[Entropy11]

I like Evapo-Rust for various parts/hardware that I can fit into a storage tote to soak. The results are great and the fact that it doesn’t ruin plated/plastic/rubber parts is a huge plus.

Lately the cost of it makes me think twice about using it, especially if I have parts in a larger sized tote. 4 gallons of the stuff is $100+. I saw Rust 911 mentioned in some video (Wray Schelin from Pro Shaper maybe?) and looked into it. A gallon of concentrate is $80 on Amazon. With that you can make 16 useable gallons. So far the results appear the same as Evapo-Rust.

[dataway]

Yep, cost is the main thing that kept me away from Evapo-Rust for anything larger than a shoe box. Shame the products are priced this way, they are just a concoction of industrial chemicals that probably cost a tiny fraction of what they charge ... but then they probably have to be bought in 50 gal barrels minium.

[Sirrotica]

Baking soda and a battery charger won't harm any soft parts either, and is a heckuva lot cheaper.

Evaporust Vs electrolysis, which is better, let's find out, Project Farm:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8dtDLQHjHBc

Evaporust, white vinegar, apple cider vinegar, molasses, muriatic acid, which is better, lets find out, Project Farm:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_dzlE9-9DVE

[Vroom_vroom]

Filled a gas tank with evapo rust. Was rather pleased with the results. However the issue was in the bottom couple inches of the tank.


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[Gator67]

Don’t make the mistake of buying Rustoleum Rust Dissolver rather than Evaporust….the containers looks real similar. You can leave metal items in Evaporust for a week and it will leave a nice black oxide looking finish. If do this with Rust Dissolver it will eat the metal.

[61-63]

Originally Posted by Sirrotica

Baking soda and a battery charger won't harm any soft parts either, and is a heckuva lot cheaper.

Evaporust Vs electrolysis, which is better, let's find out, Project Farm:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8dtDLQHjHBc

Evaporust, white vinegar, apple cider vinegar, molasses, muriatic acid, which is better, lets find out, Project Farm:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_dzlE9-9DVE

Evaporust is better I've tried them all. It doesn't harm aluminum, brass, plastic, etc. at all. Muriatic acid destroys aluminum and will eat the threads off of steel screws/bolts if you leave them in too long. Molasses is worthless, vinegar only works if operating on geologic time. Battery charger forget it.

[Singleton]

Ospho is my go to rust remover.

[VCho455]

I've used the battery charger method on fenders and quarter panels. Doing large parts that way is really cost effective compared to other methods. But getting the set up right is key to good results. The other plus is setting it up on a Sunday and pulling the part out the following weekend ready for body work is nice.

[Shiny]

Thanks for the post, I was not aware of an alternative to Evaporust.

I like Evaporust, have a bunch of fasteners in it right now.

I have used strong inorganic acids and electrolysis. IMO, the convenience, safety, and easy disposal make Evaporust a clear winner.

The Rust911 MSDS says "phosphonic acid" which sounds like a generic name for chelating agents, which is how I understand Evaporust works. I like this because it doesn't eat the underlying metal or other materials.

Buying it as a concentrate sounds smart. The cost of shipping anything is out of control. A gallon of distilled water has gone from < $0.90 to $1.40 in the last couple years around here. And this is at big chain stores with shipping and distribution costs as efficient as it gets. It is irrational but somebody likes all that money and isn't giving it back. Where is all that money going? Seriously.

Mike

[Sirrotica]

Originally Posted by VCho455

I've used the battery charger method on fenders and quarter panels. Doing large parts that way is really cost effective compared to other methods. But getting the set up right is key to good results. The other plus is setting it up on a Sunday and pulling the part out the following weekend ready for body work is nice.

I've used electrolysis many times, doesn't harm anything and the water afterwards can be dumped on your lawn without harming a blade of grass. Baking soda, and tap water.

The commercial company, Redi Strip, used electrolysis in their tanks. I was in their facility as well as had a 2nd Gen F body subframe strippped by them with all the rubber bushings still in the suspension. I saw whole car bodies in their tanks with windows, and weatherstripping still on the cars. If it didn't work, how do you make a business using it?

Obviously few people watched the links I posted, each method was videoed and parts were weighed before and after to see if the weights chnaged due to metal removal.

I've also used phosphoric acid to treat rust pocks on the flat body surfaces of a 73 T/A. bought a gallon of it at HD for about $10. If you want to buy the overpriced evaporust, that's fine, but there are more economical ways to accomplish the same job.

I've lived in the rust belt most of my life, and made a living working on cars over 5 decades. I've dealt with a lot of rust, and I grew up with depression era parents, so I don't like to spend money needlessly.

This guy took a rusty 340 mopar block, and dipped it using electrolysis, watch the video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nskX5XjM9dg

At the end of the day it affcts my wallet zero, watch the videos, look at the results, choose your poison.

[61-63]

Yes that worked well on that block.

[Entropy11]

Great info added by everyone here. I’m also a fan of Ospho. Definitely a go-to for me. I sometimes add micro balloons to it so it’s somewhat of a paste, apply it to a surface, then cover it with plastic wrap. I’ll try that with Rust 911 this weekend too. Never thought of that with Evapo.

I agree with you Shiny, the chelating solutions have one nice bonus, the ability to safely pour them down the drain. I love these solutions because I can drop something like a shifter in there and not worry about any of the non-metallic parts and leave it for as long as I like.

[dataway]

Gotta love Project Farm ... been watching him for years, he puts out a lot of info FAST

Personally I want to get me one of those laser rust guns ... just need to save up the $30K

[61-63]

It actually depends upon what you are doing that determines which is best. If it is derusting a complete carburetor evaporust is best. If prepping (pickeling) a bucket of screws and bolts to send out for zinc or cad plating muriatic acid is best. If prepping a car body for primer ospho (phosphoric acid) is best. If derusting an engine block then the electrolysis is best.