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The Body Shop TECH General questions that don't fit in any other forum |
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#21
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Entropy ... I have one of those Italian ANI R150 trim guns, pretty nice gun, with a 1.0 .. so, suitable for doing small jobs with the SPI epoxy? So far I'm liking the larger more consistent fan shape on the LPH, atomization across the board seems better, still dialing in the pressure. As with most guns I have it still feels like it's a bit slow putting the paint down. Feel like I'm having to work a bit too much to get a wet coat. I had the fluid control out about four turns on the epoxy. Of course it was pretty warm out the day I was using it. |
#22
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The Following User Says Thank You to MUSLCAH For This Useful Post: | ||
#23
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I use an Iwata LPH 400 with a 1.3 tip. I like to run the gun wide open and then adjust the spray pattern for a nice even pattern. I use 30 psi.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Formulajones For This Useful Post: | ||
#24
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So far I've been very happy with it, definitely a step up from the crappy little "Starting Line" mini gun I was using. Seems good for everything from air brush work to almost full panel painting.
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#25
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I also use the ANI 150 with 1.0 tip. Not sure how to equate that size tip with a full size gun (does 1.0 =1.4?) but I’ve sprayed ground effects, spoilers, jambs, side mirrors etc and find there’s no need for a larger tip size than 1.0.
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1968 LeMans conv. 350 HO - 4 speed triple white (hear it idle here) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eVmq...ature=youtu.be 1968 LeMans conv. 350 - 4 speed Solar red/pearl |
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#26
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I’ve seen “conversion” charts somewhere that compared mini/spot guns tip sizes to full-size guns. I don’t think there’s and exact calculation, but some people were speculating the smaller physical size and the resulting increased/different Venturi effect or something. I’m not positive on that though. All I do know is that the spot gun I used felt near identical to full-size (1.0 RP spot vs 1.3 RP full-size SATA, which is more like a non-SATA 1.4).
I’ve honestly never swapped the HVLP 1.0 parts into my SRiPro even once, so I’m not sure how other mini guns behave that aren’t RP or whatever term they use for RP. I like the spot gun I have because I can save a ton of overspray and wasted paint by shooting a small fan size plus the RP savings. Does it really save any money in the end when you factor in 2x the cost just for an RP spot gun vs HVLP, I’m sure no, but I was doing more small stuff in the past and it just made sense. |
The Following User Says Thank You to Entropy11 For This Useful Post: | ||
#27
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Since we're on the subject of paint guns I have a Sharpe gravity feed SGT-HVLP-55 with a 1.4mm I am wondering if anyone has used this gun and if it would be acceptable to use this gun for sealer and primer. Also I would like to get your comments on the Devilbiss FLG-5 with a 1.4mm to shoot sealer, primer, color and clear. Thanks.
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Tim Corcoran |
#28
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Something I'd like to add to this thread is no matter the gun, air compressor, skill set, etc. the best thing you can do BEFORE applying product on your project is to set up a sheet of masking paper(s) on a vertical surface, turn the air cap 90 degrees and check fan pattern, fluid pattern with a 5 second full pull of the trigger. Every gun has it's own characteristics and dialing in the atomization to get the best, most even coverage is critical. This will mean adjustments to air pressure, fan pattern and in most instances I'll adjust fluid all the way open and back in until you feel the back of the trigger get bumped by the adjuster. It will also let you know if you have a potentially dirty gun that needs cleaning if heavy on one side or another. irgoatmike
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#29
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So who's using a Sata 90 for clear?
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#30
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It’s been retired to a primer gun…sometime ago
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