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#21
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It actually is in the instructions. It got past me as well. But it is there . Wade told me that he was going to change the instructions when i told him that it was vague. Hopefully he will.
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My Half AN Injun..... |
#22
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Thanks for the kind words Charlie. Here are a few tips on questions I get regularly.
Seal choice: If the crank is to remain in the engine the two-piece is the seal to use. The one-piece MUST have the crank removed to fit the seal to the seal groove. If the crank is stock the serrations are nothing to worry about. You may get a drip with a "tip" test or smoke test as the fluid will migrate through the tiny gap but it will not happen beyond that If the crank is an Eagle however, they should be polished and the crank surface checked for size and many are too aggressive. A line hone/bore is a potential issue but can be accommodated with either a two-piece or one-piece seal. The trick is to determine what the crank offset (if any) is. The same is true for a non-line bored block, they can be off from the factory but it is very uncommon to be outside the tolerance we require. We often do this with the two-piece by checking the protrusion and comparing each seal half (block vs cap) It can also be measured with the right tools. We never cut the ends of the two-piece seal these days. If the protrusion is too much we know the seal groove is shallow and we take material off the OD of the seal to compensate. That way the seal ID remains intact to match the crank size and the seal is effectively fit to the groove. This process has been working very well and can be done with either seal type.
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Wade Congdon BOP Engineering Hi-Performance Specialty Parts for Buick, Olds, and Pontiac www.bopengineering.com |
The Following User Says Thank You to Wade Congdon For This Useful Post: | ||
#23
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Wade guided us through a really tough install. During the process of installing billet 4-bolt caps the machine shop got really happy with boring into the block, and we were left with the crank centerline being moved up towards the cam .024" (twenty-four thousandths) and no chain was going to work. We ended up going with the Milodon gear drive which didn't care where the centerline was. Wade went through what we needed to do to shave the top perimeter of the one-piece seal to center it up with the crank. Build was stressful wondering whether we were going to have a good engine or a whining, leaking disaster. Crank was high enough that we had to slightly oval the four through-bolt holes on the timing cover to align the front seal.
No leaks and even the gear drive ended up being totally quiet. Turned out to be a great 496 ci build that no one will ever guess looking or listening to it what hoops we had to jump through. Little larger cam and tighter LSA than I would have went with, but son-in-law says it's perfect and it's his engine. Youtube video of 496 Open header in the video, but he has run it with quiet mufflers and still no whine and absolutely a leak free one piece seal.
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Mick Batson 1967 original owner Tyro Blue/black top 4-speed HO GTO with all the original parts stored safely away -- 1965 2+2 survivor AC auto -- 1965 Catalina Safari Wagon. |
#24
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