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#1
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Hung up distributor
I have a 326 Lemans that has the distributor stuck rock solid. I cant get it to budge. I will attempt to put some pressure and maybe some vice grips to help move it. This motor is all original 46k and has never been out of the car. So who knows how the timing was set or when. It runs fine but the timing is around 10-11 where as it should be at 6 degrees, The car is also laking power it is the H.O version for that motor. Any one have any tips for moving that dizzy? I used to use engine puller on hung up ones back in the day...just dont want to kill this one. The goal is to not ruin the thing just loosed it up.
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1973 Firebird Formula 1969 Firebird Convertible |
#2
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I would spray some penetrating oil at the distributor body and engine block and let it set, and keep reapplying. I got a 389 core engine with my car and it too was stuck; that is what I did and it eventually worked, no need to damage it. The distributor should have a square hex on it that you can get a wrench on to provide a little persuasion too.
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#3
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If it is the original dist, body should be cast iron.
Body has probably 'rusted' to the block. Try heating the dist base with an oxy/acet torch. Let it cool & see if has loosened. You could also use a cold chisel on the base flange. If the engine likes 10-12* initial, leave it. |
#4
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Backing up what Geoff said. Many of us prefer to run the initial advance between 12 to 16 degrees. This depends on the maximum advance built into the distributor, and many of the points distributors were lacking in mechanical advance. Just thought I'd mention that it being stuck at 10 degrees might not be a totally bad thing.
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Mick Batson 1967 original owner Tyro Blue/black top 4-speed HO GTO with all the original parts stored safely away -- 1965 2+2 survivor AC auto -- 1965 Catalina Safari Wagon. |
#5
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A little heat then cool/spray with PB.
If you don't have a mini butane gun then just BP for a few hours at the least should work.
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When I die, I want to go peacefully like my grandfather did, in his sleep. Not screaming like the passengers in his car. |
#6
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I'd use some Gibbs Brand. It will keep it from rusting. Read the links. I use it all the time and love it. Far better than WD-40 or PB Blaster that I used before... and still do on occasion. BTW.. I do not sell it.... I only use it.
https://www.seriousdetecting.com/pro...ray-can-set-2/ http://www.roadsters.com/gibbs/
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Gary Get in, ShuT Up, Hang On! Member of the Baltimore Built Brotherhood MY GTO built 4th Week of March 1966 "Crusin' Is Not A Crime" Keep yer stick on the ice. |
#7
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Penetrating oil, patience, and a slide-hammer. If you go easy, you will not damage it. A lot of GM distributors have a set of flats right under the points plate section you can get a wrench on to turn it bit by bit. Do not use vise grips or pliers. I've used a small slide hammer a bunch of times with good results and zero damage. Take your time.
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Jeff |
#8
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I'd try what's being suggested;
granted I have never dealt with a cast iron distributor, but I have had some that were STU-UCK... penetratin oil, patience always prevailed in it coming out without damage.
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1970 Formula 400 Carousel Red paint on Black standard interior A no-engine, no-transmission, no-wheel option car. Quite likely one of few '70 Muncie three speed Formula 400's left. 1991 Grand Am: 14.4 @ 93.7mph (DA corrected) (retired DD, stock appearing) 2009 Cobalt SS: 13.9 @ 103mph (current DD; makes something north of 300hp & 350ft/lbs) |
#9
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I've if you can get the distributor up enough from the block to get some liquid in the hole, carb cleaner will break up the sludge better than oils do.
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