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#21
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Those sizes lust4speed posted are nominal external tubing dimensions not internal -10 is fairly close to the major block passages which I would consider minimal sizing for external plumbing
Also it's a good idea to bump up oil pump pressure when going with a cooler up in front of the radiator to negate pressure loss at the end of the galleries Even with a totally stock system there will be a pressure drop from the filter housing and distributor port, just the way it is in transmission of fluids or electricity Last edited by Formulas; 08-08-2021 at 04:17 PM. |
#22
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I was never happy with my fitting connections into the block adapter so now would be a good time to change them out.
I’d like to see how some of you have plumbed your block adapters, pic would be greatly appreciated. |
#23
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Made my adapter from a rough block of 6061 or 7075 on my drill press took a long time but worth it -10 fittings and 1/2 pipe from memory on the pipe part
Couple raw blocks for illustration . Last edited by Formulas; 12-17-2023 at 10:11 AM. |
#24
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Thousands of years ago, Chevrolet was suggesting MINIMUM 1/2" plumbing for external oil filters. Larger would be better.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Schurkey For This Useful Post: | ||
#25
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Quote:
__________________
Karl |
The Following User Says Thank You to 72LuxuryLeMansLa. For This Useful Post: | ||
#26
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I’m ready to increase to AN12, hopefully I have everything needed for this install (first time AN fittings user).
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#27
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I used this from Butler runs lines straight out to stay away from header for $40 it’s a nice piece.
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#28
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Quote:
2. The tubular elbows are probably OK, but the forged elbows are going to be restrictive. |
#29
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Ok, so they are faux AN12 fittings and the forged elbows are more restrictive than tubular elbows. Now regardless of those facts I still consider this to be an upgrade with a major increase and improvement to oil volume and flow over my current arrangement.
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#30
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I cracked the aluminum adapter that threads into original oil filter housing (grrrrrrr!) and have had no luck searching for a similar one so I can configure the fitings as I had them.
Is the thread size (where the original filter would typically thread on to) 13/16”-18? |
#31
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Those adapters are total crap they crack and also never seal well at the big O'ring plus you can't use 2 elbows,
Those -12 fittings are necked down internally to accommodate that pipe thread size I bet I tried that style system 35 years ago realized I was wasting my time and built my own, you are now paying for your education |
#32
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Do you know where I can get this same style adapter?
Also, can someone confirm the thread size of OEM oil filter housing 13/16”-16 or 3/4”-16? Last edited by Formula jg; 08-31-2021 at 08:10 PM. |
#33
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https://www.fram.com/media/1075/fram...sell-sheet.pdf
that is for the ph25 right? 13/16-16 |
#34
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Thank you.
Looks like Perma Cool still has these available at Summit. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prm-114 |
#35
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FYI- Although the adapter was cracked I installed it with the new 3/4” id. (nominal) lines and fittings and fired it up for a minute just to see the oil pressure difference.
Previously with 3/8” lines, cold start, 12-14 psi drop between OEM filter housing and distributor. Now with 3/4” lines, cold start, 4-5 psi drop between same 2 locations. Wish I would have done this years ago. |
The Following User Says Thank You to Formula jg For This Useful Post: | ||
#36
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That same spin on filter line adapter can still be had and even a bolt on one to replace the stock one from Trans dapt which is now part of the Headman performance group.
__________________
Wernher Von Braun warned before his retirement from NASA back in 1972, that the next world war would be against the ETs! And he was not talking about 1/8 or 1/4 mile ETs! 1) 1940s 100% silver 4 cup tea server set. Two dry rotted 14 x 10 Micky Thompson slicks. 1) un-mailed in gift coupon from a 1972 box of corn flakes. Two pairs of brown leather flip flops, never seen more then 2 mph. Education is what your left with once you forget things! |
#37
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This roll pin partially came out when I was tightening the fitting and I bent it trying to tap it back. I’m not sure what it’s purpose is or how to get it back in the hole now that its bent. Someone please school me on this.
Last edited by Formula jg; 10-01-2021 at 10:23 AM. |
#38
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I would say it's what keeps the swivel head from coming off the fitting.
(letting the fitting swivel instead of being solid) Finding the correct size of the pin may be a problem. Who's fitting is it? Maybe talk to their tech?
__________________
John Wallace - johnta1 Pontiac Power RULES !!! www.wallaceracing.com Winner of Top Class at Pontiac Nationals, 2004 Cordova Winner of Quick 16 At Ames 2004 Pontiac Tripower Nats KRE's MR-1 - 1st 5 second Pontiac block ever! "Every man has a right to his own opinion, but no man has a right to be wrong in his facts." "People demand freedom of speech to make up for the freedom of thought which they avoid." – Socrates |
#39
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Yes, if that pin comes out the fitting will separate and pressurized oil will go everywhere - and that would be just the beginning of the fiasco. That pin was meant to be pressed in permanently (deadheaded in place) and it working out is a manufacturing defect. The complete fitting needs to be replaced because of the future failure potential.
__________________
Mick Batson 1967 original owner Tyro Blue/black top 4-speed HO GTO with all the original parts stored safely away -- 1965 2+2 survivor AC auto -- 1965 Catalina Safari Wagon. |
#40
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Thank you guys for explaining this mystery to me.
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