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#1
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Body/paint question
My 68 is getting the last bit of bodywork done before last coat of primer. He wants to know if I want a coating/liner sprayed inside the fenders?
He mentioned bed liner or something to that level but I told him I wanted to get some advice on this. Are you guys just painting the inside (and by inside I don’t mean wheel wells or frames showing in engine bay) but actual backside of the fender. I was thinking a thin undercoating or nothing. |
#2
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I'd be inclined to go with the factory style black on the back side of the fenders.
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Ken '68 GTO - 464 - Ram Air II heads - 236/242 roller - 9.5” TSP converter - Moser 3.55 Truetrac (build thread | walk around) '95 Comp T/A #6 M6 - bone stock (pics) |
The Following User Says Thank You to Verdoro 68 For This Useful Post: | ||
#3
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What was factory style?
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#4
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I don't think bedliner would be a bad thing to put there. I just epoxied mine and misted black. It's not easy to see those areas when it's all put back together but mine looks sorta like 'nothing'. Just a charcoal black/grey speckled. Mainly, you just want to protect it from moisture I would think.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#5
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Kinda depends on whether you care about keeping it 'correct' or not. I'm not a prisoner to that, so I blasted some spray bomb rubberized bedliner in mine 15 years ago and no issues since. It doesn't see a lot of weather, but likely more than most cars on here. If I had to do it again I'd use a 2 part bedliner.
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#6
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Mine isn’t custom and I do like original, but it’s not a big factor for me in an area unseen.
I was curious what others were doing in that area for rust protection. On another note, I have to buy my paint and clear this week. The painter likes ppg and DuPont and he’s doing bc/cc. I also need the clear but he wasn’t specific on that. Any brands preferred there? |
#7
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Usually a painter likes to stay with one line for contamination purposes. I’d let you painter decidez. Personally I always liked PPG best myself.
https://youtu.be/puxjINVBORc This stuff is an amazing product you can do full cars with it and it’s direct to metal isocyanates free.
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Happiness is just a turbocharger away! 960 HP @ 11 psi, 9.70 at 146. Iron heads, iron stock 2 bolt block , stock crank, 9 years haven't even changed a spark plug! selling turbos and turbo related parts since 2005! |
#8
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Will chipping of the paint bother you from stones and/or road debris kicked up?
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1970 GTO (Granada Gold) - 400 / TH400 |
#9
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Quote:
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Jeff |
#10
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The paint stores I called today did not have a book going back to 68 and starlight black or code A was useless in help.
I feel like I had this conversation before so I’ll have to check my old threads but I feel like starlight was the same as tuxedo for Camaro and Raven for Mustang. Is starlight solid jet black or is there any metallic in it? One store I called carried Sikkens brand but no luck on numbers. I called a Sherwin Williams and same thing. My painter prefers ppg or DuPont so I’ll look for those suppliers tomorrow. sherwin was $459 gallon for black but not necessarily for Pontiac. |
#11
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Is the painter leaving it up to you to choose a clear??? That's strange. And you want PPG brand code 9700 for your black, btw. For clears we use PPG DBU 2002 and DCX61 hardener. Expensive, but worth it.
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#12
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I’d use single stage paint ..on a solid color ,like you have. You can still cut and buff it too....and still see yah face in it. Just put 4 good coats down.
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#13
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I don’t really want to spend $800 a gallon like one I checked on. Range was $100-800 so somewhere in between I figure. Will one gallon do 5 coats with a vinyl top? |
#14
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If not, does DuPont? If so, do you know that code for Starlight? |
#15
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It looks like I can get Omni plus 9700 solvent base for $460 gallon. Ppg Clear $417 gallon plus $135 hardener. They have a cheaper clear (Omni) for $140 gallon.
They have a special on Trans star clear with harder for $311 gallon |
#16
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Yes, Deltron Base Coat (DBC). And buy the best high solids clear that you can afford. You want good UV protection to prevent fading, chalking and adhesion problems later. And with a good heavy clear you don't need 5 coats! |
#17
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Is the DBC still 9700?
Thanks for the info. |
#18
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yes
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#19
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Tony, the original Starlight would be the same as Tuxedo or Raven. It was all non-metallic single stage. Very easy to cut and buff, VERY easy to touch up and match, and very, very durable. Metalflake newer blacks can't even come close to the richness of true solid blacks like the originals.
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Jeff |
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#20
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Quote:
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Jimmy M 68 GTO |
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