[SIX8YAK]

Well, I've been doing some reading and of course that has lead me down the path of thinking I must have a remote oil filter added to my freshly rebuilt 461. I can't help but believe that having oil stay pure longer is a positive that will lend itself to more assured longevity.

I plan on running synthetic in it as well, leaning towards Amsoil Z-Rod 10w30 or Mobil 1 15w50.

What kit options are there for this and what has to be changed to mount one?

[72LuxuryLeMansLa.]

In 3,2,1

[64speed]

Originally Posted by 72LuxuryLeMansLa.

In 3,2,1

LOL

[Formulas]

Just dont go with the screw on adapter that replaces the oil filter they are extremely hard to get and keep leak free a thick block of aluminum that bolts to the block instead of the original oil filter adapter with the fittings and lines going in the direction you need is best..

Pretty sure you will have to piece together a system and no smaller than -10 AN.

[TedRamAirII]

A remote filter isnt going to make much difference. Only a By-Pass filter will.

[SIX8YAK]

Aaaaargh.

I was looking at remotes and by-pass systems on amsoil and apparently I got side tracked.

I AM looking for a by-pass filter to use with my existing one.

Phew..

[Sirrotica]

Originally Posted by TedRamAirII

A remote filter isnt going to make much difference. Only a By-Pass filter will.

Exactly correct, if you want clean oil a full flow filter remotely mounted isn't going to make any difference at all. The media isn't designed to keep oil clean as the best ones only filter to 20-40 microns, most are in the 40 micron range and larger.

By pass filters on the other hand filter to 1-2 microns, a huge difference in the quality of oil cleanliness. The only way to safely extend oil changes is with a by pass filter as well as keep the oil just as clean as when you poured it in the engine. When the oil filter is doing what it's supposed to do the oil doesn't get dirtier as the car is driven, it stays just as clean as the refinery put it in the bottle.

You mentioned you plan on using Amsoil, Amsoil has fine by pass oil filters on their site, read up on it if you want clean oil and want your engine to last longer.

FWIW, the majority of engine wear is caused by 5-10 micron abrasives, which pass right through any full flow filter.

[steve25]

The best way to plumb the oil lines if the block is still out of the car is to drill and tap the oil send and return holes for 3/4" pipe.

[Sirrotica]

A by pass oil filter typically uses 1/4 ID. inch lines teeing into the OP tap on the oil filter elbow, or taking oil from the plug near the distributor is fine. The oil is metered through a 1/8 inch orifice so quantity is of no consequence with a by pass filter. There is no need when using a by pass filter to have large lines feeding it.

A by pass filter filters about a quart a minute and returns it to the pan and does not oil any internal engine parts directly. Basically you have one portion of the oil system cleaning oil and returning it back to the pan, while the full flow side continues as it was engineered to do supplying oil the internally oiled engine parts and pumping it through the full flow filter. In essence you have two systems operating side by side using the same oil pump.



A very simple to plumb and install system that will keep the oil as clean as when it was shipped by the refinery. Not for just a few miles as unfiltered solids continue to build in concentration as time goes on, it will be analytically clean until you drain it. Never getting a concentration of solids continually being added to because the full flow filter cannot physically remove them (due to media pore size) while the oil is in the engine.

A by pass system will safely add many thousands of miles to the oil in the engine (I typically run oil at least 30,000 miles, 3 years) while reducing the wear internally of engine parts by keeping the oil 20 times cleaner than a full flow filter is capable of doing. I have a 1993 K3500 dually with 270,000 miles on it and my 05 GTO which has 136,000 on it (oil in it now was installed at 106,000 miles 4 years ago).

There is no down side to using a by pass oil filter system, I've been using them on my gas and diesel vehicles since 2011 with excellent results. I highly recommend them. "Change the filter, not the oil".

[lust4speed]

Originally Posted by steve25

The best way to plumb the oil lines if the block is still out of the car is to drill and tap the oil send and return holes for 3/4" pipe.

Steve, 1/2" or 3/4" pipe threads? Stock oil lines in the block are 1/2" diameter and these holes have to be drilled out to 23/32" inch (slightly smaller than 3/4" bit) for the 1/2" pipe tap. The 1/2" NPT internal size is 1/2" and equals the internal passage sizes so there shouldn't be any bottleneck there.

[ponyakr]

If you want a ready to bolt on system, the only one I know of is sold by Nitemare. But it ain't cheap.

http://nitemareperformance.com/oil.html

I bought the parts separately. KRE sells an adapter plate, which bolts to the block, and is tapped for 1/2" pipe thread.

http://www.krepower.com/Pontiac%20Oi...%20Housing.htm

Nitemare also sells their adapter plate separately.

http://nitemareperformance.com/remoteoilblock.html

Moroso sells the part that the filter or filters screw onto.

https://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/23700/10002/-1

You can buy the braided hose & fittings you need from Jegs, Summit, and lots of other places, to locate the filter mount where you want it.

I'm not saying remote is better, just saying that the parts to do it, are available.

[Sirrotica]

Aaaaargh.

I was looking at remotes and by-pass systems on amsoil and apparently I got side tracked.

I AM looking for a by-pass filter to use with my existing one.

Phew..

The OP wants a by pass oil filter, not a remote mounted full flow. He's looking for very high quality oil filtering, not high quantity that only filters to possibly 20 microns (most full flow filters are in the 40 micron range). No need for huge lines with a by pass oil filter as it doesn't feed any internally oiled engine parts.

Desiring the oil to be kept as close to possible to absolutely clean as when it comes out of the refinery isn't a bad strategy. Full flow oil filters cannot physically accomplish this. There is currently a TV commercial for Zerowater water filters, that shows after multiple passes in a Brita filter, there are still solid contaminants in the water. Think of a by pass oil filter as a Zerowater filter, and the Brita filter is equivalent to a full flow oil filter, no matter how many passes the solids are still there. There are only positive benefits to having highly filtered oil circulating through your engine, no downside whatsoever. The oil lasts longer, and so does the engine, tests bare this out, if you research it.

Just think about this for a second, if a full flow filter was removing all the solids, the oil would last exponentially longer than it does and wouldn't need frequent removal and replenishment. We change oil because it's dirty, and has solids in it, that's how a full flow system is designed. Changing the engineering to keep the oil free of solids with a different filter design can only help to keep oil and engines alive longer. The choice the OP made to keep his engine oil free of harmful solids can only assure his investment in a newly refurbished engine will last as long as possible, while keeping his oil free from harmful solids as long as it is being used with better designed oil filter system. It doesn't get dirtier the longer it's in the engine, it stays free of solids. Remember, the Brita filter no matter how many times the water is filtered, it still has solids in it, Zerowater, no solids after one pass, same principle.