[geeteeohguy]

Originally Posted by Hotrodjohn71

Thank you for the input.
Kyle. Yes the reservoirs are the same. I am almost 200% certain I have aquired the correct M/C, and the bleeding has been done in my garage which is very flat.
I took my M/C back to Orilley and got another one (same #). I bench bled it with the tubes going into the reservoir. I bled it with strokes not more than 1" for about 10 mins until no trace of bubbles appeared.
I tapped the M/C. Walked away and came back after a few mins and tried to see if any more bubbles would appear but I could not get any more
I did this with it tilted forward sometimes and tilted back sometimes.
After installing it, I did one thing I had not done before; I had my wife press the pedal while I ctacked the 2 fittings (one at a time) on the M/C while holding a rag up to the fittings.
While she pressed the pedal. I cracked the line(s) but closed them quickly before pedal bottomed out.
I got a good amount of air out of the front port as well as the rear port until after a couple cycles, all that was emerging was fluid.
Next I went to each wheel cylinder and with my wife pushing the pedal, I cracked the bleeder on each wheel and got a little air out of each until all I was getting was fluid.
After all this. I got about a quarter better pedal than.i had before the M/C changeout. So now I have a pedal that goes straight down about half way (instead of 3/4 of the way) before I have braking which quickly applies.
It is now twice as good as before.
So thinking about the possibility of air being in the M/C, but not having time lately to unbolt it from the booster and level it and tickle the bore to possibly cause bubbles to come up, I was in a parking lot with a super steep section.
So the thought occured to me that I might position the back end of the car upwards, causing the M/C to be level then I would just tap the brake pedal, possibly ticking the bubbles up.
So I did this for a long time (engine not running) and when I pushed hard on the pedal to check.progress, I had a great high and hard pedal. This was not booster spring resistance, but a great pedal. The strange thing is that when I rolled off the slant, the brakes went right back to 1/2 travel before application.
So from your advice that it has to be either mechanical over-travel of the hardware, or else air in the system somewhere, all I can think.is that there's still air.
Because I have again removed all of the drums and again inspected all of the hardware, shoe orientation and parking brake cable and system, and finding nothing amis, including all brakes adjusted to cause a drag on.all wheels. And also doing about 20 back-up and brake cycles to set the self adjusters which are all functioning as intended as far as I can check, it might be air.

How about taking 5 minutes to disconnect one outlet line at a time and injecting brake fluid into the outlet port of the MC to get the air out? Easily done 'on car' and would fix your issue in minutes. (If you haven't already pumped a bunch of air downstream to the wheels).