[slowbird]

Last 3 post by Gach, very helpful. Nice way to get things locked.

[Gach]

I see a number of different stretch gauges listed on Amazon, the ARP 100-9941 Rod Bolt one $280.00 there’s some cheaper ones but don’t know how good they’re.. which one should I get. I don’t want to spend the money twice.

[Gach]

Originally Posted by slowbird

Last 3 post by Gach, very helpful. Nice way to get things locked.

Just trying to inject some humor, lighten up. Hey did you have to resize those Eagle rods.

[Gach]

Originally Posted by slowbird

Last 3 post by Gach, very helpful. Nice way to get things locked.

There I clean them up for you. I think they legitimate questions but then again that’s just my opinion.

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by Gach

Open mouth insert foot, that’s like running around with a grenade with the pin out. The proper way is invest in a stretch gauge, who the hell wants to go though all that.

What are you doing Gach ?

A breaker bar, you know, like a long handled 1/2" ratchet. Except it does not "ratchet".
I probably used a plain Proto 1.2" ratchet I have with a long sliding handle.
But that is how it is done.
These are the actual MOLNAR rod instructions. Read it and learn for the good of this thread and the valuable information in it.
Note the closeup of the last pic. It clearly states the torque you start out with. And then the degrees you turn that bolt, with no torque wrench. (unless you like damaging your tq wrench)
This sort of tightening procedure is how its done all the time today. Torque to yield bolts use the same procedure.
If you really talked to Tom and asked him about tightening his rod bolts he would tell you that torque only is not always accurate.
I am giving good solid info here and letting people know the correct way to get it done without buying a stretch gauge. Most of us have a torque wrench that can go to 30 lbs. And most of us have a breaker bar.
This is not PZ and please do not treat it like its PZ.

I will even give a link to the Lisle torque angle tool I bought. 31 $

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Gach]

Wondering guys here that bought Molnar rods what Method did you use, for tightening/torkeing rods bolts. Did you all invest in a stretch gauge.

[Gach]

I’m telling you dragncar your my go to guy. Hey did you clean up that nick you put in that rod when you were installing them. You know one you sent me a picture of. I think it’ll be ok.

[b-man]

What we’re seeing here is a dispute being transferred over here from another forum.

Thanks for the information, but the back and forth between you guys has become tiresome and quite frankly boring.

Closed.

[b-man]

Open.

There absolutely will be suspensions if I see any more trolling and arguing.

As a moderator I have every right to go through this thread and remove the crap but I’m leaving it all here as it sits as an example of what we don’t want to see here.

Keep your personal beefs out of these forums.

[Dragncar]

Molnar has 2 sets of rods from a "blown up" engines in there shop. One is a BBC engine from a chassis car. The other is from a Sprint Car.
Both engines lost their oil pumps, wet sumps. Castings broke on the pumps.
Both engines simply locked up. No rods broke. Rods and cranks were junk but the rods seized first. So the mains were OK, blocks saved. No broken rods, heads and valves were fine.
Kind of amazing. If you all of a sudden lost all oil pressure you would think something was going to snap.
The BBC lost the pump at 7800RPM at the stripe.
Both engines they had to remove the pan and start removing rod caps to turn the engine enough to get to the converter bolts.

Kind of tells you all you need to know about the quality and strength of Molnar rods.

[PAUL K]

Originally Posted by Dragncar

Molnar has 2 sets of rods from a "blown up" engines in there shop. One is a BBC engine from a chassis car. The other is from a Sprint Car.
Both engines lost their oil pumps, wet sumps. Castings broke on the pumps.
Both engines simply locked up. No rods broke. Rods and cranks were junk but the rods seized first. So the mains were OK, blocks saved. No broken rods, heads and valves were fine.
Kind of amazing. If you all of a sudden lost all oil pressure you would think something was going to snap.
The BBC lost the pump at 7800RPM at the stripe.
Both engines they had to remove the pan and start removing rod caps to turn the engine enough to get to the converter bolts.

Kind of tells you all you need to know about the quality and strength of Molnar rods.

Wow that's amazing.... Makes one think anyone using Molnar rods would be using a Molnar crankshaft..... Are you using a Molnar crankshaft?

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by PAUL K

Wow that's amazing.... Makes one think anyone using Molnar rods would be using a Molnar crankshaft..... Are you using a Molnar crankshaft?

