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#1
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Need help for a 1/2 fuel line check valve
Hello,
I'm looking for a good quality check valve to use with my 1/2" fuel line rubber hose setup. Any idea ? I want to do the same thing like in this video of Fast Monthy's Garage but with 1/2 line .. As seen at 10 minutes: https://youtu.be/7-1Mud8DblA Thanks in advance ! |
#2
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DID YOU SEE THE SIZE OF THE HOLE IN THE CHECK VALVE IN THE VIDEO?
Worthless unless you size the parts properly. Buy a check valve with AT LEAST a 5/16" check valve flow opening. Tom V.
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"Engineers do stuff for reasons" Tom Vaught Despite small distractions, there are those who will go Forward, Learning, Sharing Knowledge, Doing what they can to help others move forward. |
#3
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This is intended to allow the engine-driven pump to idle the engine; under "real" use you'd have the electric pump engaged...right???
In that case, even a small check valve would allow enough fuel for no-load engine running. I don't see a need for a bigass check valve. OTOH, I don't see a need for an engine-driven fuel pump at all, if you have a quality electric pump. Therefore, no reason for the check-valve. And don't use those crappy non-shielded worm-gear clamps. They promote hose damage. "Fuel Injection" clamps (among others including shielded worm-gear clamps) are much preferred. |
#4
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My goal is to use this electrical pump for priming the carburetor at startup.
(I need a 1/2" check valve on the 1/2" rubber line to feed my Carter M6907 with enough fuel at WOT) |
#5
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Alright. That's a whole different application than I was envisioning. Yup, you'll need the bigger check-valve.
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#6
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Once you got ALL of the info, thanks for the concurrence on the Check Valve size.
And I totally agree with you about the Worm Gear being the wrong part for any fuel system application. Tom V.
__________________
"Engineers do stuff for reasons" Tom Vaught Despite small distractions, there are those who will go Forward, Learning, Sharing Knowledge, Doing what they can to help others move forward. |
#7
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I’m kind of confused.I run a Carter street pump on the engine with 3/8 hard line from that pump to a pair of 750 AFBs on a tunnel ram.I run a elect in the back with 1/2 in going to the Carter.I have the electric on a switch to run it to prime and when the car is raced.The Carter pulls through theelct,have no check valves or anything else in the run except for a factory type 3/8 in-line fuel filter.No return lines.Never had a fuel starvation issue.FWIW,Tom
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#8
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What kind of electric pump? Only pump that really works okay as a pull thru type pump are the pulsating pumps as the vane or gerotor pumps have too much restriction and the fuel ends up having to spin the electric pump vanes to pull fuel.
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Mick Batson 1967 original owner Tyro Blue/black top 4-speed HO GTO with all the original parts stored safely away -- 1965 2+2 survivor AC auto -- 1965 Catalina Safari Wagon in progress. |
#9
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Mick,been on the car for 25 years,I’m old,will look under the car.For some reason I kind of think a Holley.Tom
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#10
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Mick,it is a Holley,will clean off the cap and get the part number.Maybe Holley blue.Tom
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#11
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Quote:
what. I thought years ago you posted you used a Carter fuel pump. Tom V.
__________________
"Engineers do stuff for reasons" Tom Vaught Despite small distractions, there are those who will go Forward, Learning, Sharing Knowledge, Doing what they can to help others move forward. |
#12
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Somewhere back on a shelf in a dimly lit corner of my garage are a row of Holley Blue's lined up like dead soldiers. Each failed in its own unique way, but most from a leaky shaft seal. Yours did extremely well if it has lasted long enough to collect enough dirt to hide its identity.
__________________
Mick Batson 1967 original owner Tyro Blue/black top 4-speed HO GTO with all the original parts stored safely away -- 1965 2+2 survivor AC auto -- 1965 Catalina Safari Wagon in progress. |
#13
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I use a Carter on the engine.The electric has been on the car since built.Tom
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#14
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The car has not been raced since the POCI show and race in so cal.Just a primer now.Tom
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