[Mean Green]

Thank you all for your help.

Hopefully, I can find someone to fix the block. Preferably the engine builder that is going to freshen the engine can have it fixed. If not, there is a heavy equipment diesel block repair shop about an hour from me. Maybe they can do it. And then use studs for the outers.

Worst case, I'll use studs on the #2 and #3 main outers and just leave the #4 main as a 2 bolt main.

[Jay S]

I have done a lot of cast iron welding, blocks , heads, exhaust manifolds, and other cast iron projects not related to engines. I do not really see an issue welding that if you find the right shop. They need a furnace to heat the block up to do it right. It isn’t is a high cyclic heat area, I doubt it would crack again.

If you get it reworked and go back together, if your still concerned about strength I designed some main girdles to add some strength to bottom end. This is a old pic of a earlier model I have on my phone. The production versions are a little different, and are designed to be used with 2 or 4 bolt caps and have arch supports on the center 3 caps to truss up the halos and pan rails supports. This is a FWIW, welded properly I do not think you need anything. But it is for 3” mains and the production run is scheduled in 6 weeks.

[Kevspontiacs@aol.com]

Originally Posted by GTOGEORGE

I wouldnt use it, too many things can go wrong that would cost you a lot of money. JMO!


GTO George

How is this worse than using a crank that the snout had snapped off of??

if it is repaired correctly there should be no issues

I also noticed how you're quick to throw this block away but you stayed away from the leaking KRE block thread like it had corona Lol

[GTOGEORGE]

Originally Posted by 535 tall deck

How is this worse than using a crank that the snout had snapped off of??

if it is repaired correctly there should be no issues

I also noticed how you're quick to throw this block away but you stayed away from the leaking KRE block thread like it had corona Lol

Just my opinion.
As for my crank repair.....he, the main man at Moldex told me it would be BETTER then new. I figure he would know. Now the KRE block that was leaking had way more then enough opinions by the time i actually read it and actually i wouldnt now what he should do......id fixed it myself, didn't look like that big of a deal. A leaking block is not close to a cracked/damaged block and besides....why did it break, that should have been the real issue!


GTO George

[mgarblik]

Originally Posted by GTOGEORGE

Just my opinion.
As for my crank repair.....he, the main man at Moldex told me it would be BETTER then new. I figure he would know. Now the KRE block that was leaking had way more then enough opinions by the time i actually read it and actually i wouldnt now what he should do......id fixed it myself, didn't look like that big of a deal. A leaking block is not close to a cracked/damaged block and besides....why did it break, that should have been the real issue!


GTO George

I think if Mean Green puts a bolt through the cap and counts the number of threads showing, he will find 5-6 threads. That would be a bare minimum of a 1/2"-13 bolt bolt for thread engagement. But there is more to the story. Those blocks typically have the first thread .125-.150" down in the hole so the surface doesn't distort too much when you torque. But that may leave only 3-4 threads taking the load. That's why studs that go deep in the block are so much better in that situation.

[GTOGEORGE]

Originally Posted by mgarblik

I think if Mean Green puts a bolt through the cap and counts the number of threads showing, he will find 5-6 threads. That would be a bare minimum of a 1/2"-13 bolt bolt for thread engagement. But there is more to the story. Those blocks typically have the first thread .125-.150" down in the hole so the surface doesn't distort too much when you torque. But that may leave only 3-4 threads taking the load. That's why studs that go deep in the block are so much better in that situation.

1/2” bolt/stud would need at least 1” of threads in a cast iron block minimum to be safe. If someone could weld it and do it correctly with him not making that much power I suppose it could be ok. JMO

GTO George

[GTOGEORGE]

A little FYI the jap junk engines (aluminum) have 1 1/2” of thread engagement in the blocks, some billet blocks have more then that to keep head studs from pulling out under a SH_T load of boost!


GTO George