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#1
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Canton oil pan fit issues
Putting together 455 for my 78 T/A and decided to use canton road race oil pan with the trap doors. Have ran into a lot of problems with this pan and wondering if it got stepped on in shipping or do others have same problems.
Bolt hole drilled too close to the lip in front and to far inboard in back to get s socket on there not all holes just 4 2 Holes on pass side so far off had to mod with a hammer to line up Slots in rear of pan at rear main so far back they were mis-aligning the seal out of the main cap grove. Trimmed tabs of seal so it would align in groove. Rust starting on welds on inside of the pan that's right out of the box And of course stock dipstick hits the plate covering the baffle setup so had to take the pan apart and drill the cover plate Built 3 pontiac motors before with stock pan & pickup never had problems like this. Had heard nothing fits like the stock pan, but also folks saying how this pan was so great. At this point debating on using the stock pan and a windage tray. Expected a lot more for the price. Just wondering if others having similar problems. |
#2
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Had some problems with mine as well. Yes, was lucky to discover that a hole had to be drilled for the dipstick before installing. Other problem was the slots for the rear gasket seal. Ended up cutting some slots and bending the edge of pan surface to keep seal from moving rearward. Otherwise good pan. Autocrossed car once and had no oil pressure issues, also took care of the high speed on ramp turns. Wish it would have come with some modification notes though....
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Drivin' fast and takin' chances!!!! |
#3
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I've used these pans many times with great success.
Each one has to be fitted. I have even utilized the stock block dip stick tube & tigged the lower tube that has the 2-bolt strap to a support in the Canton 20-918 - Pontiac screen windage tray For the rear cap seal I use the factory cork strip & glue it to the cap as the 3- tab rubber seal does not match and the excess will usually squiggle & leak.
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Carburetor building & modification services Servicing the Pontiac community over 25 years |
#4
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I think one of mine I had to notch some of the bolt holes. I convert them to 5 prong rear seals with a Dremel and no leaks.
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Skip Fix 1978 Trans Am original owner 10.99 @ 124 pump gas 455 E heads, NO Bird ever! 1981 Black SE Trans Am stockish 6X 400ci, turbo 301 on a stand 1965 GTO 4 barrel 3 speed project 2004 GTO Pulse Red stock motor computer tune 13.43@103.4 1964 Impala SS 409/470ci 600 HP stroker project 1979 Camaro IAII Edelbrock head 500" 695 HP 10.33@132 3595lbs |
#5
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Unfortunately, most guys never want to hear that their expensive aftermarket parts always have to be "fitted" to every engine..Truth is, almost everything does, even when new, and usually always oil pans/systems. Just because it is new and expensive, doesn't mean it just bolts on. I do it every day, and although frustrating at times I will admit, if you want to use it, sometimes it takes a bit of work to make it happen. That's engine building, especially in the Hi Performance world. Always mock it up and make sure it's going to work first before final assembly. NEVER assume. Just some friendly advice. Hope this helps.
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#6
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Any advice on leak checking prior to install? Had heard hang by the cherry picker at some angle with 6qts in it and wait over night. Just want to make sure this thing is sealed all the way around now rather than after installed in the car. I'm afraid leaking pan at this point means the stock pan and gasket goes on and girlfriend gets a nice planter...
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#7
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I've installed at least half a dozen Canton pans, but a LOT more Morroso's and much prefer them. Both will still need some custom fitting at a few of the bolt holes, and on occasion some windage tray bending/trimming to clear them. Nothing really difficult or involving a lot of re-engineering of the part.
If you are having a LOT of issues in multiple areas a flag goes up, especially at the rear pan seal, as most are fine back there, and any bolt hole or mis-alignment issues are typically on the front of the pan, not at the rear, at least from what I've seen here......Cliff
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If you can read this, thank a teacher. If you can read this in English, thank a Veteran! https://cliffshighperformance.com/ 73 Ventura, SOLD 455, 3740lbs, 11.30's at 120mph, 1977 Pontiac Q-jet, HO intake, HEI, 10" converter, 3.42 gears, DOT's, 7.20's at 96mph and still WAY under the roll bar rule. Best ET to date 7.18 at 97MPH (1/8th mile), |
#8
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The cork strip in the rear has worked on the last 2 I have done with a Canton. Also normally use allen head bolts at the front. The smaller head OD doesnt hit the front of the pan, just the flat section. Spin locks or factory type hardware tend to get into the radius of the pan sides/front and tweak the pan around. THIN layer of Ultra Grey on all surfaces. And a pea sized squirt in the 4 corners. Might as well fill the pan with water to the bottom of the baffle and calibrate your dipstick indicator. Cantons 6 qts. is system capacity with large filter.
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