[highrisk]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

That's close enough that I wouldn't worry about it personally.

You'd really have to be taxing the setup to see the limits, meaning sticky tires, sorted suspension, and high rpm clutch dumps on a prepped surface. So unless you plan to drag race the car and get serious about 60 foot times, I'd be just fine with it.

For a fun street car it would be perfect. That Centerforce II was actually the clutch many of my buddies chose back in the day and they had some stout legit 11 second street cars back then. That was when we'd go to the track, uncork headers and bolt on a pair of slicks and then whale on the car. Those clutches always performed fine.

Thanks, it is always good to hear real world experience. I have not been able to find any complaints the CenterForce II feel is too stiff. Everyone comments on how lite it is. I think I will get some miles on it and see if it calms down. If not, it is going in for its third clutch since I built the car.
Dale

[Formulajones]

Originally Posted by highrisk

Thanks, it is always good to hear real world experience. I have not been able to find any complaints the CenterForce II feel is too stiff. Everyone comments on how lite it is. I think I will get some miles on it and see if it calms down. If not, it is going in for its third clutch since I built the car.
Dale

It's very light. In fact my son, after driving his Mustang for a while will jump in the Camaro and comment that it feels like the clutch isn't doing anything LOL. I can push it with my hand. My wife daily drives it and has no complaints, loves the clutch feel and if she's happy, I'm not messing with it

[highrisk]

Originally Posted by i82much

almost any quality street clutch will be fine if you are on street tires and do not go out of your way to destroy the clutch.

Originally Posted by Formulajones

Yep, street tires are the real equalizer

It is strictly a streetcar and only has street tires. I do hammer on it from time to time but the tires break fairly easy. Sonds like the CFII would be a good choice if it doesn't calm down.
Dale

[highrisk]

Originally Posted by Formulajones;

My wife daily drives it and has no complaints, loves the clutch feel and if she's happy, I'm not messing with it

Smart man.

[Tom Vaught]

HAVE A PART NUMBER FOR THE ONE YOU INSTALLED IN YOUR VEHICLE???

Thanks.

Tom V.

[highrisk]

Originally Posted by Tom Vaught

HAVE A PART NUMBER FOR THE ONE YOU INSTALLED IN YOUR VEHICLE???

Thanks.

Tom V.

It is McLeod Racing 6911-07 - McLeod RST Street Twin Clutch Kits.
Dale

[Tom Vaught]

I will try the regular 11" LUK pressure plate and disc first and if I need something else I will look into the McLeod Racing 6911-07 - McLeod RST Street Twin Clutch Kit. Thanks

Tom V.

[highrisk]

Originally Posted by Tom Vaught

I will try the regular 11" LUK pressure plate and disc first and if I need something else I will look into the McLeod Racing 6911-07 - McLeod RST Street Twin Clutch Kit. Thanks

Tom V.

Thanks,
Dale

[djseth]

I have the Centerforce clutch in my TA and she feels and actuates perfectly. I would buy again. My horsepower numbers are similar to yours.

[Richie Hoffman]

Ram replacement clutch work out well use a lot of them

[Hammered]

I had the same problem with an RST and went to the CF DF. I originally went iwth the RST because of the same concerns, but with street tires, it really doesn't matter as others have said. I am very happy with the change.

[1157 motor head]

I have read all the post regarding different clutch manufactures , dual disc single disc, etc... but no one has mentioned a hydraulic clutch to ease the knee and back pain. I'm sure there are some opinions on here about hydraulic clutches... lets hear them.

[Formulajones]

No need for them in my opinion. Had several 4th gen camaros with hydraulic clutches, and honestly the OEM stuff needed some upgrades before they performed how I would expect them to. After that they were okay but to be honest I'm not a huge fan. They are really nice when a slave cylinder decides to go out LOL

On the classic cars the hydraulic clutch just doesn't have a place for me. Besides the fact that with the proper pressure plate and clutch disc setup, along with proper geometry in the clutch linkage, the mechanical clutch can be just as easy and even softer than the hydraulic stuff I've had.

Like I mentioned earlier, the setup I have in our 69 Camaro is so soft I can push it with my hand, and takes literally no effort. My wife daily drives it and she loves the clutch, no complaints. She daily drove the 4th gens too and the mechanical setup on the 69 is easier than the hydraulic stuff she was used to driving.

[Tom Vaught]

64speed may not be the guy to talk to about his issues with hydraulic throw-out bearing clutches. And then again, maybe he can save you some grief down the road.

Tom V.

