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#1
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Chrome plating valve covers.
I got a price from Paul's Chrome Plating in Pa. to chrome my valve covers. He quoted my $750.00 for the pair. This price seems outrageous to me. He said because of the edge of the valve where its hard to get the buffer. I can see that there could be more time spent because the edge is angled upward, but WTF $750.00. Anyone else get the valve covers chromed? Who did them and what was the cost?
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#2
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I have had a couple sets of 63 SD covers done and it was expensive but not near that.I think they were about $250 a set.Tom
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#3
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FWIW, our host sells new ones for $109 for 67 and later covers, and $129 for the 66, and earlier style valve covers.
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#4
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Agreed I can buy repop valve covers, but are they an exact match to the originals? I am doing a concourse restoration and putting on repop valve covers seems wrong. Plus the chrome on the repop covers I am sure is nice, but would it be as nice as rechromed valve covers?
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#5
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I had a set done a coup[e of years ago in Georgia by a guy named Jerry Forrester. Seems like that is all he did?
Was $200/ Pair, don't know if he still does them...
__________________
"At no time did we exceed 175 mph.” Dan Gurney's truthful response to his and Brock Yate's winning of the first ever Cannonball Baker Sea-to-Shining Sea... Still have my 1st Firebird 7th Firebird 57 Starchief |
#6
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The rating is good to excellent on those covers.
Speaking from experience back in the day, the OEM covers weren't flawless by any stretch of the imagination. If you're trying to restore to OEM standards, I would imagine that the repops would be sufficient. If you want show chrome, which the OEMs never were, then I guess you're going to have to pay the price. I'm not into bling and correctness, I prefer function over eye candy, but that's just me. I would be a poor candidate for restoring a car to factory correct because having worked on them when these cars were just daily drivers, and used cars I know of the shortcomings they had engineered into them. The exact reason when I restored my 73 T/A, it ended up as a resto mod, function over form. I was able to take that car to SCCA sanctioned autocrosses and win with it consistently, and still be a daily driver, that could never happen with a factory correct 73 T/A. Making sure bolt heads have the correct marks on them, and replacing the grease crayon markings that the factory used, would drive me batty. I'm just not cut out to restore a car to factory correctness. Anyone that has the patience to pour over all these details, is a much better man than I am, just isn't my cup of tea. I want to drive my cars, and the cars that are of that standard can't really be daily drivers. I was just trying to give you an alternative over $750 for chroming your covers. I myself I would never in my lifetime spend that much to have a pair of valve covers chromed, but it's your car, and your money. Good luck to you with whatever avenue you choose. |
#7
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Hey Joe,
Just a thought. I would have a question about the thickness of the metal on these repro covers. Most everything reproduction is made with lesser quality materials than GM used. Possible flexing at the bolt holes may cause oil leaks. Chris
__________________
1) 65 GTO Survivor. 43,440 Original Miles. “Factory” Mayfair Maize Paint with Black Pinstripe, Black Cordova Top, Black Interior, OEM Numbers Matching Powertrain. Purchased from the Lady that bought it new. Baltimore Built (11A). 2) 66 GTO Survivor. “Factory” Cameo Ivory Paint with Red Pinstripe, Red Interior. OEM Numbers Matching Powertrain. Tri-Power (OEM Vacuum Linkage), Automatic "YR" code (1759 Produced). Fremont Built (01B), with the Rare 614 Option. |
#8
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I had mine done in Sept 2017 by Spacecoast Plating & Metal Refinishing in Melbourne, Florida. They charged $280 ($140 ea.) plus a 6% Hazmat surcharge, plus UPS, plus 7% sales tax since I lived in Fla (not sure they collect for out of state).
info@spacecoast-plating.com 321-254-2880 I tried to avoid repro parts as much as possible. I was also told the repro valve covers are nice and cheap to boot. But I still preferred to use my original parts so paid for replating. My set is early '64 prior to the Driver side cover getting the hole at mid year for the possibility of having the Cal emissions set-up. Don't think it cost any less for the plain cover vs. one with a hole since the price was same for the RH cover with the oil fill stack. There was a thread here about the issues I had with valve cover leaks. In the end, I believe the problem was bolts that had worked loose. But I installed the thicker Edelbrock gaskets with longer bolts from Inline Tube and no more leaks. There was a lot of discussion about flattening the bolt holes in the covers. In the end, I gave up trying to flatten them and think it was a waste of time in my case. I risked damaging the chrome trying and regret that I put a hammer to them. Unnecessary IMO. I had my Tripower lids ($150 at $50 ea.) done at the same time along with my Tilt Lever ($35) and Turn Signal Lever ($45). Total bill was $607.88. I built mine as a driver. I think they came out very nice but not sure the finish is as mirror like as you might want on a concours car. You could talk to them to see what they say if you want a mirror finish. It was a lot of money to spend compared to repop stuff but I felt better using the original parts so worked for me. I doubt the chrome on the repops would look better than how mine turned out. And I agree with Chris, I wonder if the repops are as heavy as the originals. If they flex, they aren't. I pounded on mine way too hard for comfort and couldn't make them change shape. JMO. |
#9
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Agreed. Thinner metal is another reason I want to stay away from repop covers.
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#10
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The shop I use does only copper nickle chrome so the Xtra step usually makes him more expensive than other shops that might just use a 2 step process.Tom
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#11
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Is that Vern's Tom?
__________________
Ed 1968 GTO (Thanks Mom) 2006 Silverado 2007 Cadillac SRX 2015 Chevy Express 2024 Cadillac LYRIQ |
#12
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Yes it is.Tom
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#13
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I've had a pair of the repop covers from Ames, they were great. I think they were the same gauge metal, if not just slightly thinner, and the chrome was actually nicer than what was on the car from the factory (read smoother in all of the crevices and edges). Had them on the car for 12 years, installed with a pencil thin coat of RTV on both sides of the gasket, never a leak. I wouldn't hesitate to use them again if they haven't changed.
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"I know just enough to keep me here, but not enough to get me out" |
#14
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Not sure if all companies have the same valve cover, but Inline Tube says their valve covers are the same thickness as GM.
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#15
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Performance Plating in Lenexa, KS does fantastic work (even on salvageable pot metal!) and don't charge outrageous prices.
__________________
The '64 GTO The '65 Chevelle The '69 Chevy Pickup Project The Brazen Orange 2006 GTO Last edited by Rich-Tripower; 12-14-2020 at 12:23 PM. |
#16
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They have been out of business for a while.
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#17
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I had some stuff chromed at Paul’s and not only was it really expensive but it took forever
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#18
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I called Paul's and he told me 14 - 16 weeks to do bumpers. I questioned the time frame and he said he only has 2 people doing the plating. Not a time frame I am willing to wait.
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#19
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Just got a price locally to chrome my 1962 valve covers and the 4bbl air cleaner lid. Price was $750 total. Company didn't break it down per piece.
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#20
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I'm on my 3rd car using the repo 65 valve covers. Never had a leak, and has been posted the plating is better than the original ones. I'm sure the one's Paul's would do would be fantastic, but no way I would pay that to have valve covers replated.
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LEAD, FOLLOW, OR GET THE HE!! OUT OF THE WAY!!! HONEST JERRY'S SPEED AND EQUIPMENT
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