollar or so.

Buy it full-strength; mix it with (distilled) water yourself.

I buy 50/50 global coolant by the 55gal drum. Costs me 1.40qt
There has to be an auto mechanic shop near you that would sell you coolant by the gallon for a reasonable price.

I'm sure everyone posting in this thread owns a modern vehicle with 100,000 mile extended life coolant in it. It works. Green antifreeze is obsolete.

[64speed]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

There should be no 'fear' with tuning. You can always revert any changes.

Running 'good enough' for a period of time can cause problems, so if you have any 'fear', it should be from it not being tuned right to begin with.

What's you initial timing? You know how to use a timing light right?

Is there vacuum advance? (Let's answer that question, it's an important fact)

Considering your posts about run-on and other stuff, the tune is in question. Fix it.

If you have to, send your distributor out to be curved.


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Yes I have vacuum advance. My initial timing is 13 BTDC. I was able to cure the run on by dropping the RPM from 1000 to 800. I can adjust timing and idle circuits. I thought you meant getting into things like jetting etc.

[Formulajones]

Originally Posted by MatthewKlein

I buy 50/50 global coolant by the 55gal drum. Costs me 1.40qt
There has to be an auto mechanic shop near you that would sell you coolant by the gallon for a reasonable price.

I'm sure everyone posting in this thread owns a modern vehicle with 100,000 mile extended life coolant in it. It works. Green antifreeze is obsolete.

Nope lol

I just buy the green full strength and mix it myself. Cheaper than buying the pre mixed stuff for sure. By the time I mix a gallon myself I end up with 2 gallons 50/50

I've never had an issue running the standard green antifreeze. I make it a habit every couple years I just drain the antifreeze and refill with fresh on every car. No need for a full on flush or any of that, just replenish a couple gallons with fresh. It's easy and cheap, not a big deal.

[78w72]

The green stuff is not obsolete for classic cars, i bought about 15 gallons of the concentrate for my cars a few years ago, most brands say good for 5 years/50k miles. the Newer 10yr stuff is compatible with the green stuff and costs about $10-$12/gal concentrate, noting wrong with using that stuff as a top off or full fill.

I do like FJ stated with the green stuff , after the initial fill on a rebuilt or clean engine, i just do a radiator drain & fill adding ~1-1.5 gallons every few years, many times ive gone longer, especially when i was younger, never had any coolant related problems in classic or daily driver cars.

[HWYSTR455]

They don't even sell the green stuff around me anymore, maybe it's an EPA thing, not sure.

The orange stuff used to be 'formulated' for aluminum engine parts, but think they started making all the types safe for aluminum.


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[78w72]

Lots of brands still make traditional green stuff, sold at common auto parts stores nationwide.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...evrolet-camaro

https://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/res...?Ntt=100700151

https://www.amazon.com/Zerex-Origina...724898793&th=1

[HWYSTR455]

In color only, they changed the formula and just starting making it in green too. I believe it was due to 2 things, EPA and consumer confusion.

"Towards the end of the 1990's, vehicle manufacturers began to use more aluminum and nylon in cooling systems. That meant the anti-corrosion elements in the green antifreeze formula, specifically meant to prevent corroding in metals, were no longer effective against these new components."

My comments were generic, hence "...think they started making all the types safe for aluminum.".

Color included.

I thought most would pick up on it without me being literal/verbose. It's old news.


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[78w72]

The traditional green type being discussed here has been the same for over 20 years and is still for sale is what I meant. When you said "they dont even sell the green stuff around me anymore", there was no indication of hidden meanings or changes made back in the 90's.

Sorry for the confusion, just thought you werent aware of the regular green stuff still being sold vs the newer extended life type that was mentioned above.

[MatthewKlein]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

Nope lol

I just buy the green full strength and mix it myself. Cheaper than buying the pre mixed stuff for sure. By the time I mix a gallon myself I end up with 2 gallons 50/50

I've never had an issue running the standard green antifreeze. I make it a habit every couple years I just drain the antifreeze and refill with fresh on every car. No need for a full on flush or any of that, just replenish a couple gallons with fresh. It's easy and cheap, not a big deal.

You're free to carry on however you want.

Global coolant is superior to the old green. There was a time in the late 90s/early 2000s when it wasn't but those days are history. Global never needs to be flushed or otherwise attended to. It comes out at 100,000 miles looking brand new.

I don't advocate coolant flushes anymore. Some of my more attentive customers want it and it's not gonna hurt to flush it. But it comes out looking new.

[Formulajones]

Originally Posted by MatthewKlein

You're free to carry on however you want.

Global coolant is superior to the old green. There was a time in the late 90s/early 2000s when it wasn't but those days are history. Global never needs to be flushed or otherwise attended to. It comes out at 100,000 miles looking brand new.

I don't advocate coolant flushes anymore. Some of my more attentive customers want it and it's not gonna hurt to flush it. But it comes out looking new.

I don't do flushes either. Never really liked the idea of running harsh flush chemicals through the cooling system. Since I change the stuff every few years with a simple drain and refill, I've never found a need to flush anyway, it comes out clean, I just put some fresh in. Sometimes I'll check the acidity level and it's never been a concern.
When I said Nope previously, that was to your comment of everyone owning a newer vehicle with modern coolant. I don't. Nothing but classics and I've just used the green coolant for decades and have found no reason to move towards the modern age of things.

[MatthewKlein]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

I don't do flushes either. Never really liked the idea of running harsh flush chemicals through the cooling system. Since I change the stuff every few years with a simple drain and refill, I've never found a need to flush anyway, it comes out clean, I just put some fresh in. Sometimes I'll check the acidity level and it's never been a concern.
When I said Nope previously, that was to your comment of everyone owning a newer vehicle with modern coolant. I don't. Nothing but classics and I've just used the green coolant for decades and have found no reason to move towards the modern age of things.

I don't have anything against the green. It works. For the longest time after the original dexcool debacle we had been flushing in green to replace dexcool

[MIke L]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

Nope lol

I just buy the green full strength and mix it myself. Cheaper than buying the pre mixed stuff for sure. By the time I mix a gallon myself I end up with 2 gallons 50/50

I've never had an issue running the standard green antifreeze. I make it a habit every couple years I just drain the antifreeze and refill with fresh on every car. No need for a full on flush or any of that, just replenish a couple gallons with fresh. It's easy and cheap, not a big deal.

If you just drain and fill the radiator without a flush, do we need to be absolutely certain what was used so we’re not mixing different brands with what is left in the block??

I ask because I read somewhere on here that some antifreeze’s aren’t compatible to each other.

Thanks

Mike

[HWYSTR455]

No worries. All colors are the same stuff these days, the stuff you're reading is from the early 2000s, or from people that don't know.

It even looks like the 'extended life' formulas are a gimmick, many of the other ones that don't state extended life are still higher mile/years listed.

Actually, some of the extended life ones only say 3 years or 30k miles. It's all over the board for 'life' or 'extended life'.

I personally don't trust the claims, but not going to get into a debate over.


As for color:

"DOES THE COLOR OF ANTIFREEZE MATTER? CAN YOU MIX ANTIFREEZE WITH DIFFERENT COLORED ANTIFREEZE PRODUCTS?
Color is used by many antifreeze and vehicle manufacturers for identification purposes. Color has no bearing on the performance of the antifreeze. Always follow the specifications in your owner's manual for coolant applications."

So it's probably just certain types of additives, and bet car manufacturers will always state to use their' brand.


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