[Hikin Mike]

Looks like I need rear brake shoes for my 69 Firebird running a Ford 9". Currently using bonded. Part stores stock bonded and 50% cheaper then riveted.

What is better?

[mgarblik]

Depending on what you are doing with the car, opinions will vary. IMO, it really doesn't matter much. Here are the differences. Bonded only are cheaper to make, thus the lower price. Riveted come in two varieties. Solid and hollow rivet. Hollow rivet is the best design because as the shoes wear and create dust, the dust can pass through the rivets and out of the drum more easily. It's a minute difference. The riveted linings are also bonded, both types, which is why they cost more. They have to bond them as well as drill them and rivet them. Some people say they are more secure because they are mechanically fastened as well as bonded. Riveted linings don't wear as far because when a rivet hits the drum and starts ruining it, there is still lining left. In the overall scheme of things, it matters little unless driving hard and making lots of heat. Then a riveted set would be my choice. Be sure to look at the edge codes and get a set with a friction rating of at least EE. Higher the letter, the higher the friction rating. FF is better than EE for example.

[Hikin Mike]

Car is a driver only. My days of "racing" are done. Will likely be the last set of shoes I'll need as I don't drive it much.

[Hikin Mike]

Originally Posted by mgarblik

Be sure to look at the edge codes and get a set with a friction rating of at least EE. Higher the letter, the higher the friction rating. FF is better than EE for example.

I'm not seeing any info about the friction rating (Autozone/O'Reily/Napa).

[LeoP]

These cars came with riveted shoes, the choice is yours. The friction rating is printed on the edge of the shoes as posted already. Good luck!

[dataway]

When I was building drum brakes for vintage racing motorcycles I had used both methods over time. Ended up going with bonded eventually, I would prepare the shoes and have a company in the UK do the bonding with whatever compound the customer wanted.

High temp adhesives have come a long way, either method will work fine on the street. Many vintage bike racers wanted bonded since they were running unobtainable 50 year old drum/hubs that had already been turned within an inch of their life and they could not chance any rivet damage.

I've seen riveted shoes get loose after years of use or storage, and I've seen many NOS bonded shoes that have delaminated after years of use or storage. Neither situation would probably apply to you.

Picture of a 1960's Honda 305 drum brake lightened and prepared for racing, along with a set of bonded shoes with a race compound lining.