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#21
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i paid 850 labor for a ring and bearing job on my 505 a few years ago. just a light hone and reassemble with same pistons.
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#22
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Len Williams is in Eastern central Oklahoma, a bit of a drive from Austin, butNOT for the amount of $$$ saved for absolute high quality work!!!
Someone did post here, recently, that talked to him. He, at that time was having difficulty getting some parts, slowing down his normal build time to a crawl. I don’t know about now though....
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1977 Black Trans Am 180 HP Auto, essentially base model T/A. I'm the original owner, purchased May 7, 1977. Shut it off Shut it off Buddy, I just shut your Prius down... |
#23
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Quote:
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#24
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OP posted once about a completely noncontroversial topic, started a huge discussion with widely varying opinions from people completely speculating about what he actually needs, and has since run away screaming, found himself a nice a Ukrainian bride, and is currently living in Kyrgyzstan. Right now he is researching doing an LS swap and eating goat milk yogurt and potato noodle soup on the back porch of his yurt.
Goodbye and good luck, sir. Say hi to Tatyana for me! |
The Following User Says Thank You to i82much For This Useful Post: | ||
#25
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Of course that doesn't include the cost of purchasing a set of "those" heads LOL The last SBC I did, which everyone says is the cheapest engine to build, set me back over $6,000, closer to $7k. And I already had the block, the crank, the heads, the intake, the carb, the distributor, and the exhaust manifolds. That was 5 years ago and was a flat tappet build. |
#26
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Barney Moravits @ T & P Machine in San Antonio, WAS a good Pontiac engine builder. Built lots of racing engines. Billy Joe Moravits was RU in Stock, at the '78 Tyler IHRA points race, where my wife won the bracket class.
Assuming that Billy Joe probably ran several Barney built engines, over the years, in various classes, at tracks all over Texas. Read that Barney retired. But, if I were you, I'd try to contact either Barney or Billy Joe, & ask them who they'd recommend. Assuming most Pontiac engine builders know the others in their area. You can do a search here for Barney Moravits, & find him mentioned several times. https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...d.php?t=566620 I don't have CURRENT contact info for either guy. https://www.bbb.org/us/tx/san-antoni...hop-0825-20465 This listing shows phone numbers for both guys. Have no idea if the numbers are current. https://clustrmaps.com/person/Moravits-2ateks |
#27
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In most cases that adds around $1500 to the complete build cost.
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1964 Tempest Coupe LS3/4L70E/3.42 1964 Le Mans Convertible 421 HO/TH350/2.56 2002 WS6 Convertible LS1/4L60E/3.23 |
#28
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http://www.northernautoparts.com/part/ek-ek1177b This kit was a little over 800 bucks a month ago. Now look.
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#29
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I just rebuilt the YS 400 engine for my 71 GTO. I assembled the engine myself. I also machined and re-worked the heads myself. So, I was able to save some money doing that. It looks like I have right at $2,200 in everything. This is how I spent the money:
Parts: Main bearings: $85.99, Rod bearings: $61.99, Gasket set: $95.99, Link Belt Timing set: $23.99, Valve Springs: $141.99, Rings: $80.99, Speed Pro forged pistons: $380, Water pump: $63.99, Oil pump: $66.37, Hardened oil pump shaft: $12.99, BOP 1 pc pan gasket: $59.99, Best rope seal: $19.99, Ferrea Stainless valves: $190, ARP Rod bolts: $80.31, Cam/lifters: $167.83. Parts total: $1,532.41 Machine work: Vat, bore, hone, install cam bearings: $250, Deck block: $125, Turn crank: $125, Resize rods, $100, Press on pistons: $40. Machine Shop Total: $640.00 I cleaned and reused the timing cover, valley pan, balancer, oil pan, valve covers, bolts, push rods, retainers, keepers, windage tray, rocker splash shields and rocker arms. You could spend more money by balancing the rotating assembly, line hoaning, head work, and having someone assemble the engine. Plus you could spend a lot more on different parts, such as hydraulic roller camshaft/lifters, forged rods, more expensive pistons, etc. This engine is nothing more than a stock rebuild for a driver. |
#30
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That may or may not happen but it will at least be another 3 years of this crap until we find out. I see more companies going out of business the next couple years if this keeps up. Shame. |
#31
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It cost me twice the amount of $$$ to rebuild a set of Pontiac cylinder heads as it did my 383 small block Chevy engine. And the heads were done 12 years ago. Spent $2800 rebuilding the 389 in my '65 GTO in 1981 and it's still in there running (blueprinted) and I spent $1800 in 1988 on the stock rebuild of my '67 GTO engine. I would think doing a Pontiac today the right way would run parallel to what b-man posted. A lot depends on how good the block and crank are, etc. And heads....don't forget them. new valves, seats, guides, etc. can add up.
