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#1
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pulling engine with long branch manifolds
I'm about to get our 68 firebird out of storage, so I can pull and reseal the engine, the engine has never been out of the car and it still has it's original long branch exhaust manifolds . I don't have the car in front of me, so I'd like to know if it's possible to pull the engine with the manifolds still bolted on?
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#2
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There was a thread on this a few weeks ago (or was it pulling a starter?).
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My Break Away Squad 1969 Fbird (base OHC, 350, 400HO & Sprint Cvt’s - 400HO & TA ht’s) 1969 Custom S 2dr ht 1969 LeMans (2dr & 4dr ht & Cvt) 1969 LeMans Safari wagon 1969 GTO (2 Cvt, 2 ht & Judge ht) 1969 Cat (3 Cvt’s & 2dr ht) 1969 Ventura wagon 2 seat 1969 Exec 4dr post 1969 Bonnie Cvt & 2 wagons 1969 Bonnie Brougham (4dr ht & Cvt) 1969 Grand Prix 2 SJ’s 1969 2+2 2dr ht (Canadian) |
#3
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We don’t do it like that we take them off and install after engine is in car they will come right in from the bottom. With yours never being off the bolts might be a issue. If possible I would remove starter also. On a car like mine that’s been apart before the manifolds will take a half hour to do very easy. Also once your putting it together drop in engine then install starter wire it then the manifold works great.
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The Following User Says Thank You to grandam1979 For This Useful Post: | ||
#4
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I just looked at mine. Driver's side long branch will probably hit the steering box, so could remove that
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#5
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Should be able to remove the starter and have room to slide them out. Never had to pull the steering box..
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#6
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That was me on the starter, I installed a new wiring harness and the car started right up.
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#7
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Quote:
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#8
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Quote:
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#9
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Spray your manifold bolts with Deep Creep, or PB Blaster days before you want to attempt to remove them. Let it set for a day, and spray them again, repeat the process a few days in a row to let the penetrant work at breaking the rust loose. I've also read that you can heat them with a small propane torch and then take a crayon and touch it to the bolt closest to the engine, supposedly it will melt a little of the crayon and literally suck it into the threads of the bolt. I've never done that, but I have heard it works.
When you do start to loosen the bolts, only back them out a little at a time, then tighten them back down half the distance you loosened them. You want to repeat that process over and over, retightening them about half the distance that you've loosened them each time, slow and easy! You can also spray more penetrant on them if you feel it will help. Check out YouTube for some videos on this process, hopefully you can get them out without breaking them. Be sure to use a 6-point socket too, it's less likely to slip or round off the bolt head. Here's one video I feel is a good one. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9PKNCVXvZ6w
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Cholesterol Bad Adrenaline Good Do it till your eyes bug out! Last edited by Sport69; 01-18-2022 at 01:21 PM. |
The Following User Says Thank You to Sport69 For This Useful Post: | ||
#10
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Thanks guys for the tips, I plan on tackling this in the Spring, if I still have the car.
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#11
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400 HO Firebird or RA ?
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#12
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It's a 68 400 HO, 4 speed with added ram air system. The guy I bought it from said the original owner was a GM tech and he THOUGHT the ram air stuff was over the counter, at any rate, it's been on the car a long time. I think the RA is after-market, but I have no way of knowing.
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#13
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you can pull engine with manifolds on
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2008KRE Q16 Winner 2014 atco raceway doorslammer winner 86 grand am tube car 8.95 @152 455 eheads solid flat tappet cam Hoffman Racing building and racing Pontiacs for 35 years |
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