[bkmont]

Hello,
Here are some pics of collision damage to my 68 door hinge pillar. The bottom hinge area is crumpled in about a 1/4". What would be the best approach to to pull this out? I'm thinking this is the first place I need to start for this restoration.




Thanks! Bryan

[rohrt]

I'm thinking a lot of heat with a torch on the crease and big freaking slid hammer. Get it red hot and see if you can pop it back in place. Maybe make a special plate to use all three bolts or use the old hing to pull from.

[A Schab]

Take it to the frame shop.You will probably find that the whole pillar is moved inward a little bit.I'm sure that you can heat and beat things to get the local area pulled out, the the next thing you know is the door won't seal because the pillar is still in.

[rexs73gto]

X2 on the frame shop they have the proper tools & pullers to pull it back in shape where it should be. That way the door will close & seal the way it should.

[bkmont]

Originally Posted by rohrt

I'm thinking a lot of heat with a torch on the crease and big freaking slid hammer. Get it red hot and see if you can pop it back in place. Maybe make a special plate to use all three bolts or use the old hing to pull from.

Originally Posted by A Schab

Take it to the frame shop.You will probably find that the whole pillar is moved inward a little bit.I'm sure that you can heat and beat things to get the local area pulled out, the the next thing you know is the door won't seal because the pillar is still in.

Originally Posted by rexs73gto

X2 on the frame shop they have the proper tools & pullers to pull it back in shape where it should be. That way the door will close & seal the way it should.

rohrt,
That method was something that crossed my mind. Maybe lay a 24" piece of channel iron across the top pillar to use use as a pull point. Drill holes in it and use bolts to screw in to the captured hinge bolts. Tighten bolts to see if I can get metal to move outward. I also thought about drilling two or three holes right at the corner of the pinched area and plug weld the holes up. I didn't think about using heat though.

A Schab and rexs73gto,
You might be right about taking it to a frame shop, I just hate to give up until I know I have exhausted all my problem solving techniques. The inside of the pillar looks to be okay when I measure and compare to the passenger side. I don't see any other damage besides that pinched area. If I can't figure it out, I'll have to find a body shop willing to work on my basket case. Those are far and few between in my town.

Thanks,
Bryan

[Willshire]

It might take a half inch bolt to accomplish it but, using a thick plate (1/2" thick to prevent bending), make sure its long enough to mate against some good structure, drill a hole in it, put a nut on the bolt and thread it up toward the head, weld the end of the bolt to the affected area, and turn the nut toward the plate, keep turning until it pulls the affected area to the original shape. I used this method on a couple of hard to pull dents and it worked like a charm.

[Toms bird]

Can you use a plumb bob or trammel and get some measurements from the other side to get a idea how far out you are and if you could move it that far. Dont you have a hole on the inside where that plate is. How about using the three holes bolted to a plate a come along to the frame hitch on a truck, or porta power from inside if needed. Lots of way to pull damage. It's nice in a perfect world to have perfect tools and exact measurements . Sometimes you have to wing it which might mean putting you door on and off a couple of times to check your fit. I remember when the local Lincoln dealer didn't have a frame machine but had a big tree in the parking lot. I'm not say it was right but thats what they did.

[pfilean]

It's already warped and using heat will add more warping that will be hard to control. Heat is a last resort. Either the frame shop or making up your own pulling equipment is better. Pull over as large an area as you can so you don't add any small distorted areas.
And yeah - I've used the big tree approach sometimes myself. Even a come-along hooked to a trailer hitch. Use what you have that will do the job.

[bkmont]

Guys,
Thanks for all the input. All good stuff. I got a solid week off for the Thanksgiving holidays to figure something out. Hopefully, I can accomplish something in my own shop. I'll keep you posted.
Bryan

[bkmont]

Update - this is how I straightened out the pinched door jamb
- I used a piece of 8" steel channel as a pull point. Long enough to lay against the lower rocker and upper cowl
- Drilled two holes in the channel and two matching holes in the lower jamb next to the pinched metal
- Ran 1/2" bolts through the channel and holes drilled in lower door jamb
- Tightened 1/2" bolts to apply pressure to pull pinched section
- Cut a slot out of the inner panel to slip a piece of 1'x1/2" solid steel stock to use as a punch.
- Continued tightening channel bolts and hammering pinched metal until pinch point returned to factory look
- I'll have to weld up the inner panel, pulling holes and finish out the jamb surface.

The door is now hanging flush to the lower rocker. Before it was in about 1/4"
Before

After

[pfilean]

Looks like you're ready for Class 2 in auto body school.

[bkmont]

Originally Posted by pfilean

Looks like you're ready for Class 2 in auto body school.

Thanks!. I only hit the hand holding the steel punch one time