[MD79TA]

What do I use for my trunk floor on the 68 gto? This is not a show car just want it clean and if I can buy something close to original colors? Hoping I can buy locally. Thanks for any help Doug

[gto4evr]

Black with aqua flecks. local stores might have it. if not, ebay isn't too bad in the cost for having it delivered to your door. save some money and paint the trunk black first, then use this, you can get away with two cans if you use it sparingly

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dupli-Color...IAAOSww-BaYTyu

[SONIC 4 U]

Do not use the aerosol products. It is all water based and will not hold up against any moisture. The parts place sells a great product in a quart that mimics the original texture and is extremely durable. It also is a single stage so no clear coating required. Spend a few extra bucks.


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[dataway]

Sonic .... do you know if the Parts Place product matches Pontiac type paint? I've heard you basically can't get the proper 68 splatter paint that is not water based. Would be great if I could.

[SONIC 4 U]

I think it is the best product available that is ready to use. It matches a lot better than the aerosol products. I have used on several cars and have been extremely happy with the durability and overall look.


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[dataway]

Yep ... just checked their site ... seems to be the real deal. We've been waiting for this stuff for years now. THANKS!

[gto4evr]

Originally Posted by SONIC 4 U

Do not use the aerosol products. It is all water based and will not hold up against any moisture. The parts place sells a great product in a quart that mimics the original texture and is extremely durable. It also is a single stage so no clear coating required. Spend a few extra bucks.


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he made the comment it wasn't a show car and as an economical easy way to paint your trunk, the aerosol cans of the paint do just fine as opposed to spending $70 on a quart you have to screw around setting up and cleaning out a gun and though better than the rattle cans, it still doesn't match the original finish (nothing does) I've used the rattle cans just fine on my cars for 30 years without issue Yes, for extra durability you should clearcoat afterwards (I should have mentioned earlier) but unless he's filling the trunk with water it'll be fine and easy touch ups down the road if needed. oh well, just my opinion, If price and hassle wasn't an object, I'd go with the PP stuff but ease and economy, the cans are fine. but to each their own

[Greg Reid]

I used the aerosol version in mine..been in there 6 or 7 years and has been wet. No issues whatsoever.
I painted with hardware store flat black first, one (maybe two?) can(s) of splatter paint (this one https://www.ebay.com/i/370785467662?chn=ps) and covered it with hardware store Valspar satin clear.
I live in a very dusty area (dirt road) and I've actually washed with a wet soapy rag several times and nothing has degraded...so don't worry about the water based paint as long as you clear it with something decent.

[The Boss]

Priming with black ahead of time like said above is a good tip - finish will be much better.

[dataway]

What about priming with red oxide type primer? I notice the areas in my trunk not factory spattered still show the red oxide primer.

Never did get the water base thing .... most modern water based products are water proof when dry ... just like water based poly, latex, etc. Wonder if the problems were just internet rumor, or a bad batch or something.

[gto4evr]

the reason for the black first is the coverage. Spritzing the spatter over it is just for adding the colored flecks uniformly. if you rely on it to cover the complete surface you end up with using 10 cans of it and a thick rough finish. As far as water, I believe that it's a mixture of oil and water which is what allows it to keep the dots of color floating freely and not just mix into a single color when you shake up the can.

Car looks good Greg, I still can't get used to the finished pics I see, I'm still haunted by memories of the roof rot you had to fix!

[68ragtop]

I can post some pictures. Just did this last year. I used black epoxy primer, then parts place spatter. Biggest thing was getting the application right. I ended up buying a cheap pressurized cup spray gun, & drilled out the fluid tip to a fairly large size, then messed with pressures. I wasted quite a bit of the product before getting it right, then did the trunk. It won;t work worth a crap with a regular spray gun, in fact I'm not so sure it will even go through a regular gun.

I'll post some picts a bit later....

[Greg Reid]

Originally Posted by gto4evr

Car looks good Greg, I still can't get used to the finished pics I see, I'm still haunted by memories of the roof rot you had to fix!

Oh, don't remind me Dennis. The trunk was really the toughest thing I did though. Removing the old one, that is...

[Greg Reid]

dataway, as stated, the black paint just serves as a background for the spatter. You don't have to use the spatter as if you were painting the trunk with it....you're just adding spatter. I used a random like pattern and just made sure I had some flecks pretty much on every area...not every square inch. I'm pretty sure I used one can of spatter to maybe two or three cans of flat black and clear..

[dataway]

I can imagine that if a person is using the stuff in a quart can, better have the ducks all in a row first ... would hate to start spraying and have it no where close to right.

Shame I didn't take just a little bit better care of my trunk for the last 40 years ... I wouldn't need to paint it at all.

[68ragtop]

Here's a few picts. I have to tell you this stuff does NOT photograph very well. First two picts are primer & then spatter paint under shop lights. 3rd & 4th picts are with a camera flash. None of these picts are exactly how they look, it honestly looks much better in person. It is grey/aqua, but looks very white in the picts. But if you look at the flash pictures you can see a little more of the grayish black & blue in the photo's. I really like the way it turned out, but the photos' are not very accurate
I have it very evenly sprayed & it looks more concentrated in the pictures where ever the light is brighter. Its not actually like that & its pretty flat (as in not lumpy) too.

[MD79TA]

I am the original poster. This is pictures of my 68 convertible floor. We ( my son did most if not all work)cut out the only pcs that was rusted thru and replaced and butt welded and ground it smooth. I'm at the point as to what to do next. As you can see it's rusty some pitting but not one hole ( very solid. We are not the best at this but think it came out pretty good for first butt weld. I have a lot of ideas but how would you seal this up and paint to make it look good. I think you can see tank is out. Doug

[dataway]

Next is probably climbing in there with a wire cup brush mounted on an angle grinder. Good quality brush and wear eye protection. Vacuum it good, use some rust converter/remover to take care of any remaining surface rust you can't get to. Then hit it with epoxy primer, then touch up with body filler anywhere it needs it, then some kind of sealer ... then primer, then spatter .... yeah, lots of work.

[68ragtop]

I would add that the parts place spatter really doesn't need to be cleared over imo. never a bad idea of coarse, but when I did my testing I washed my test panels with soap & water, even a light wiping with wax & grease remover & it stayed put.

[MD79TA]

I was thinking could I just paint with silver por 15 I think silver unlike others has a build up property to fill the minor pitting I have. Then I would need to paint over this? I'm told you need to either paint when tacky or scuff up before. I do want it to look presentable but have no intention of a show car , but one that does not rust in trunk again . I would also put a coat of black por 15 on the underside between the tank pad (I have to find one , mine fell off in pcs.) and floor. I'm open to any ideas. Doug