[Rich-Tripower]

I just ran the valves. I checked and the starter will crank the engine.

The problems are first when I ran the valves the rocker lock nuts aren't locking, they provide no resistance to being turned and I fear they will simply back off. Another issue is that the #8 exhaust rocker nut hits the bottom of the threads before I can reach zero lash. The stud looks fine, the intake and exhaust valve tips are at the same level and the lifter has plenty of spring/hydraulic travel just as the others so I don't think it is collapsed. The pushrod is the same length as all the others. Nothing seems amiss yet it acts as if the pushrod is about a 1/4" too short.

Will polylocks be too tall for the stock valve covers?

[Vet65te]

Rich - If you have the right size pushrods, I suspect what is happening is you're not stopping at zero-lash and then adding in the extra 1/2 to full turn on the adjustments. When I adjust hydraulic lifters, I have one hand on the ratchet and with the other hand, namely two fingers, I gently hold the pushrod and I'm rotating it back and forth while running the adjustment nut down, slowly. Once I've reached what should be zero lash, I feel the pushrod stop moving. I've also got the radio off and no one is talking as I'm concentrating on what I'm doing. This is simple stuff but it's not hard to run the nut down too far and you're actually collapsing the spring inside the lifter.
Mike T - Prescott AZ

[Baron Von Zeppelin]

Are you using the original equipment / pre-existing Jam Nuts ?

Or are they aftermarket, or for Chevro ?

The originals were torque to spec jam nuts, no lash adjustment.
15 or 20 ft lbs

Won't hardly anything fit under 389 valve covers, but some correct vintage application adjustables from good old days would fit. Royal use to sell them

[Rich-Tripower]

Everything is stock. I guess I was stuck on adjusting the rockers as I would on a Chevy. Gotta get those thoughts out of my head.

So, just torque the rocker nuts down until I reach the proper torque and I'm good to go. So then do I even need to worry about having the valve I'm torquing having its lifter on the base circle of the cam? Sounds like all I need to do is go around to each rocker and torque it without touching the crank or repositioning it occassionally (as you would do on a Chevy).

I may be dumb about the Pontiac stuff but at least I'm glad I'm smart enough to ask questions before I consider something complete!

[Vet65te]

Correction to my last post - I didn't have stock parts, the rocker set was from Comp Cams.

[Rich-Tripower]

Valves all done, now that I know how they are SUPPOSED to be done. Easy peasey. Put each cylinder on its respective TDC and torqued them down. A whole lot more straightforward than messing with setting lash.

Firing it tomorrow.

[Baron Von Zeppelin]

Hope she fires right up for you Rick.

I'd rather have the adjustable / locking hardware. And i'm sure there are sets available that will work under those covers and with 3/8 poncho bottlenecks - but i don't know what supplier or brand to recommend to you anymore.

Just be extra inquisitive if you go to buy some later.
Lots of places now will sell you anything and say or list that it will work.

[Rich-Tripower]

Got it preoiled and everything hooked up. Did a test crank and it cranks. No sputters but I didn't crank much. Got oil pressure right away. Had a few leaks at the fuel line fittings, always do it seems. Got those squared away and still had a strong smell of gas. The fuel pump was leaking like mad. Corked up the line from the tank. Looks like a I need a new fuel pump before I can try again. I'll snag a regular one local and rebuild the original (again) later. *sigh*

[Tom Vaught]

No one ever said Projects would be easy, Rich.

Keep after it and it will be fine.

Biggest issue is having that Chebby background where you assume that things will be the same and many times they are far different.

But you will be a Pontiac EXPERT in no time at all. Good Luck!

Tom V.

[Rich-Tripower]

Sure doesn't crank all that fast. I suspect I have the timing off by a bit because I didn't even get a pop. I was working alone so didn't have a good opportunity to experiment a bit here and there because of the fuel leaks. I HATE fuel leaks, they scare me half to death and this one was a mini-gusher as I tried to figure out what the problem was. The gasket on the bottom of the pump looks fine, but it must have an issue as it was leaking like mad around the center screws. I suspect it might work if I could just replace that one gasket but I don't suppose that's something I can pick up at the corner parts store. Probably best it go with all new anyway since if that one gasket leaks.....

Carb gaskets held up fine.....so far. No oil leaks but then it never really got running with full oil pressure and such. One minor coolant leak at the weep hole, I hope that clears up as the engine runs a bit. If not, it will have to be swapped too.

BTW, which direction on the distributor advances and which retards? I suspect I have not enough timing and I'd like to advance it before I try cranking again. Checked the points gap while I had the distributor out and it looked fine, dwell should be close.

[b-man]

Advance it opposite of the rotation, turn the distributor body clockwise.

[tom s]

If they are Comp roller tip rockers I think they need adj nuts like poly locks.Tom

[Ron Landis]

I have Comp Cams Magnum roller tips and oddly enough they work fine with stock nuts. I know...not supposed to. I have Poly-Locks but just haven't installed them yet. Also running stock '64 covers with the thick RA IV gaskets...no issues.

[Rich-Tripower]

New fuel pump on, all connections dry, have fuel at the carbs. Cranks kind of slow, no pops. Tried the timing at various positions. Nothing. Might not be getting spark or it is just turning too slow to catch.

How do you remove the starter? Might need a new one. I tried to remove the starter once, couldn't move it back far enough to have the nose clear the bellhousing opening, it hits the frame long before it clears the bellhousing. Do you have to jack up the engine?

[Rich-Tripower]

May still need a starter but ignition is the current issue. The coil has 12.75 volts with the iginition on, nothing running. The coil has 10 volts when cranking. Tried two coils, same results. 10 volts should be enough to get it started.

Put a timing light on spark plug wire #1. No light while cranking. So, getting no spark at the plugs at all. I suspecting the points are set wrong. Going to check the gap tomorrow. Should be .019, maybe have too much or too little dwell to catch. Not a pop at all so far. Need to get spark and then if that doesn't do it, I'll try a starter since it seems to crank pretty slow. Should have put Pertronix in it. Still might. Should be able to at least get it running with points though.

[Dick Boneske]

Rich, Do yourself a favor and connect a spark plug to one of the plug wires and lay it on the valve cover or some other surface that's grounded. Then, turn the engine over. This is a SURE way to confirm whether you actually have spark.

Your slow cranking speed could be the battery or a weak starter. Remember, there is a resistance wire between the ignition switch and coil when the key is in the run position. Voltage will depend on whether the points are open or closed. There should be +12 volts on the coil only when the key is in the start position. When the engine is running, there should be about 8-9 volts on the coil.

[Baron Von Zeppelin]

Throw a set of jumper cables on it

but do verify dwell setting first
and set the ignition timing.
Get the balancer timing mark lined up with the pointer on timing cover and then set cap and rotor spot on #1
18436572 CounterClockWise

Then hit it with the jumper cables

Back in HighSchool Mechanics class a guy rebuilt a 65 389 GTO engine for a ruffish convertible project. The tolerances were so tight on the machine work the only way it would start was with jumper cables or a battery charger set on boost - hooked to it.

[Rich-Tripower]

Got spark (bad capacitor in the point set) and lost fuel. Turns out the new fuel pump swaps the IN/OUT locations. Will try again Saturday. Going to buy a new starter as well, it just cranks too slow. Got a few pops though so progress.