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  #41  
Old 03-11-2014, 01:29 PM
tarheeltempest tarheeltempest is offline
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What I initially meant was that my car did indeed come out of a barn. I do acknowledge that "barn find" can generally refer to any car found in long term storage: a shed, garage, basement, dry van trailer (I've seen it) or a Quonset hut, etc. My point was that the circumstances for my 65 were legit as I have seen some slick or puffed up sales ads for old cars emphasizing a "barn find" when the ad's accuracy and truthfulness is suspect. The term can be misused.

  #42  
Old 03-11-2014, 01:48 PM
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Keith Seymore Keith Seymore is offline
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We never linked the original thread:

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=746924

K

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  #43  
Old 03-11-2014, 01:53 PM
tarheeltempest tarheeltempest is offline
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Thank you Keith. The link to the original posting would help.

  #44  
Old 03-12-2014, 12:50 PM
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Amazing condition. Plus you have the deluxe seat belts. Exact same interior as my 65. I trust you will be experiencing snow fallout from the old under dash and under seat materials. Keep it original.

  #45  
Old 03-12-2014, 11:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Seymore View Post
We never linked the original thread:

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=746924

K
Actually, I posted it back in post #26...

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  #46  
Old 05-12-2014, 09:33 PM
Baron Von Zeppelin Baron Von Zeppelin is offline
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Hey Tarheel !
been a couple months - gotten anything else done to the Car ?
air in the tires ... new wiper blades
anything ?

  #47  
Old 05-18-2014, 09:43 PM
tarheeltempest tarheeltempest is offline
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Hey BVZ, haven't forgotten everyone, just been busy traveling on my job. Having to pace myself given that my son is still in college and my girlfriend is unemployed. However, I have removed both the windshield and rear glass on the 65 so as to repair some minor rust in the channels, replace reveal clips and to install new butyl 5/16 kits.

I have also been doing my research for sources to rebuild my original water pump, 42 amp TI alternator, and to recite my radiator. I also have purchased all new American made bearings (Timken) and seals (National) as well as a US made Richmond 3:90 ring and pinion to rebuild my ZK coded rear end housing that I sourced.

  #48  
Old 01-28-2016, 12:57 PM
tarheeltempest tarheeltempest is offline
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Slowly making progress on my car. Up on jack stands. Plan to pull engine and transmission for a thorough cleaning including new gaskets and oil pump for the engine and to check internals and new gaskets for the Muncie. Shifter needs cleaning and new grease and pit pack.

Exhaust is shot and will have to be replaced. I was pleasantly surprised to learn that the original mufflers were still intact after 51 years and 73K miles as a daily driver until being parked in 1972. Car was built on 2-17-65 and the mufflers pre-date the build nicely: GM-P, 9781714, RH , W 12-64; and GM-P, 9781715, LH, W 1-65. Having trouble finding these numbers. Were they production line numbers only? Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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  #49  
Old 01-28-2016, 01:02 PM
tarheeltempest tarheeltempest is offline
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Here is the right hand muffler photo. Could only upload one pic at a time.
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  #50  
Old 01-28-2016, 01:08 PM
tarheeltempest tarheeltempest is offline
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Sorry guys. Here's the left hand side.
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  #51  
Old 01-28-2016, 01:10 PM
tarheeltempest tarheeltempest is offline
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Both sides were full of peanuts too!
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  #52  
Old 01-28-2016, 03:21 PM
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Cool story!

  #53  
Old 01-29-2016, 12:17 PM
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My parts book doesn't list those numbers for anything. But then the parts book is replacement numbers which may be different from assembly line numbers. Are the mufflers welded to the pipe at the front? If I remember right my 64 GTO came with mufflers welded to the head pipe. Made it a bitch laying on the ground when I decided I had to have glass packs and made the change myself.

  #54  
Old 01-29-2016, 03:09 PM
tarheeltempest tarheeltempest is offline
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No, they are held in place by regular u-shaped muffler clamps.

  #55  
Old 01-29-2016, 04:38 PM
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tarheel, did you ever get this car running/driving?

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  #56  
Old 01-29-2016, 10:39 PM
riggsjr riggsjr is offline
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Reading the story for the first time. Great story!!!

  #57  
Old 01-29-2016, 11:46 PM
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I still have the factory original mufflers on my 65. I can only see numbers on the right side. The left muffler must have the numbers on the top. The one I could read (right side) is dated 11-64 and have the number of 9781704-P.

