[Ron]

If it is an IA2 block you might want to consider adding eight (8) extra head studs.

The Dirty Bird has this option and the engine my racing partner, Bill Takanabe is building also has 18 head studs. I don't believe the Diry Bird has had any problems with lifting the heads. The Diry Bird has a blower and the engine Bill is building will also use a blower. You might want to also consider what is called a serpentine ring rather than the traditional O ring. It is supposed to give you a better seal between the cylinders on large bores.

[goatracer]

Originally Posted by Ron

If it is an IA2 block you might want to consider adding eight (8) extra head studs.

The Dirty Bird has this option and the engine my racing partner, Bill Takanabe is building also has 18 head studs. I don't believe the Diry Bird has had any problems with lifting the heads. The Diry Bird has a blower and the engine Bill is building will also use a blower. You might want to also consider what is called a serpentine ring rather than the traditional O ring. It is supposed to give you a better seal between the cylinders on large bores.

I talked to Bob C. about borrowing the fixture to add the extra studs a couple months back. That was for my E-heads. Since I'm switching to CV1's, not sure if that pattern will fit the relocated intake ports?

Bryan

[slowbird]

The extra bolts go on the intake side? Do you know where they are located?

[goatracer]

Originally Posted by slowbird

The extra bolts go on the intake side? Do you know where they are located?

Well looking at the top view (valvetrain area ) of an E-head vs the top view ( valvetrain area ) of the canted valve CV1...and while talking to Bob C. he mentioned that the location of some of the additional studs will go thru some of the oil returns...I thought the intake ports and oil returns of the CV1's have been altered? Guess I'll find out soon, Calvin should have my new heads finished pretty soon.

Again, I could be wrong, as I have yet to see a pic of a head with the 18 studs. Anybody got any pics?

Bryan

[Ron]

The Dirty Bird and Bill both use the Tiger Head.

[65nss4spdGTO]

Originally Posted by goatracer

I talked to Bob C. about borrowing the fixture to add the extra studs a couple months back. That was for my E-heads. Since I'm switching to CV1's, not sure if that pattern will fit the relocated intake ports?

Bryan

Bryan,

I recommend we dry deck the block, seal the motor with the current head bolt layout, the CV-1 castings uses the best metallurgy available.

Calvin Hill
Hill Performance
708-250-7420

[goatracer]

Originally Posted by 65nss4spdGTO

Bryan,

I recommend we dry deck the block, seal the motor with the current head bolt layout, the CV-1 castings uses the best metallurgy available.

Calvin Hill
Hill Performance
708-250-7420

Sounds good Calvin...

[cfmcnc]

We will have a NA 541 on dyno in couple weeks to test the Allpontiac reverse cool kit .we are going to test with conventional cooling first ,the switch to reverse cool,engine is not dry decked,why would we want to limit and restrict water flow through the hottest part of the engine.Bill C.

[slowbird]

Awesome, Please keep us posted on your results.

[taff2]

Personally,I dry deck so that in the event of a headgasket failure I don't get a cylinder full of water, I find with the Pontiac that a few of the deck coolant holes don't have a lot of gasket material around them and blow out rather easily,but I'm still messing with factory heads.

[snake charmer]

Here's a pic of the RARE timing chain cover on my 421.

[WDCreech]

Here are some pics of a dry deck with the fitting coming off the top corner of the block and some circulation around the combustion chambers.


Marty Creech

[BruceWilkie]

fwiw keep in mind 55-59 factory rev cool scheme put majority of water through heads. The water that "fell" into block had a half inch hole each side of block returning water back to pump (primarily served as tstat bypass for faster warmup) the rest of flow was gravity, convection, and vibration. You simply don't need much flow thru the block!

Cool the heads! Majority of heat is there not the block! Single #16 or larger goin in each head(or multiple inlet areas with combined total area = or greater, with less total area exiting to radiator. (builds water pump pressure needed to clear air pockets and prevent localized hot spots) Amount of water allowed to return to radiator affects running water temps both heads and block, however don't confuse pump pressure with radiator cap pressure! Too big on return to radiator causes inadequate pump pressure...dangerous localized hotspots with seemingly cool enough water temps!

LMSracer has some excellent posts on cooling... done the testing...makes and/or stocks what you need to do this right... do a search or contact him.

[TheSilverBuick]

I know this is an old thread revived, and its not a Pontiac, but Larson's S-10 on Drag Week this year runs a dry deck with remote water pump cooling, and towing a trailer never had an issue with temps.

I didn't go to a dry deck, but did go to reverse cooling on the OHC L6 engine in my Firebird. This does kind of have me thinking about what it may take to go to a dry deck on the boosted engine, hmm....