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#1
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New carpet install - do you recommend sound proofing
I am installing new carpeting soon on my 79 TA floor shift automatic with console-
Do you all recommend sound proofing insulation on the floor before install? Do I really need it as there is no sound proofing underneath old carpet? How about the doors? And how does the new carpeting and door panels fit well on the install over the sound proofing? What have you used as there are many options out there? Thinking of purchasing non formed and cutting myself to fit- how much quantity and what mil thickness, if at all? Let me know your thoughts and experiences? Thanks guys Mark |
#2
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as built these cars all received a tar paper type sound deadener - pretty heavy stuff...
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1970 Formula 400 Carousel Red paint on Black standard interior A no-engine, no-transmission, no-wheel option car. Quite likely one of few '70 Muncie three speed Formula 400's left. 1991 Grand Am: 14.4 @ 93.7mph (DA corrected) (retired DD, stock appearing) 2009 Cobalt SS: 13.9 @ 103mph (current DD; makes something north of 300hp & 350ft/lbs) |
#3
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One of my 78's has the "additional sound insulation" option. I have always been curious what that actually consists of.
guessing its not much. maybe thicker jute?
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68 GTO 4-spd Convertible 78 S/E Trans am L78, WS6 Auto 78 S/E Trans am W72, WS6 Auto 79 10th aniv W72 Trans am 80 Indy pace car Trans am 89 Trans am GTA |
#4
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Of course. It doubles as heat insulation but the tar type takes the tinny rattles out of the car and makes it all sound much more solid. Add the wadding insulation on top and to pack out the floor shape under the carpet.
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#5
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Thanks for your comments and experience,
I haven't pulled the old carpet yet and I believe it is original. Underneath it has the black sheet stuff - must be the "tar type" as mentioned. It looks like almost a rubber sheet. It seems heavy. Should I just reuse the old as it is good shape or do you recommend something else. |
#6
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if you're seeing black, that means the brown paper on the top has come off;
if you can pull it off nicely, the tar stuff has brown paper on both sides. if you're just replacing your carpet because it's worn out, and the factory insulation looks ggod, I'd just leave it and call it a day
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1970 Formula 400 Carousel Red paint on Black standard interior A no-engine, no-transmission, no-wheel option car. Quite likely one of few '70 Muncie three speed Formula 400's left. 1991 Grand Am: 14.4 @ 93.7mph (DA corrected) (retired DD, stock appearing) 2009 Cobalt SS: 13.9 @ 103mph (current DD; makes something north of 300hp & 350ft/lbs) |
#7
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Thanks guys
I am just replacing the carpet and floor is in great shape - no rust - low mileage. I will know more about the insulation condition when I pull the carpet. I wanted to have all related materials here when I pull the carpet to do the new install. |
#8
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I would definitely recommend sound deaden-er if yours ends up being unusable, etc. as I recently replaced mine. The deadener was tore up and had a wicked smell so i cleaned the floors and installed Eastwood X-mat. Amazon now has their own brand which is popular with the car stereo crowd.
Additionally, I searched all around for best price, etc on carpet and actually ordered it on RockAuto. I think the extra money was worth it to get the 'heavy-duty backing'. If you need red, I wrote up a post on another forum that may help you determine correct color at http://www.transamcountry.com/commun...?topic=83921.0 Make sure you take pictures or determine the 'correct' way to install the driver and passenger seat belt holsters; a lot of people cheat and take the easy way out by bolting it on top of the carpet.. Good luck! |
The Following User Says Thank You to MO Olds For This Useful Post: | ||
#9
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Yes, the lazy anchor bolt through the carpet onto the side of the floor is a pet peeve of mine on new carpet. Can't blame people of the previous replaced carpet was also wrong but original carpet would show them how it was when they pulled it apart. Seat track mounting flaps are similar to a lesser extent.
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#10
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When I restored my 77 I was trying to stay as true to factory as possible. My car originally came with the extra sound deadening, and I used the heavy duty stuff form Ames as a replacement. It was about like 10 layers of 30# roofing material. I will say on the 79 I am restoring I am adding as much sound protection everywhere as possible. The 77 with the original type stuff is too loud for me. I want to quiet the ride as much as possible. Although being your car is running and on the road you know what it sounds like so adding only the original type is not going to hurt anything.
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#11
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I used dynomat on my Grand Prix. It made the car much quieter .
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#12
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I used Noyco, then a heat insulation, then padded carpet. Noyco inside the doors, rear seat back, under the rear seat, inside quarter widow space, package shelf, basically every place I could put it. Heat insulation under the headliner, behind the rear seat also, I think the package shelf also (kind of a pain to get the shelf to fit), heat insulation also inside the doors and quarter window cavity. Unfortunately just the stock stuff on the firewall ... too many things that are supposed to fit flush there.
Roll up the windows and it's as quiet as a Rolls. Hopefully the AC will work as well too.
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I'm World's Best Hyperbolist !! |
The Following User Says Thank You to dataway For This Useful Post: | ||
#13
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Thanks all for your help with this- I will be pulling the carpet this weekend, I hope.
I think the front seat belt harness currently bolts through the carpet. Quote:
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#14
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Also on the interior trim black should the sheen of the plastic panels match the sheen of the door panels- I have new door panels that seem to be a less of a Satin sheen finish then the plastic trim pieces.
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#15
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Well, some are coloured black, some are moulded black in plastic, and then there's black vinyl. They should be similar, but they are not the same thing or intended to be, just to compliment each other. The dash vinyl and forward metal panel are flat finish compared to the rest of the cabin, for glare reasons.
Last edited by Trevor78; 12-08-2022 at 07:25 AM. |
#16
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Others may have better photos but here's how the sidesill carpet should look on your 79. The anchor bolt mounts with the carpet pulled back and a small slit in the carpet only for the belt to pass through. The plastic cover top sits on top of carpet when complete, rather than floating in the air when bolted straight through the carpet side.
Carpet and seatbelt1 by Ben, on Flickr Carpet and seatbelt2 by Ben, on Flickr |
#17
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Quote:
Do I slit the carpet over to the door sill or just above the mount location? |
#18
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Originals are often cracked and broken off their mounting, if there at all. Reproduction seat belts do not supply a cover at all. There are two mounting tabs that clip over the steel anchor strap when introduced in 1978. From about 1980, perhaps sooner, they gained a single screw as well. My belts were assembled from 1980 parts hence the screw.
When complete, the carpet slit would be where these belts sit at an angle according to the cover and where it sits on the carpet, but hidden under it. As you can see more clearly in newer pics, the covers are angled. Perhaps the anchor hole can be located through the carpet enough to mock up where it sits on the carpet to mark in chalk where to cut, minimum size so can adjust slightly if needed. Firebird seatbelt outer sleeve 2 260267 LH by Ben, on Flickr Leather seatbelt sleeves saffron tan (12) by Ben, on Flickr They are reproduced, the top is nice, the bottom is crude. Better than nothing. Hurry for your 4c off deal! https://classicta.com/Seat-Belt-Anch...1-_p_6957.html Last edited by Trevor78; 12-08-2022 at 10:08 PM. |
#19
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Thank you for the link - I might have to figure something else out as it looks like the anchor covers may be unattainable. Especially at $100.00 a set.
They look much better though. I also learned that there are tongue covers as well that I need. I am learning more about these cars every day. Thanks guys. |
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