  #58  
Old 01-30-2016, 11:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baron Von Zeppelin View Post
I'm glad to learn about the Wide Ratio / 3.90 option factor too.
I knew it was possible in 64 - but didn't know it was possible again in 65 .

fwiw - Bruno runs a Wide Ratio with 3.90 in his modern day 69 Ram4 KillaKar by choice ... so it might be a certain advantage if you're quick-n-slick with 2nd.

Here is a visual specimen of a 3x2 4spd 3.55 with (W) Wide Ratio
This was another Black one - project car with wrong everything drivetrain - that sold on eBay not too long ago. Brought good money
Pontiac plant car - May built

couple of brothers here in town were the street race kings and ALWAYS ran the wide box...for the holeshot advantage. With all due respect...the close box was initially a road race tranny designed for Corvettes and Z-28's to keep the RPM up when downshifting in curves. Also...as mentioned before...my son recently found a Fremont '64 3.90 gear car with the W indicated on the build sheet...no mention of a "9" anywhere and it did come with the M-20...early April car, I believe. Still looking into the many differences on Fremont cars vs. other plants. Any insight greatly appreciated...but also have come to realize that NOTHING involving the mass production of GM cars is cast in stone. Just sayin'...been through this too many times.

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  #59  
Old 01-30-2016, 07:39 PM
tarheeltempest tarheeltempest is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geeteeohguy View Post
tarheel, did you ever get this car running/driving?
Not yet, it's been slow go primarily due to budget constraints. I could have it running by now, but I want to do it right. I have been buying the correct parts, refurbishing parts, and meticulously cleaning the chassis, etc. buying and obtaining as much nod mechanical parts as possible. My plans are to replace only that which is needed mechanically to make it safe to drive and cosmetically basically most of the weather stripping which was dried out and crumbling around the trunk and roof rails. I have also removed and installed new kits for the front windshield and back glass. Unfortunately, I broke the front windshield while trying to remove a screw from on of the reveal clips on the side pillar post. Lesson learned: remove the glass first! Fortunately, I ordered a correct dated coded replacement from Pilkington.

My hopes are to have the car running by summer. So far, my parts scrounging efforts and refurbishing original parts are summarized below:

1) located correct notched 19" fan and correct fan clutch;
2) recored original 4 core Harrison "TT" radiator;
3) Recored original Harrison 12-64 dated heater core;
4) purchased all new brake hoses, wheel cylinders and riveted brake shoes. (Located original semi-metallic cores from the estate;
5) had tri-power set up completely rebuilt with deluxe kits from The Carburetor Shop. Intake hand cleaned, but nothing repainted. Purchased correct AC 193 foam filters;
6) Located an original paint correct "fish tail" water pump. Had it rebuilt in Arizona without repainting;
7) located a correct number NOS manual brake master cylinder and also an NOS Delco Morraine rebuild kit;
8) purchased all NOS exterior "GTO" emblems - all from the late 60s /early 70s GM boxes;
9) Purchased new water pump divider plates;
10) had the complete Transistorized Ignition System - distributor -all rebuilt/ refurbished by Dave Fiedler;
11) located & purchased two NORS GM mufflers - 1965 & 1966;
12) Located and purchased a set (both sides)of NOS rear tail pipe sections with welded in resonators for 4-speed tri-power cars;
13) located an NOS set of Exhaust splitters;
14) located an NOS set of splitter hangers;
15) had original AC 6550 fuel pump rebuilt;
16) Purchased a set of AC 45-S spark plugs (1965 dated box) with correct green rings and copper washers;
17) purchased correctly dated coded spark plug wires, AC Delco distributor cap with copper contacts;
18) new date coded radiator & heater hoses, fan belt, and correct tower clamps for the radiator hoses and pinch clamps for the heater hoses;
19) purchased an NOS gas gauge/float for the gas tank;
20) purchased a new Canadian built galvanized gas tank;
21) purchased new trunk rail and roof rail rubber;
22) purchased correct fuel pump rubber lines and AC fuel filter.

So, I'm getting there.

  #60  
Old 02-03-2016, 12:13 PM
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Thank you for the update, tarheel. You are doing it exactly how I would....preserving the integrity of the car while at the same time making it usable. My hat's off to you, Sir!

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