[RocktimusPryme]

I need someone to help me with which molding clips to buy. I assumed there would be a kit that would just come with all the stuff necessary but not that I can find.

My car is in the body shop while Im deployed. The molding was already removed when I bought the car. Have most of it but not all the clips to install it. Apparently body shops dont like to install the stuff if they werent the ones to take it off. I had to cajole them to do it. But part of the deal was I supply the clips.

http://momentcar.com/images/1967-firebird-1.jpg

This looks like more or less the trim level I have. Im deleting the louver pieces. So i guess just the glass and door moldings?

[gary bennett]

make,year and model would help. try restoration supply in PA.

[RocktimusPryme]

Originally Posted by gary bennett

make,year and model would help. try restoration supply in PA.

Sorry, 1967 Firebird. originally a 326 car, not quite base but not an HO. Now sports a 400 hood. I posted a picture that should accurately represent my cars trim. I dont have the wheel skirts or the wide molding that runs along the bottom on some cars, wheel to wheel

[400 4spd.]

https://secure.amesperf.com/qilan/De...A&web_access=Y

https://secure.amesperf.com/qilan/De...A&web_access=Y

https://secure.amesperf.com/qilan/De...A&web_access=Y

These take care of the front and rear glass moldings. If they have the original two outer clips for the lower front molding, I suggest they re-use them if possible. None of the reproductions are worth a crap. In the pic they are in the lower left corner. Install the front glass moldings while the fenders and cowl panel are off of the car.

And they will need some of these, I suspect. Of course, these go in before the glass.

https://secure.amesperf.com/qilan/De...A&web_access=Y

No way to install them with the glass in. And since it's not a restoration shop, let them know to use a 3/8" ribbon seal to set the glass on so it will be the right height for the trim to fit snug. Otherwise they will probably set it in with urethane and it will look terrible from inside and your outer trim won't fit right. Same with the inner trim.

BTW, the car pictured has no moldings on the doors, only inner and outer window sweeps. The chrome vent frame is cast and has no trim. Hope this helps.

Good luck!


Here is a '68 that we did if they need to call and ask about something.
http://www.barrsrestoration.com/1968...ebird-400.html

[RocktimusPryme]

When I said doors I was speaking about the chrome that runs up the pillar and then down the top of the rear quarter. Not sure what thats actually called? From looking at the peices I have m pretty sure that car has the same mine does. Unfortunately Im on the other side of the world so I cant confirm that.

Also I was going have have the glass done later. I have the original rear glass, but I dont even have a windshield yet. From your statements Im taking it the chrome cant go on before the glass does? Im wondering if it wouldnt be less of a hassle to take it to a straight resto shop afterwards for the trim. They didnt want to do it and were charging me extra for it anyway

[400 4spd.]

That's the drip rail molding, 3 pieces. There are no clips holding that on, just friction. It slips/snaps over the painted drip rail and adds some flash. All of the Firebirds came with that trim. Hard to install and easy to dent. They should start at the base of the front piece and work upward. Then start at the rear with the long piece. Last is the cap that goes in the corner.

[400 4spd.]

One more thing. Two brands of window moldings are on the market and sold by lots of vendors. One brand is very poor quality and made incorrectly where the clip catches the trim. It's also prone to bending easily. If it is getting new trim, make sure it's made by Classic.

[RocktimusPryme]

Originally Posted by 400 4spd.

One more thing. Two brands of window moldings are on the market and sold by lots of vendors. One brand is very poor quality and made incorrectly where the clip catches the trim. It's also prone to bending easily. If it is getting new trim, make sure it's made by Classic.

Im pretty sure I have all the original trim. And in reasonable driver quality shape. I even have some hard plastic/rubber pieces that I think are somehow involved in the rear glass install.

The only aftermarket pieces I bought was the piece that goes in between the door window and rear quarter glass. One was missing and the other side had the weather strip in really bad shape.

[400 4spd.]

The curvature can be a problem with those. I've gotten them from PY and Ames. They tend to be too straight and do not let the seal seat correctly on the door glass. On ours we had to use the originals to get a decent fit.
The black plastic strips that slide into the moldings are to prevent flutter of the trim.

[Toms bird]

Make sure you try mldings before paint and glass. They might have to be bent to fit. Use originals if at all possible. Not all windshield clips are the same, some are to thin and don't hold chrome as well. The whole butyl urethane thing has been discussed before. Personally I wont put one in with butyl but I completely agree with most guys cant make it look good. I do alot of body shop resto work and have for along time. I'll have the guys cut in areas sometimes put glass in leave chrome or belt mldings off then put on after paint is done.

[dhutton]

If you have original window moldings the best clips by far are sold by Steves Camaro Parts. These things work far better than the offshore clips. They are red.

Don