I have 2 Scat 4340 cranks. Got one for 540$ (4.250) And the other I traded Tom V a set of Crower billet rods to get a 4.5 crank. It was from one of the original batches sent to All Pontiac back in the day and that steel was tested.
Both were right on spec.

[PAUL K]

Originally Posted by Dragncar

I have 2 Scat 4340 cranks. Got one for 540$ (4.250) And the other I traded Tom V a set of Crower billet rods to get a 4.5 crank. It was from one of the original batches sent to All Pontiac back in the day and that steel was tested.
Both were right on spec.

Intetesting, so you feel SCAT can make a worthwhile crank but not quality rods?


Anybody else have feedback on Molnar crankshafts?

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by PAUL K

Intetesting, so you feel SCAT can make a worthwhile crank but not quality rods?


Anybody else have feedback on Molnar crankshafts?

Not sure what you mean by that. I think Scat makes good rods. Better reputation than Eagle from Mike Lewis. I would run them on my 461 with good bolts.
I got my first Scat crank a long time ago. Before I even knew much or anything about Molnar.
A trade opportunity showed itself, I took it.
And I get a Scat crank from All Pontiac just over cost because I bought a block from them and I get along Frank well. He gave me a offer I could not refuse.
Offered me a deal so good on a race aluminum block I should have just bought it. So what ?
Besides , we all know the power KK put though a Scat crank. Leech put a thousand through one. A crank is just a hunk of steel. As long as it is straight, on size ect 99.99 % of us can't hurt one.
Whole different deal than a connecting rod. I bought my 2nd set of Molnars from Mike Lewis. He straight up told me if I brought all my parts in and did not buy some from him he would charge me more for labor.
So you do the right thing and buy some stuff from him so he can make his money too. Everyone needs their back scratched. Heck, the conversation and drag race stories was worth it.
Great guy for a racer to hang out with for a afternoon.
You know how it works.

[Gach]

Question.Let me see if understand this, so you bought another set of Molnar rods from Mike Lewis to get cheaper labor now you have 2 sets of Molnar rods.

[Dragncar]

I am getting some close up pics of the threads on my PA rods, Crower rods and PPR rods. I tried but my camera could not get the detail I want.
We have a computer wiz kid genius electrician at work. He is getting me the pics I need.
I could not tell much difference with the naked eye though.

[PAUL K]

Originally Posted by PAUL K

Intetesting, so you feel SCAT can make a worthwhile crank but not quality rods?


Anybody else have feedback on Molnar crankshafts?

Originally Posted by Dragncar

Not sure what you mean by that. I think Scat makes good rods.


.

You implied previously that there is no reason for a Pontiac guy to use anything but a Molnar rod.

So, I was wondering why a Molnar crank wouldn't be recommended along the same lines.... There doesn't seem to be a lot of opinions for the Molnar crankshafts. But bunch of praise for their rods.

I'm curious as to why?

Personally, I think there is a whole bunch more to manufacturing a quality crankshaft compared to a connecting rod.... I disagree it is "just a hunk of steel".

[mgarblik]

Both ELarson and I were going to use Molnar crankshafts in our most recent Pontiac builds. So I didn't have any hesitation using them. I think they look very nice and gave them a careful visual inspection at PRI. I especially like the conventional, but very nicely dressed oil feeds in the crank. Light years better than the Eagle "trench" design they favor. In the end, I repurposed 2 damaged Crower billets we had left over from the funny car days. They both needed repair but were repairable. I tried to sell them for over a year with no bites. Hated to see them just laying around as door stops. Sent both to Mile High Crankshaft in Denver. Dave fixed both of them to like new condition for less than the cost of new forged cranks. Only down side was the re-balance. I had to take just over 200 grams out of each crankshaft. Those Crower Cranks are super hard material. Killed several drill bits balancing those 2 cranks.

[Gach]

Thats what I’m running. Crower biller crank 4.25 stroke. I had bought the Scat steel crank the 4.5 stroke for $600.00. Sold it. Just didn’t want to take a chance on Chinese crank. The power you guys made with funny car is unbelievable.

[Gach]

At the time there was a group buy into Scat cranks. Which turn out to be a nightmare especially when it came to balancing. Having to add weight in the tune of $400.00 more for the balancing. The Crower crank like you say ended up taking weight out. I never like the fact of drilling and adding weight to the counterweights. Plus with 4.5 stroke the pin would’ve ended up in the bottom oil ring.