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#1
08-13-2016, 11:54 PM
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Distributor Question
My car is strictly a race car. My question is has anyone ever locked the distributor and if so how. Do you have pictures. Or is their a certain distributor that comes out of the box that I don't need to bother with this headache.
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#2
08-14-2016, 06:42 AM
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In regards to a stock distributor it means setting / screwing / welding the Mech advance plate to what you want timing wise and then you can pull out the advance weights and springs.
This is a real pain to do without a distributor machine! You also need to l out the vacuum advance if the Dizzy has such and what you do is to pull / spin the advance plate to the position it would be in if the vacuum advance where pulling on it , and then drill a hole for putting in a sheet metal screw to hold it there. Note that a motor will be much much harder to crank when hot with locked out timing and you likely find a need for a Dizzy kill switch that will allow you to get the motor spinning over before you put voltage to the Dizzy! In short if your dizzy is in good shape and your not turning over 7K rpm I would just confirm with a good timing light that my timing was stable at your shift point and call it a day! Note to all newbie's here, all distributors need to have this mod done if you will not be using the vacuum advance , other wise you will be far more likely to have misfires due to the rotor being off!
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Wernher Von Braun warned before his retirement from NASA back in 1972, that the next world war would be against the ETs! And he was not talking about 1/8 or 1/4 mile ETs! 1) 1940s 100% silver 4 cup tea server set. Two dry rotted 14 x 10 Micky Thompson slicks. 1) un-mailed in gift coupon from a 1972 box of corn flakes. Two pairs of brown leather flip flops, never seen more then 2 mph. Education is what your left with once you forget things! Last edited by steve25; 08-14-2016 at 06:53 AM. |
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#3
08-14-2016, 09:37 AM
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You can also buy the msd distributor that can easily be locked out in about 5 minutes per their instructions or leave the mechanical advance functional.
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74 GTO Bracket/Street car and another 74 for the wifey to race with! 70 GTO 400, 4 spd, #'s matching and a little to nice for me to own. Friendship is like peeing your pants..everyone can see it but only you can feel the warmth! |
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#4
08-14-2016, 03:27 PM
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Mine has the advance slot shortened with brazing rod and the timing "all in" by 2200 RPMs. Not locked out. Vacuum advance is not used.
I run a early iron distributor. They work great. I have yet to find one all worn out. Must have larger bushings and oil better. Found many aluminum units all worn out and they have far less miles on them than the old iron ones. |
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#5
08-14-2016, 06:11 PM
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Quote:
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Come take a ride http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P7Y8Awfk2I0 2008, 2013, 2015, 2016, 2019 Central Il Dragway Mod track champion and 2015 IHRA Div 5 Mod champion 
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#6
08-14-2016, 06:43 PM
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Do you currently have a MSD? If so. I did mine a couple weeks ago. Followed MSDs instructions and it only took me about a half hour. Hardest part was getting the gear off.
Tom Syron |
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#7
08-14-2016, 08:06 PM
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A couple of small TIG welds is all it took.....
Here's the locked factory points distributor that I ran in my bracket car, the points triggered an MSD box.
I think it really helped my car stay consistent by taking one variable out of the equation. 
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1964 Tempest Coupe LS3/4L70E/3.42 1964 Le Mans Convertible 421 HO/TH350/2.56 2002 WS6 Convertible LS1/4L60E/3.23 |
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#8
08-14-2016, 09:06 PM
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Weld advance plate as shown. Lock out vacuum advance (I used adjustable can that I had and adjusted to zero advance). Set timing. Go racing.
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www.hobracing.com |
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#9
08-14-2016, 09:32 PM
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I run a MSD and I just took one spring off, pretty much all in at idle, works great!
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Darby 74 Grandville 2Dr 455 c.i 4550# 2011 1.60 60 ft,7.33@94.55-11.502@117.74  2017, 74 firebird -3600 lbs (all bests) 1.33 60 ft, 6.314@108.39 9.950@134.32 M/T 275/60 ET SS Drag Radial 2023,(Pontiac 505) 1.27 60 ft, 5.97@112.86, 9.48@139.31.... 275/60 Radial Pro's |
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#10
08-14-2016, 10:16 PM
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As b-man shows in his pic, you can leave the vacuum can as is if you would like just do not connect anything to it. It does not matter where you weld the mechanical advance as far as orientation goes as all of your 'adjustment' is done with turning the distorter body for your total timing. This applies to both factory points & HEI units
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1994 Formula 535ci NA CV-1 - single 1050 with c14 - 940hp@7000/825tq@5200 Pontiac Powered 4th Gen Project Progress 
Last edited by WARPed; 08-14-2016 at 10:22 PM. |
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