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#1
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1966 4-Speed Bell Crank Measurements
Hello. I'm having some issues with the bell crank on my 1966 2+2 4-speed. I'm 99% certain that my bellcrank arm where the clutch pushrod fastens has been shortened because of headers that were installed (before I owned the car) and this has led to some clutch adjustment issues (not enough travel). I need to know the distance from the outside of the bellcrank center tube to the center of the hole where the clutch pushrod pivot mounts. I'd be forever grateful if someone could supply this measurement from an unmodified part.
I plan to weld on bar stock if I find it has been shortened and re-drill the pivot hole in the correct position. The functional issue I'm seeing is that the clutch doesn't full disengage unless there is no slack in the clutch pushrod assembly. If I try to add free play the transmission becomes hard to shift and reverse grinds. Thanks in advance. |
#2
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That arm has definitely been shortened!
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#3
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1966 4-Speed Bell Crank Measurements
Can anyone throw me a bone here and provide the measurement I need? :-) Don’t make me spend $75 for a new bellcrank. Thanks!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
#4
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I doubt that you can get a big car Z bar for under $200.
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#5
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No one has this measurement? The Parts Place has ‘65 - ‘66 full size bell cranks for around $80. They look like they don’t have the return spring arm, but I could make them work if I had too. I’ll probably just weld on an extension on my way existing arms based on some pics I found and move the hole down 3/4” or so. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
#6
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I measured the arm on my 67 yesterday and I forgot to post it.
I think that it was 2 3/4" from the center of the tube to the center of the hole for the adjustment rod. Good luck with stuff from the Parts Place! It's probably for an A body.
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#7
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Quote:
Thank! I’ll check mine out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
#8
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Quote:
Steve, Thanks for the bellcrank measurement. I found that mine was almost an inch short so I fabricated a 1/4” thick plate to extend it. The car is much more fun to drive now and it shifts smoothly into every gear. I was also able to use the factory adjustment procedure. Currently bolted together, but I will eventually pull it off, weld it, and add a spring hole close to the original location. I did have to do some rounding and smoothing of the bracket to prevent contact with the headers and I could see where the old, uncut bracket had apparently started wearing a groove in one of the pipes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
#9
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Nice!
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