[Glenn Lever]

What happen to "How much HP can you safely pull out of a stock cast iron block?"

I believe stock cast iron block (1970 Ram Air II) is good to 900 with billet caps in the center and front, and the crank (forged nitrated Eagle) can handle the blower to 1 to 1 (8-71 Littlefield new style), based on posts here.

Any other input?

Engine is at the machine shop (Freedom Racing Engines) now to be line bored for the billet caps, and freshened up (new valve springs, gaskets, and if needed rods (aluminum)).

Engine cradle is home built, I now have two and will be looking to sell one in the spring.

Glenn

[Tom Vaught]

Center steel caps and the front steel cap is a very good idea with any belt driven supercharger deal. With the longer/larger dowels installed, and the steel caps, the fretting on the block will be reduced greatly at that 900 to 1000 hp level.

There was some slight fretting on the stock (center 3) 2-bolt main caps (with studs) at the 863 HP level. The steel stuff will be better.

Tom V.

[Glenn Lever]

Originally Posted by Tom Vaught

Center steel caps and the front steel cap is a very good idea with any belt driven supercharger deal. With the longer/larger dowels installed, and the steel caps, the fretting on the block will be reduced greatly at that 900 to 1000 hp level.

There was some slight fretting on the stock (center 3) 2-bolt main caps (with studs) at the 863 HP level. The steel stuff will be better.

Tom V.

Forgot to mention going to ARP studs.

"Fretting is the wearing away of metal between two machined surfaces not designed for movement."

[b-man]

Originally Posted by charlie66

What is the difference between a HO 350 block and a regular one?

The code stamped on the front of the block would be the only difference between an HO block and a regular 2-barrel block.

[charlie66]

Originally Posted by b-man

The code stamped on the front of the block would be the only difference between an HO block and a regular 2-barrel block.

Thank you ...

[Tom Vaught]

Originally Posted by Glenn Lever

Forgot to mention going to ARP studs.

"Fretting is the wearing away of metal between two machined surfaces not designed for movement."

Glenn, the people who machine the IA-2 stuff were impressed when I mentioned that word when talking about the IA-2 steel caps and alignment dowels. They said Bob and Frank's stuff is very good in that area with the registered mains, dowels, GOOD fasteners, and splayed caps. The only thing that you would not have is the registered mains. Are you thinking straight bolt or splayed bolt caps?

Tom V.

[Dragncar]

I looked up a old PM from Craig H, he wrote that the 326 was a 1956 316 bored .060 and was selected because it came out of a GMC armored truck, had a heavy duty block and crank. Ran RAIVs ported by Craig, factory RAIV 1.65 rockers, roller cam designed for the TF cars back then, Isky, stud girdle made by Kern, sbc tunnel ram converted to Pontiac. Shifted @ 8500, 4 speed car with steep gears, never broke a engine part. Said it was a blast to drive.
Glen, it is a mistake to to this build with a 1970 RAIII block. For one, factory 4 bolt means you can not run splayed caps. And it is simply worth too much money as is to tear up. I sold my WS to a member for 2K+. You are far better off using a 2 bolt pre 75 block with no holes drilled or tapped. A few hundred dollar block WITH billet splayed caps would be the way to go. Thats why I sold mine. Money for aftermarket. But none are available so its going to a set of aluminum heads with a ton of money and effort into them. Off one of the "big dogs" engines that stepped up his game.
I have a 67 2 bolt but its .060. Tempted to see it will go past that as they were supposed to have thick walls being the first year of the 400. 66 389s had over heating issues due to thin walls. My moms 66 Cat station wagon finally cracked a cyl wall, sts bore but 200,000+ miles.
I am sure you are well on your way with the RAIII block to turn back now, but the worth of mine is why I did not build it. Kind of wish I still had the WS and the SD 272 CNC 48s but I will end up with something bad *** in the end.
Good luck with it.

[Jack Gifford]

Originally Posted by Glenn Lever

... I believe stock cast iron block (1970 Ram Air II) is good to 900 with billet caps in the center and front, and the crank (forged nitrated Eagle) can handle the blower to 1 to 1 (8-71 Littlefield new style), based on posts here...

I believe you'll be okay with that.

The only other thing I'd try to do (since the engine's apart anyway) is locate a "crank guy" with the knowledge to add center counterweights to your forging. But it wouldn't be easy to find someone. And you'll probably be okay without them.

[Jack Gifford]

Originally Posted by Tom Vaught

... 5) So now you have a upper shell spacer that is positively locked by the lower main cap...

Thanks for pointing that out. For me, as a shadetree machinist, that only leaves one challenge- the rear main. The seal/slinger area plays havoc with designing/creating an appropriate spacer and cap.

[ta man]

Unlike many here,this is my first well built shortblock.I'm well under its capability for horsepower.