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#1
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Aluminum block head studs what are you using
What are you heads using and where did you get the studs? Are you using different studs then you may have used on your iron block ? Tia
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1969 carousel red firebird 455, richmond 5 speed 1964 540 gto 1971 lemans sport convertible 1972 Maverick under slow construction |
#2
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They are not the same. I believe Paul k can get you what's needed
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Be carefull of the feet you step on today.They may be attached to the a$$ you kiss tomorrow. |
#3
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in my research the only thing i have found ''readily available" are edelbrocks. spoke w ARP yesterday, and there are very limited off the shelf options in the lengths and thread sizes required for Hi ports and i would assume tigers as well, that have the recommended bullet nose in the block.
Do MR1A blocks use bullet nose style head studs?
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1969 carousel red firebird 455, richmond 5 speed 1964 540 gto 1971 lemans sport convertible 1972 Maverick under slow construction |
#4
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I got my set from ALLPontiac, they have them custom made by ARP and they ain't cheap. They are longer to get better thread engagement.
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1967 Firechicken, 499", Edl heads, 262/266@0.050" duration and 0.627"/0.643 lift SR cam, 3.90 gear, 28" tire, 3550#. 10.01@134.3 mph with a 1.45 60'. Still WAY under the rollbar rule. |
#5
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You run eheads that’s what I’m
Saying
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1969 carousel red firebird 455, richmond 5 speed 1964 540 gto 1971 lemans sport convertible 1972 Maverick under slow construction |
#6
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Paul K just posted on FB a build he's doing with HP heads, might want to ask him what studs he's using
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#7
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Already went there and it’s an mr1a
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1969 carousel red firebird 455, richmond 5 speed 1964 540 gto 1971 lemans sport convertible 1972 Maverick under slow construction Last edited by mysticmissle; 04-18-2023 at 09:40 AM. |
#8
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I think it depends on the cylinder pressure/HP you are planning to make. On the recent Aluminum AP block I built with high ports, I just used the studs provided by Kauffman. But this was a modest 600 HP build. The provided studs DID NOT take advantage of all the extra thread engagement AP provides in these decks. I had just over .800" thread engagement in the deck. If I remember right, the AP aluminum blocks are tapped 1.25" or possibly 1.50" deep. For a high HP build, some longer studs would be better if you can find some. About all you can do is figure out what lengths you need and start calling vendors to see what may be out there. I see you were concerned about the bullet nose used in some aluminum applications. Depending on what you end up with. If you have long coarse threaded ends, you can make your own bullet nose on the ends. In my case, I didn't want to give up any threads at the bottom, so I set the studs with Locktite 271, high strength in a floating position. Bottom the studs and back out 1/4 turn. Mark the stud on top so you can make sure it doesn't turn when tightening the nuts. You just don't want to distort/tear the deck by bottoming the shank of the stud into the deck surface. You will need some heat to remove them when the time comes. You could burn up allot of time chasing special studs for this application.
Last edited by mgarblik; 04-18-2023 at 09:44 AM. |
The Following User Says Thank You to mgarblik For This Useful Post: | ||
#9
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On my IA-II Iron block I used qty-18 6 5/8" ARP2000 from Outfront Motorsports and cut them down as needed. The other 2 short ones I needed for the RAV heads I found on ebay.
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#10
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If you can’t find the correct dog point studs for an aluminum block you can put a ball bearing in first instead of modifying the stud; maximum thread engagement should be exercised.
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