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#1
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What fuel lines with EFI fuel tank.
I have a 78 trans am with a fitech efi setup W fuel command center under the hood. The pump just died for the 2nd time so i have decided to put a new efi fuel tank in it. Can i use the existing steel lines or should i be running all new braided fuel lines and get rid of all the steel lines. My steel lines are in good shape and if i dont need all new lines it will save me a few bucks. I dont want to shortcut anything either. I haven’t seen a lot of plumbing info for EFI setups on the TA’s. Thanks for any advice.
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#2
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More than likely the steel lines that you currently have are not large enough (specifically the return line) to flow the necessary amount of fuel required by the setup.
You will need at minimum a 3/8" supply and return line. Most of the return lines from the factory on these cars are actually more of a vapor return that is not designed to pass much actual fluid. Most of the time they are 5/16" and may crimp down smaller in certain places. It's not adequate for returning lots of fuel back to the pump. The net result is that the return line starts to build pressure in the line, which then increases fuel rail pressure as the pressure regulator is unable to cope, then you get an oscillating rich/lean condition that causes surging and stalling of the engine. For long term use without the need to replace lines, going to a properly sized stainless steel hard line is preferred. That said, if the car is not used often, is not driven or stored in lots of inclement weather etc. you can certainly do EFI rated soft line. This kit is cost effective, contains quality parts and is everything you need for the fuel system. https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/p...rod/prd548.htm I have been running that kit on my wife's chevelle now for several years and my Firebird has a piece meal kit of the same type that has been in-service without issue since 2015. Just know that a soft line system will not last as long ultimately as a proper stainless steel hard line system.
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-Jason 1969 Pontiac Firebird |
#3
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Great info thank you i had no idea about the return line causing issues. Will this fuel line pass tech inspection if i want to make a run down the 1/8th mile. The car has never been on the track but we have one opening up in town so i my have to see what the car will do.
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#4
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It's crazy to use hose where metal or OEM-style hard-plastic tubing will suffice. Tubing has a longer service live, costs less, weighs less, and is less permeable than rubber hose. It costs MUCH less than Teflon/PTFE liner hose.
"Hose" should be kept to a minimum--only where needed to allow for engine shake, or to make connections to other components. Last edited by Schurkey; 05-06-2021 at 03:55 PM. |
#5
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-Jason 1969 Pontiac Firebird |
#6
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That said, in most cases going through tech they probably don't care much on a typical 12 or 13 second street car rolling in and likely won't scrutinize a car like that too much. They'll just check a few basics, then limit you to 11.50 if you don't have a roll bar. Some of the faster cars they might take a closer look at. Just depends on the track and what kind of mood they are in. I've been through tech where they checked lug nuts, battery, overflow bottle, opened up the trunk and the spare tire wells looking for nitrous, even had me put the car in gear and try to start it making sure I had a working neutral safety switch, lol. Then other times they don't even ask to open the hood. Just never know but I will say one thing, It's never been consistent. |
#7
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I used Inline Tube 1/2" stainless steel supply and 3/8 return. They are already pre bent and fit right where the original line was. I'm using a Tanks Inc. tank with a Walbro fuel pump and an FITech 1200 Power Adder (which I am about to sell), the point is I have a similar set up as what you are about to do.
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1978 Black & Gold T/A [complete 70 Ram Air III (carb to pan) PQ and 12 bolt], fully loaded, deluxe, WS6, T-Top car - 1972 Formula 455HO Ram Air numbers matching Julep Green - 1971 T/A 455, 320 CFM Eheads, RP cam, Doug's headers, Fuel injection, TKX 5 Spd. 12 Bolt 3.73, 4 wheel disc. All A/C cars |
#8
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#9
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It depends on how far you are regulating it down, how big the pump is that is required to feed the HP you have etc...
If you are running a simple 500hp setup with a carb, and regulating it down to 6-7 psi, you can run a typical 255 LPH pump. In which case you can probably get away with a 3/8 return line. I still generally run a 1/2" return anyway because the cost is the same, and it leaves room to grow later. I tend to like running a bigger pump than required anyway to give some wiggle room that the formulas don't take into account like friction and G forces that affect fuel delivery. Plus most of the pump ratings are free flow anyway. |
#10
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1978 Black & Gold T/A [complete 70 Ram Air III (carb to pan) PQ and 12 bolt], fully loaded, deluxe, WS6, T-Top car - 1972 Formula 455HO Ram Air numbers matching Julep Green - 1971 T/A 455, 320 CFM Eheads, RP cam, Doug's headers, Fuel injection, TKX 5 Spd. 12 Bolt 3.73, 4 wheel disc. All A/C cars |
#11
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I used a combination of 3/8 Copper nickel tubing and Earls Vaporguard hose.
