[10secbird]

I'm trying to find some solid motor mounts for my Pontiac. Who makes them and where can i get them?

Thanks in advance - greg

[stroker461]

I bought mine from Butler and they look good welds are nice. http://butlerperformance.com/product...otorMounts.htm

[60man]

In my opinion they are block destroyers ....
Wonder why Pontiacs have trouble with #2&3 mains so much...
If this a street car I'd chain or strap it down. If race I'd go with a front plat of some kind...such as AllPontiac..
My

[tom s]

Troy,was told the same by Nunzi.Tom

[Dragncar]

Do not run the solid motor mounts. Unless you want problems like 60man wrote. If it is a street car use the Mighty Mounts.
I run them along with "elephant ears" I made. One of the best things I have ever done to my strip only car. Engine stays rock solid.
Front plate if you can make it work.
One of the worst things you can do is run solid mounts with a MSD 2 step. Begging for trouble.
I got this info from Dan Whittmore.

[JSPONT]

Mity mounts are junk too, you need a supplement strap. 1st time out last week broke left side mity mount. I bought the stainless steel urethane with a good interlock system.
By the way, the saftey catch on the mity mount did not work either.
You should take the screw out of the Mity mount, put a bolt and nut the mount.

[PAUL K]

My brother and I have run Indian Adventures solid motor mounts for the last 15 years. Both cars run low nine second quarter mile times @ 140 plus mph weighing well over 3700 lbs., and we've never had any issues.

[60man]

Originally Posted by PAUL K

My brother and I have run Indian Adventures solid motor mounts for the last 15 years. Both cars run low nine second quarter mile times @ 140 plus mph weighing well over 3700 lbs., and we've never had any issues.

Lucky 😎

[BruceWilkie]

Originally Posted by PAUL K

My brother and I have run Indian Adventures solid motor mounts for the last 15 years. Both cars run low nine second quarter mile times @ 140 plus mph weighing well over 3700 lbs., and we've never had any issues.

Stock block???

[lust4speed]

Add me to the lucky list using solid mounts. Long time leaving on the trans brake at 5,500 and haven't seen any problems with number 2 or 3 mains.

But now you have me worried, and I'll be adding a front strap before going out again.

[PAUL K]

Originally Posted by 60man

Lucky 😎

That's one name I have never been called!

[PAUL K]

Originally Posted by BruceWilkie

Stock block???

Yes, 455 blocks.

[stroker461]

Wonder if ill get called lucky LMAO we'll see if I take my block out or not from either the solid mounts or the massive cam hmmmmmmm I wonder LOL

[jlm69]

Originally Posted by Dragncar

Do not run the solid motor mounts. Unless you want problems like 60man wrote. If it is a street car use the Mighty Mounts.
I run them along with "elephant ears" I made. One of the best things I have ever done to my strip only car. Engine stays rock solid.
Front plate if you can make it work.
One of the worst things you can do is run solid mounts with a MSD 2 step. Begging for trouble.
I got this info from Dan Whittmore.

Dragncar,

When you made the "elephant ears", Did you make them from 1/4" steel or Aluminum?
Did you attach them to the heads or to the front of the timing chain cover?
Asking because I'm in the middle of having someone working the chassis on my car. I did buy the solid mounts from Butler, but after reading this I may go a different way. The car is strictly for the track. Stock block.

Thanks, Lou

[Dave Polichena]

Back in the days before these options where available, I just took some flat stock and made mine solid and made a limiter with heims and attached to the head & frame

[Dragncar]

I made my ears out of aluminum. 1/2" x 3" on the passenger side and 3/8"x3" on the driver side. They are mounted to the 3 bolts on the front of the heads. Are about 13" long.
What I did was take a thin piece of cardboard from a Coke 12 pack and cut it 3" by 13". Then trim and fit it to fit on either side so it ended up 1/2" or so above my frame rails on my 69 GTO. I pushed with my fingers the cardboard into the 3 holes on the front of each head and made the round marks. Used a transfer punch to center the 3/8" bolt holes in the aluminum and drilled the holes. Drilled 2 3/8" holes on the bottom frame side of the ears and made a 1/4"x3 1/2" x 1 1/2" steel flat bar stock to match. Bolted them on to each head and the same with the bottom 2 bolts. Tacked the steel to the frame, took off the ears and welded up the steel to the frame. Used 3/32 7018 rod. Easier to get the rod down there than a Mig gun. Used grade 8 bolts and never looked back.
I run pump gas with iron heads. Never had a gasket problem. But, maybe one might with aluminum heads and high CR.

[TCSGTO]

I've run 1 solid mount on 3 different blocks (2 400's 1 455) with a stock rubber drivers side and a rubber trans mount for over 10 years. Jim Butler told me it's ok to do that and running 2 solid mounts can cause block problems.

I don't make near the power most of you do though.

[J.C.you]

If you have to run mounts, use the rubber or poly and use some sort of limiter,... strap, chain, or turnbuckle. With a rigid front sub-frame with j bars one may get away with solid mounts.

Just think if the engine has enough power to rip a rubber mount into during hard acceleration, it has to be trying to pull apart the driver side of the block and compress the passenger side of the block.

[60man]

Not all stock blocks are created equal.

[stroker461]

Im just curious, its probably a stupid question but will hard block help this at all? cuz my block is filled to front water pump holes on front of block, its gunna be a strictly race engine due to the hard block and dont think cam is gunna be to streetable lol