[highrisk]

Thanks for all of the replies and recommendations. I was able to get the car out the other day and did about 100 miles of town driving where I constantly shifted up and down through the gears. I would imagine the people around me probably thought I was nuts. It must have been some crap on the flywheel from the car sitting because after a few miles the clutch smoothed back out. It still has a slight chatter when you try to do a smooth, slow engagement from a complete stop. I tried someone's recommendation to use a higher RPM from a complete stop and I found if I have the car around 2000 to 2500 when I leave from a complete stop there is no chatter. Right now, the chatter is not bad enough to justify a clutch change. If it starts back up, I will definitely be replacing it with either the CenterForce II or Dual Friction clutch.

All of this got me looking at my car's HP and torque numbers. The engine builder that did all of the machine work for my engine has always told me that he thought that the car made more power than I thought it did. Since he builds race engines for a living, I decided to put all of my engine's information in DeskTop Dyno and see what it said. I was shocked to find out it estimated my engine at 564HP and 615ft/lbs of torque. When I originally was building the engine, I ran the numbers on an older program and it came out with 476HP and 573ft/lbs of torque. The new numbers probably seem more accurate because the car does have a lot of power and takes very little throttle to get the rear to break loose even when moving in a higher gear. During my test drive I made a mistake and had the car in third instead of first when I took off from a stop. I decided what the heck and floored it and it instantly broke the tires loose., in third gear, from a stop.

Thanks again for all of the help.
Dale

[lust4speed]

It's been several years but I was doing an engine install and was provided with a new Center Force pressure plate and disk. I was also getting ready to replace my setup in my GTO and had a McLeod pressure plate and disk on the shelf ready to go. What my visual inspection revealed was my McLeod looked like it had been made with machines from the 50's and had sharp edges from the stamping process that would draw blood. The CF was a better stamping and they had taken the time to smooth the edges down before powder coating. Even the dual friction disk looked to be assembled much better.

This is only a visual comparison and the CF being in a friend's car, I only put a mile or two on it before returning the car. Nothing really sticks out from the test drive so I can't help there, but my McLeod assembly with the dual friction always had a mild chatter in reverse I could never resolve. Never heard any complaints from the CF's owner so guess he is still happy.

Personally, I'm of the age and disposition where I will easily live with a lesser power rated clutch if it doesn't chatter and doesn't take two feet to compress it. On my garage shelf are a bunch of pressure plates and clutches. I've mentioned before that the McLeod 11" dual disk clutch was the greatest on-off switch ever developed, and from there I have continued to work backwards with each new assembly rated lower. Seems that I have enjoyed a better driving experience with each move down the ladder. I'm still a step or two away from getting back to dead stock, but seem to be working my way towards that.

[highrisk]

Originally Posted by lust4speed

It's been several years but I was doing an engine install and was provided with a new Center Force pressure plate and disk. I was also getting ready to replace my setup in my GTO and had a McLeod pressure plate and disk on the shelf ready to go. What my visual inspection revealed was my McLeod looked like it had been made with machines from the 50's and had sharp edges from the stamping process that would draw blood. The CF was a better stamping and they had taken the time to smooth the edges down before powder coating. Even the dual friction disk looked to be assembled much better.

This is only a visual comparison and the CF being in a friend's car, I only put a mile or two on it before returning the car. Nothing really sticks out from the test drive so I can't help there, but my McLeod assembly with the dual friction always had a mild chatter in reverse I could never resolve. Never heard any complaints from the CF's owner so guess he is still happy.

Personally, I'm of the age and disposition where I will easily live with a lesser power rated clutch if it doesn't chatter and doesn't take two feet to compress it. On my garage shelf are a bunch of pressure plates and clutches. I've mentioned before that the McLeod 11" dual disk clutch was the greatest on-off switch ever developed, and from there I have continued to work backwards with each new assembly rated lower. Seems that I have enjoyed a better driving experience with each move down the ladder. I'm still a step or two away from getting back to dead stock, but seem to be working my way towards that.

In reverse is when I get the worst chatter. Sometimes it would hit so hard in reverse I swear I had left the transmission in the driveway. I am glad that has resolved itself and it is back to the mild chatter. If it starts back up, I see a CenterForce in my car's future.
Dale

[Tom Vaught]

Chatter is caused by the "Boiled Off" resin that is on the clutch disc and flywheel surface not. Probably nothing wrong with either part once you remove the resin (using a glass beader machine) that is causing the parts to chatter. And a Cheap Fix $$$ vs a new set of parts, which will do exactly the same thing again.

Tom V.

[64speed]

Originally Posted by Tom Vaught

64speed may not be the guy to talk to about his issues with hydraulic throw-out bearing clutches. And then again, maybe he can save you some grief down the road.

Tom V.

What does that mean? I had my throwout bearing endplay setup by my machinist. Its great