https://www.amazon.com/Brake-Line-Co...0482360&sr=8-3
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71 Formula 433, Splayed cap 400 block, 4" stroke Scat forged crank, 6.8 Eagle rods, custom Autotec pistons. SD 295 KRE D ports, Old faithful hybrid roller, Torker II, Holley Sniper Stealth, Tribal Tubes, TKO 600, 3.73 Eaton posi. |
#12
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#13
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It’s called NiCop, I believe. Most all the parts stores keep it. Very easy to work with. That’s it’s main advantage. Murf Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro |
#14
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I ran 1/2" od AL supply and return lines many years ago. I'm converting to LS engine now. I am thinking about changing it out to SS. Anyone have pics of Inline Tube or other brand pre-made lines installed? |
#15
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Copper Lines would not be allowed on any SCCA type Race car at a club event.
Too soft and too easy to be damaged and a potential fire from the rupture of the line. Tom V.
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"Engineers do stuff for reasons" Tom Vaught Despite small distractions, there are those who will go Forward, Learning, Sharing Knowledge, Doing what they can to help others move forward. |
#16
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That makes sense. This copper fuel line thing has me scratching my head. Engineering choice of materials 101.
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#17
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#18
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The NiCopp or Cunifer brand tubing isn't pure copper, it's a nickel-copper alloy. It's relatively new in the US but has been used for years in Europe for brake lines as well as fuel lines, so it has the ability to handle high pressure. The big advantages over steel are it won't rust, and it's easy to bend and flare. It is DOT approved, if you're going racing I suspect it's probably OK but check with your sanctioning body.
edit: when I say 'relatively' new, it has been available in the US for probably 20 years now; it's just that it's been in use in Europe a lot longer than that. I believe it's OEM on Porsches as well as some other makes, so it's most likely OK for competition use. Last edited by Stuart; 05-09-2021 at 10:32 AM. |
#19
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I’m using nicopp for fuel and brake lines on my Firebird pro-touring project…mostly because I want to bend and flare all the lines myself. I practiced with other materials and found nicopp to be the easiest to work with.
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"If the best Mustang is the Camaro, the best Camaro is actually the Firebird" David Zenlea |
#20
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If I saw it approved in a recent SCCA manual, I would change/amend my post above.
Tom V. This is from some years ago. 4/10/2011 https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...d.php?t=662999 Quoted from Post #5 " DOT APPROVED FOR BRAKE AND GENERAL AUTOMOTIVE APPLICATIONS NiCopp® is a nickel-copper alloy brake tubing that meets SAE Standard J1047 and ISO 4038, meeting all international and U.S. requirements for brake tubing. This alloy is approximately 9.2% nickel, 1.4% iron, 0.8% manganese, and 88.6% copper. Under the UNS system, this alloy is designated as UNS C70600. NiCopp® therefore has the strength and structural integrity of steel lines, but with the added benefit of being much more corrosion resistant. NiCopp® is also easier to bend and form than steel tubing. Nickel-copper, commonly referred to as '90-10 copper', has been used on several European vehicle brake systems since the 1970's, including: Volvo, Audi, Porsche, and Aston Martin. NiCopp® has been used on hydraulic/fluid transfer systems on vehicles where steel lines and tubing are commonly used. This includes brake, fuel and transmission systems. NiCopp® is considered the super-premium brand in brake lines and should be considered where the underbody of the vehicle is subjected to the harshest environments, where the longest life-span for lines is required, and/or where direct OEM replacement is desired. * • NiCopp® Does Not Rust or Corrode • DOT Approved for Hydraulic Brake Systems • Bends 58% Easier than Steel Tubing • Available in Coils of 25' and 100' • Finished Lines Available for Domestic & Import • Black Oxide Fittings 2X Corrosion Resistance NiCopp® lines and tubing meet the following specifications: SAEJ1047 ISO 4038 SAEJ1650 DIN 74234 BS2871 Tom Vaught ps If it will pass the "Gorilla Stomp" test by the Scrutineer/Inspector from the SCCA you are good to go. Have seen many "copper brake lines" fail that test. NiCopp MAY pass that test. " "Gorilla Stomp" test is both feet on the brake pedal (as in a panic stop with lots of force to the pedal and lines generated). Street driving and never in a panic stop might last for years and years. Would you want your wife and kids in the car if you had to do a panic stop and the line failed?????
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"Engineers do stuff for reasons" Tom Vaught Despite small distractions, there are those who will go Forward, Learning, Sharing Knowledge, Doing what they can to help others move forward. Last edited by Tom Vaught; 05-09-2021 at 12:03 PM. |
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