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#1
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Fuse block to bulkhead question 1970
I removed the fuse block from the bulkhead connector last night to correct a problem on the back of the block. (It appears that, right from the factory my car was missing the IGN terminal on the front face of the fuse block) Fairly straightforward but awkward because of the location. Removed the two screws (top left and lower right corner) and released the block from the bulkhead clips. The top left screw has a capacitor type device clipped under it which I assume is for radio noise suppression. I noticed when removing this screw (top) that it didn't really "wind out" as I turned it like the lower one did. However as the block was released from the bulkhead connector I was able to easily pull the screw out and go on to my wiring issue.
When I went to reassemble I snapped the block back onto the bulkhead connector, put the screws in and tried draw the unit down tight. The lower screw goes in like a charm. However the upper screw doesn't seem to "catch" properly. It seems springy as l apply downward pressure and appears to draw tight to a point but goes loose again. Given how it came apart I suspect the hole or fastener is slightly stripped. The screw makes contact but the hole is too big to give a good bite when tightening. Given the way the screw came out it was stripped or at least borderline when I started. My question is what does the screw go into? Does the screw just go into the sheet metal of the bulkhead itself or is there some sort of fastener that it is supposed to catch?Because of tight location and the fact that whatever is there is under the bulkhead connector itself, I can't see what I am working with. Has anyone who has stripped their car down far enough to easily work in this area (dash removal, floor work) any insight or advice as to what I am up against? Obviously I much prefer to have both corners of the assembly anchored down securely. I really don't want to leave it or have to just substitute a different, larger screw or bolt here unless as a last resort. As always, thanks in advance for any help or suggestive comments. Dennis Last edited by 22687; 06-22-2018 at 05:34 PM. |
#2
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The 2 screws go into the fuse block on the other side of the firewall.
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John Wallace - johnta1 Pontiac Power RULES !!! www.wallaceracing.com Winner of Top Class at Pontiac Nationals, 2004 Cordova Winner of Quick 16 At Ames 2004 Pontiac Tripower Nats KRE's MR-1 - 1st 5 second Pontiac block ever! "Every man has a right to his own opinion, but no man has a right to be wrong in his facts." "People demand freedom of speech to make up for the freedom of thought which they avoid." – Socrates |
#3
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Quote:
The fuse box, from inside the car Bolts to the Firewall. Upper screw has the capacitor on it . On the Engine side, The 2 pieces of the harness, the engine, and the lighting, clip together, and a long bolt goes through the middle and bolts them to the fuse box , in the muddle of the fuse box. The OP has a stripped sheet metal thread in the firewall. A temp, or easy fix might be to tape the end of the bolt with electrical tape and re insert it. Tighten it up. The tape should give you some extra interference to make it fairly tight. Good luck ! Last edited by Formulabruce; 06-22-2018 at 11:06 PM. |
#4
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Thanks for the replies guys. Appreciate your time.
Formulabruce. Thanks! pictures are indeed worth a thousand words. Going out and looking I can now clearly see the lower screw exiting the firewall. Unfortunately I would never have found the upper one because of the master cylinder and booster so these help immensely. Now that I know what I am dealing with I can at least think a bit about what my options are. I'll keep your tape idea in mind but maybe there's something a little more permanent. |
#5
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Access would be an issue, but basically, working it with a hammer and dolly will tighten the hole.
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#6
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If the car was apart and I had access, hammer and dolly would be one of several things I might try. Given that the car is together and roadworthy I'm limited to something a little more practical. To R&R the booster assembly just for this seems more like a winter project to me at least.
Here's what I am going to try. I don't know the technical name but, back in the day we called them speed nuts. Because Formulabruce posted the photos so I could see what I'm dealing with and where to look, I can now see where the stripped screw hole is. Looks to be just enough wiggle room for me to get my mitt and the clip in there while a buddy starts the screw from under the dash. The clip should bind against the boss for the bulkhead connector and arch on it should keep the screw tight. Not perfect but is better than driving in a larger screw and it will hold the fuse block secure. Thanks for the suggestions. |
#7
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Looks like a great idea!. I use those on the AC Suitcase where the bolts strip in old fiberglass too at the seam. Being not seen, that fix may last forever !
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#8
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If u have have room then this might be little better to be able to hold while u tighten the screw...but not sure how far the screw actually protrudes through the firewall...just a thought.
__________________
1973 Firebird Navajo Orange w/shaker,1973 400/461,1972 Intake SD CNC'd,1977 Q-Jet 800 CFM w/ Cliffs Kit,Tanks Inc PA4 255 Walbro intank pump ,-8an feed/return,RobbMc Regulator,RobbMc 40 micron filter,253 CFM 6x-8's w/H.S 1:5 Roller Rockers,SD Stump Puller H/R Cam 230/236 @.050 112 lobe separation 565/.570 lift,Crower Solid Rollers,28150 Hedman Headers,3" exhaust,full tailpipes,350 Turbo,9.5" 3200 Converter,3:42 gear,8.5 posi,C/E slide-alinks,Koni adj frt shocks,Best 12.18@110.55 Lookin for 11's |
#9
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Quote:
Really appreciate the the suggestions from everyone who replied. Always good to have other opinions and ideas to work with. |
#10
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Wher u located ?????
__________________
1973 Firebird Navajo Orange w/shaker,1973 400/461,1972 Intake SD CNC'd,1977 Q-Jet 800 CFM w/ Cliffs Kit,Tanks Inc PA4 255 Walbro intank pump ,-8an feed/return,RobbMc Regulator,RobbMc 40 micron filter,253 CFM 6x-8's w/H.S 1:5 Roller Rockers,SD Stump Puller H/R Cam 230/236 @.050 112 lobe separation 565/.570 lift,Crower Solid Rollers,28150 Hedman Headers,3" exhaust,full tailpipes,350 Turbo,9.5" 3200 Converter,3:42 gear,8.5 posi,C/E slide-alinks,Koni adj frt shocks,Best 12.18@110.55 Lookin for 11's |
#11
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Hamilton
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#12
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That's about an hour from here....not far at all...
__________________
1973 Firebird Navajo Orange w/shaker,1973 400/461,1972 Intake SD CNC'd,1977 Q-Jet 800 CFM w/ Cliffs Kit,Tanks Inc PA4 255 Walbro intank pump ,-8an feed/return,RobbMc Regulator,RobbMc 40 micron filter,253 CFM 6x-8's w/H.S 1:5 Roller Rockers,SD Stump Puller H/R Cam 230/236 @.050 112 lobe separation 565/.570 lift,Crower Solid Rollers,28150 Hedman Headers,3" exhaust,full tailpipes,350 Turbo,9.5" 3200 Converter,3:42 gear,8.5 posi,C/E slide-alinks,Koni adj frt shocks,Best 12.18@110.55 Lookin for 11's |
#13
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If you can get close to the enlarged hole...from the engine side...with a long screwdriver.....a couple of taps...or even prying against it....will close it up enough to grab the threads
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