[Skip Fix]

I have a Quick Trick setup similar to the others that mounts to the wheel. Uses greased linoleum or double plastic bags for turn plates. I was disappointed when doing the caster sweeps as the fixture being on the wheel does not stay perpendicular to the ground. Professional units usually float on the portion that measures the angle so the stay correct in relation to the ground.

[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

The unit I use you level the unit with built in level and zero, steer from out to in, relevel and direct read of caster.

[First Bird]

I use Fastrax and the car feels stable, turns well, and tracks straight down the road. Tire wear has been pretty even. It's fun to do things yourself

[bobslilgto]

I have an old Hunter system in my garage with the laser set up. I paid $500. for it used and is great. I also purchased used 2' alignment tables with turn plates and rear slip plates. I use to do alignments for a living and won't let anyone else touch my cars.

[track73]

I have been doing it on my own cars for years. But I did it on stock cars all the time. I use both the string method and the have gauges for the caster and camber. I also have a toe gauge made from 1 inch steel tube that is shaped like a "U". The car must be level to do this and patience is a virtue. Camber and toe is easy the tricky part is caster. But it's not that hard if you have enough experience.

[Young Pontiac Guy]

How do you make the toe gauge with the pipe? Can you describe that?

[track73]

I would take a picture but I'm too lazy too go outside and take it down. So here goes; I took a a piece of 1x1 inch square tubing that was about 6 inches longer than the tread width and welded a 13" piece of the same tubing on each end at 90 degrees, forming what appears to be a "U" with a 72 " bottom. I would measure the tire on the front and back of the tire at outside wall of the tire and see the difference. After making adjustments I would roll the car back and forth to eliminate any errors due to deflection. I would then check it with the string method. To be sure the wheels were straight with the body of the car.

[ho428]

I bought a set of (extremely heavy) Snap On Alignment tables at a swap meet, then picked up a Vintage Snap On Caster-Camber gauge (still in wood box) and then some Longacre Toe plates.
Yeah it's a PITA but kind of fun to DIY on our Vintage cars, but I wouldn't do it on our newer DD's.

[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

Originally Posted by bobslilgto

I use to do alignments for a living and won't let anyone else touch my cars.

Me too, I know what goes on.

It takes me about ~hour with adjustments, depending on the type of suspension adjusters , 20 minutes to just check C/C both sides and toe.

[Formula jg]

Sounds like someone here knows how to convert toe measurement from * degrees to " inches.
More specifically what is the inch equivalent for each of the following:

Toe Left 0.15* (degrees)
Toe Right 0.15* (degrees)
Total Toe 0.30* (degrees)

Thank you for helping out with this.

[bobslilgto]

You usually want 1/8" toe in on everything

[Formula jg]

I'm not even sure if the degrees I listed are toe-in or toe-out.
If I were to guess I'd say toe-out because it's a positive number but what do I know and that's why I'm asking for some help to figure this out from the pros here.

[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

Originally Posted by Young Pontiac Guy

How do you make the toe gauge with the pipe? Can you describe that?

Google “trammel bar”, I don’t do it that way, but many do. You should come up with a vid that correlates to setting toe with that method also.
HTH
😎

[Schurkey]

Originally Posted by STEELCITYFIREBIRD

Me too, I know what goes on.

I've been warning folks about piss-poor alignments for years with a little rhyme. Found out about a week ago that there's a first line to go with my second line.

Camber and Caster I cannot Master, therefore I
Set the toe and let 'er go.

There was a discussion some time ago about alignment shops not providing a "print-out" of the before-and-after alignment angles. Folks don't understand that the angles can be whatever the guy wants them to be...as long as he can pull or push or tug on the vehicle when the angles are being recorded.

Good, ethical alignment guys are more scarce than I'd prefer.

[coonhunter70]

I bought this for myself for Christmas this past year
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lng-78298
Also bought the toe plates and a cheaper set of turn plates (forget the brand).
I had been messing around with different springs plus I had been to a couple different shops and weren't completely satisfied. Now after doing it myself and learning how to do it I like the way my car drives.

[U47]

I have Snap- On gauges for the camber castor and made my own toe gauge. I have two four poster lifts that are dead nut level.
I use about ten 1'X1' squares of cut up heavy duty Hefty trash bags that go under the tires, those trash bags allow me to jounce and settle the suspension after camber adjustments and allow the front wheels to be turned for the 40 degree swings for the caster angle adjustment. These trash bags when cut up are so much easier to use than the ball bearing alignment plates and work just as well or better.
I also string line a car to make sure the axles are in line with the chassis, and to measure the chassis for squareness.

[Blowd]

FWIW I started doing alignments with a bubble gauge in high school shop class. When I was 16 I started running the Hunter "Lite-a-lign" at my cousin's tire shop during the summer. I currently have a decent magnetic bubble gauge (spindle mount) and some harbor freight swivel tables at home. I will sometimes "string" the car for square/thrust angle and toe. Other times I just center and measure. I have an older rotating laser I can use to get everything level before I start. I am comfortable using this equipment on my older personal cars.
My newer GTO goes to a shop that will let me monitor the alignment process and provide my input. I pay extra for being a nuisance, but I need the newer equipment for the thrust angles and such on a IRS car.
My thoughts:
-It takes me longer to do my own and it's a pain in the butt to get set up. I do it for the satisfaction of doing it myself.
-Sixties cars were aligned the way I do it for years, and I feel I know what I'm doing.
- I did not end up working on cars as a career, but have been around the industry enough to know it's hard to find someone to do a proper job even if the shop is reputable. There are always time, cost, and equipment restraints in a retail shop that can impact the results you get.
- Yes, I have a bunch of "stories", I also know there are a bunch of conscientious professionals who bust their butt to do right by their customers in spite of the stories. Doing it yourself is an individual choice, just pay attention.
- I believe that no rocket scientist or brain surgeon was born with their knowledge. Anything can be learned....

[Peter Serio]

On thing to keep in mind which has not yet been mentioned is the specifications for caster and camber out of the shop manuals (All 1950s, 1960s and the "pre-radial tire" early 1970s cars).

The alignment measurements that you need have a lot to do with the type tire you have on your car. Toe-in exempted. The numbers they give you in those old shop manuals which are 1972 and older are for Bias-belted tires. Which were the kind of tires on all GM cars back then. If you are running modern radial tires, as I am, on an older (pre-1973) GM car I would not recommend using the measurements in the shop manual. After I talked to a couple of people who do alignments for a living. For my car (1963 Lemans) I decided to use the specifications out of the shop manual for caster & camber from a 1978 or 1979 GM A body car.
Beginning in 1973 on many and after 1974 on GMs; the cars all came with radial tires. The toe-in is pretty much the same for Bias-belted vs. Radial but modern radial tires prefer the setting(s) for a GM car with that type of tire as original.

[mrennie]

Let's scratch at that a bit...I know I've read other posts where guys recommend settings for radial tires, so might as well talk about that more here.

What's recommended for an A body with radials? What about an F body?

[coonhunter70]

You may get different answers on this but I ended up with about 1.8+castor and about 0 camber on toe go for about dead even to 1/8" toe in