[track73]

I've been working on this for about a year. I put the guts of a 3.43 1st gear ST-10 into a cast iron case. It made a whinning noise in all gears except 4th. On the advice of a transmission guru I bought a new input and cluster. Now I'm trying to get the .025 clearance on the cluster to case. But, I only can get about. 016-,017. Is the clearance different for a cast iron than an aluminum case? Is there a trick to getting the bushings in after the main shaft is installed? The cluster has to be dropped down to get the gears on the main shaft past the cluster. Any help would be appreciated. I've been working on transmissions on and off for 55 years and this has me baffled.

[John Milner]

I have built a few cast iron case borg warner transmissions and I have never set them up any differently than an aluminum one. I don't think I would worry much about the .017 clearance and just run it as is.

As far as installing the bushings for the cluster gear, I have always installed those and the cluster pin/key before the main shaft goes in. You should be able to put both the mainshaft and input shaft together and work those past the cluster gear. It is much easier with the front input shaft bearing out. After you have the mainshaft and input shaft installed you can then install the front bearing and snap ring.

[track73]

Ok I'll give it a shot. When I put it together last year I dropped the cluster. I hope you are right. I'm waiting for Muncie thrust washers (Not bushings)from 5gear.

[mgarblik]

Originally Posted by John Milner

I have built a few cast iron case borg warner transmissions and I have never set them up any differently than an aluminum one. I don't think I would worry much about the .017 clearance and just run it as is.

As far as installing the bushings for the cluster gear, I have always installed those and the cluster pin/key before the main shaft goes in. You should be able to put both the mainshaft and input shaft together and work those past the cluster gear. It is much easier with the front input shaft bearing out. After you have the mainshaft and input shaft installed you can then install the front bearing and snap ring.

I install the same way. I very carefully slide the 3/4 synchronizer sleeve into 4th gear to help hold it all together. This gives you just enough extra room to slip the assembly past the cluster gear teeth.

["QUICK-SILVER"]

I've got a lower shaft, cut off to cluster length, for stacking rollers and lowering cluster in the case. Fold scotch tape (make a handle) to hold the thrust washer in place. Then slide the real shaft through pushing out the cut off shaft.

Almost too easy

Clay

[geeteeohguy]

I just did this last weekend on the 904 iron case ST 10 with the 3:42 first gear for my '61 Corvette. It is a real PITA. I ended up loading up the counter gear, dropped it into the far right corner of the case, installed both muncie style bushings (kit from Paul at 5Speeds) into the case and held in place with grease. I then installied the mainshaft and gears into the front hub assembly, moving the 3-4 slider forward but not too far forward so the keys stayed put. I then VERY CAREFULLY stood it on it's nose on top of 4 blocks of wood over the scattershield, which was sitting on an ice chest, and moved the counter gear into place. Now the hard part: getting that countershaft in place without losing the needle bearings. I bought a 1" diameter closet rod made out of pine, ground a bevel on one end, sanded and painted it, and used it like a tapered punch to center the countergear with the bushings. Once this was slid in, I installed the countershaft right on top of it, which slowly pushed the wooden pilot shaft out of the front of the case. The taper in the wood shaft worked perfect to center the spacer rings inside the gear between the needle packs. A few gentle blows with the brass hammer, installed the key, and drove it home. Worked just fine, but 100% more difficult than an ST-10 with the 2.41 gearset and smaller diameter gears. This whole deal took a couple of hours, as the keys flew out of the 3rd/4th slider and I lost a front hub needle at the same time and had to 'start over'. Not a job I want to do again anytime soon!! The key for me was using the wooden tapered pilot shaft as a guide to center the needle spacers and the case bushings. No way could I have done the job without it. Forgot to add: and it's important: when I stood the trans on it's nose, I put a small block of wood under the pilot shaft to support it and keep the front hub from falling forward, which would spell disaster.

[track73]

Thanks geeteeohguy, That's what I remember doing last year. It was a total PITA and yes it took a long time. That's why I was asking if there was a better way. I used a one inch dowel but Paul says dummy shafts are for dummies so I figured there was a better way. I used thin plastic wire ties to hold the input onto the 4 gear hub. I looped the ties around the input and second gear, then tied them together to keep the input from separating from the main shaft.

[geeteeohguy]

I watched the video too, and repeated that same 'dummyshaft's are for dummies' line several times to myself....before making a pointed PILOT shaft that I could use simply to self-center the cluster gear needles and bushings. So I'm telling myself that I used a PILOT shaft instead of a dummy shaft. Just don't tell Paul. I called him up when I was about to assemble mine, asking for any trick tips, and the basic reply was 'you need to drop the counter gear and be careful and take your time'.....which translated into 'it's a real PITA', which it was.

[track73]

Ok we got that. Now what is the acceptable clearance between the thrust washers and the counter gear? With the new Muncie washers I can't get the .025" the book says. Is it ok to sand the back of the washers?

[track73]

I'm going to go with the .0135 clearance. I figure it will wear in a couple thou and .007 should be enough for oil to get in to both ends.

[geeteeohguy]

Originally Posted by track73

I'm going to go with the .0135 clearance. I figure it will wear in a couple thou and .007 should be enough for oil to get in to both ends.

You'll be fine, IMO. My countergear has a hole in the shaft for oil to enter. My clearances are about where yours are. My issue was due to the thin gaskets, I have no clearance on my reverse idler gear. It turns, but with some resistance when the tailhousing is bolted up solid. I'm going to run it as-is at this point. It feels like I could use about .004" more clearance. Installing a second tailhousing gasket would make it perfect.

[track73]

Well it's back together. I had a bit of a panic attack when it would seem to lock up when turned by hand. I remembered the Muncie video where Paul took a hammer and knocked a yoke on the tail shaft forward and reverse. It loosened up the brass syncro rings that were stuck on some of the gears.