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Jeff |
#32
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I will know soon my engine should be ready next week
I know that i increased my bill a little this week when the engine builder said my cam was too small which was correct since i had gotten it when i just was going to rebuild it a a 400 not make it a 461 As far as i was told the price should be around $3500 I supplied almost all of the parts(using E heads) except Main Studs, and head gaskets, now he is adding a Schneider custom roller cam. |
#33
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I paid $23.5K for engine rebuild, bored and stroked, with all new high performance parts. Plus I replaced the 3 speed automatic tranny with a new 5 speed manual tremec. The only thing kept the same was the original engine block.
In hindsight I should had just purchased a whole new crate engine and sold the original engine. But my thinking was a restomod but the more I play around with the car, the more it is becoming a hotrod. Luiz |
#34
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If your wanting to use the stocker parts with simple upgrades like an HFT cam, better than cast pistons ect, 3500.00 is a reasonable dollar figure at my shop. The more upgrades the more you spend.
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Jack Ferris RestoRacing LLC www.restoracing.com Sandy, UT --------------------------------------------------- |
#35
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7K seems a bit out of line for a generic stock refresh on a 400, maybe $4.5K .
I seen stock rebuilds in my area as of last year less then 4K easily but I am not knowing what all s put into them either. Your complete engine stock or near that, refresh, isn't more than $4.5K IMO, about anywhere. Where it adds up when you say bigger cam-cut heads to receive big lift springs, balance rotating assembly, (a Must do) new exhaust seats if you think those are really needed, . A good rebuild w torque plate, line hones, deck block & heads what's really needed etc, etc, I don't see it above that. I Highly advise you rebuild the damper too, 50+ years old rubber in it like all rubber in these cars are suspect and usually crumbling or deteriorating. Cliff Ruggles after I spoke w him on this, suggests stock type timing chains, yet I'm mixed on a decision so I would use the high dollar one Butler sells where you change the vlv/crank to 2 or 4 degree advance moving torque a bit lower. YOU need to bring your engine in directly to a machine shop!! And controlled 100% of what goes on and what pieces go in it, or if specialty shop pis and delivers it YOU still need to control its full schedule and activity!! Get engine rebuild Price BEFORE you commit to this specialty shop or the machine shop. They the specialty shop, have a right to add$$$ to this as this is there livelihood so if they install or pull it that adds into the cost. Else they would be in business, Part of this if they are restoring the car the engine build part may be OK with them you control this but R&R it will cost too and they won't warranty the engine whatsoever either. Its odd in the mind of a specialty shop, to have a shop pull it, you pick / drop off when done and they install it so remember that aspect. 7K is reasonable If they are putting a stroker kit in it and doing head mods to accommodate the extra things like bigger spring perches or pushrod hole elongate etc, as a kit is at least $2.5K yet has other parts in it like slugs/rings, wrist pins etc. BTW have your Rods-wrist pins made into floaters so rods will need bushings. Thats cheap labor. So once done a fresh 400engine with a few minor parts will satisfy wonderfully. And of course the break-in Oil iS essential and filter-oil change in the recommended increments too! Definitely get roller tips rockers and the good ones, SS stamped, from butler with roller pivot I had on my 69 400 were just fine! Last edited by 1969400HO; 12-08-2021 at 04:35 PM. |
#36
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My 400 (406) rebuild with forged pistons/rods, Ultradyne cam, roller rockers and dyno session was $6K. FWIW...403hp/482trq with 3 tube headers and minor tweaking.
Clean Bore/Hone Deck Replace Seats Valve Job Surface Balance Grind Shaft File Rings Install Cam Bearings Install Pistons on Rods Line Hone Assemble ICON Forged Piston Hasting Rings Skat Rods Clevite Rod Bearings Clevite Main Bearings Melling Oil Pump Bullet Cam Bullet Lifters Fel Pro Gaskets Cloyes Timing Chain Comp Retainers LPC Locks Comp Springs LPC Rockers Comp Studs Dura Bond Cam Bearings SBI EX Seats Teflon Seals ARP Head Bolts Ferrea Stainless Steel Valves oil/filter
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1970 GTO (Granada Gold) - 400 / TH400 Last edited by vertigto; 12-08-2021 at 05:37 PM. |
#37
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Quote:
Mike Pearson
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Fort Worth/Dallas TX area 1966 GTO Fontaine Blue 389 CID Carter AFB Muncie 4 speed (orginally an automatic car) |
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