[60man]

Just to throw this out there. Is the same pump involved with both incidents?
If so...could bolt holes be drilled wrong on base ? It would influence the angle of the pump shaft I would think. Just a thought..

Ask Russ White (Pro-Stick) about wheelie bars..but now he's bending them..
I stuck some on the GP just because..

[Probird]

Originally Posted by 60man

Just to throw this out there. Is the same pump involved with both incidents?
If so...could bolt holes be drilled wrong on base ? It would influence the angle of the pump shaft I would think. Just a thought..

Ask Russ White (Pro-Stick) about wheelie bars..but now he's bending them..
I stuck some on the GP just because..

That's a thought Troy. Yes it's the same pump. Going to swap it out this time though. I'll check it with another one to see if that's a possibility though. There is definitely not enough room with the way this counterweight is shaped. This crank came out of Langer's engine. I have no idea how he got it to work without the same issues. All I can figure is he didn't put near as many passes on it and the problem didn't show up. I assumed maybe he ran a dry sump but in the other thread he says he runs a cam driven internal pump....so?

[Probird]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Hm, about .050 you think? You might be able to shim & trim the thrust to get that.

On the rear, you can add anti-squat by moving the front spring eye higher, can re-drill the perch. Old Herb Adams mod. You might have to mod the floor pan to do this mod though.

.

That would be a lot of work. I would have to redo the narrowed frame rails as that's where the front of the springs mount to. It would be easier to put a 4 link and coil overs under it. Lol!

The car has been mini-tubbed and has ladder bars and leaf springs with housing floaters. The car works great and is fun to drive. Just once in a while it gets a bit too high. Moving the bars down, limiting the front end and stiffening the front shocks works pretty good. And I took the fiberglass fenders off and put steel ones back on to add a little bit of weight up front. So far since doing that I've only banged it off the oil pan once. I didn't have the limiters all the way down like I should have. I loosened it up a bit after adding the front fenders but the air was getting real good late in the evening, and it was getting higher and higher every pass, but I didn't want to change anything going into the final so I let it fly. That was the last pass of the year last season.

[455firebird1969]

Those washers in picture four look like they have the wrong inside diameter, but in picture three they look OK. Is it an illusion? The bolts in picture four look like the original bolts, but they are going through that plate and the thick flat washers...do they have enough thread engagement? If the flat washers do in fact have a too-large inside diameter it would affect the ability of the bolt head to clamp the washer evenly, preventing a smooth bearing surface. I doubt it has anything to do with the splitting shaft problem, but it caught my eye.

[Probird]

Originally Posted by 455firebird1969

Those washers in picture four look like they have the wrong inside diameter, but in picture three they look OK. Is it an illusion? The bolts in picture four look like the original bolts, but they are going through that plate and the thick flat washers...do they have enough thread engagement? If the flat washers do in fact have a too-large inside diameter it would affect the ability of the bolt head to clamp the washer evenly, preventing a smooth bearing surface. I doubt it has anything to do with the splitting shaft problem, but it caught my eye.

It does look funny in pic 4. Its an optical illusion. Pic 3 is what they really look like.

[Probird]

I've come up with what I believe is a fix for the problem of the crank counterweight coming into contact with the oil pump drive shaft. Tell me what you think.

Instead of clearancing the counterweight and rebalancing the crank I decided to slot the hole in the oil pump, closest to the rear main cap, so it can rotate a little and provide about .025" of clearance at the closest spot, with the crank pushed back in the block as far as it will go. The shaft was very close to the small hole in the block that the shaft goes through, but still cleared. Since it was so close I opened up that hole from 1/2" to 5/8". The shaft moves freely and the oil feed hole in the block still lines up fine with the one in the pump. It slightly changes the angle of the shaft but it doesn't look like enough to hurt anything. I mocked this all up using an old pump. Anyone see a problem with this fix?

[60man]

Originally Posted by Probird

I've come up with what I believe is a fix for the problem of the crank counterweight coming into contact with the oil pump drive shaft. Tell me what you think.

Instead of clearancing the counterweight and rebalancing the crank I decided to slot the hole in the oil pump, closest to the rear main cap, so it can rotate a little and provide about .025" of clearance at the closest spot, with the crank pushed back in the block as far as it will go. The shaft was very close to the small hole in the block that the shaft goes through, but still cleared. Since it was so close I opened up that hole from 1/2" to 5/8". The shaft moves freely and the oil feed hole in the block still lines up fine with the one in the pump. It slightly changes the angle of the shaft but it doesn't look like enough to hurt anything. I mocked this all up using an old pump. Anyone see a problem with this fix?

Your welcome...
Just kidding..
That would have been my next step to try if problem still existed with a different pump.
If shaft doesn't bind in any way and oil feed lines up....I'd try it. What you got loose.(Loosely speaking)
Good luck. Hope to catch ya at Norwalk.

[johnta1]

Rick, does the IA II block have the 'donut' hole that the oil shaft goes through?

Factory block wouldn't have much leeway to move it, I wouldn't think, don't know about your block though.

But if it has the clearance/room, that would be a better way of correcting it than grinding the shaft/crank.

[Blued and Painted]

with everything flying around @ X rpm's, i was thinking .050 min clearance. Think i would ah dress the crankshaft.

[Probird]

Originally Posted by johnta1

Rick, does the IA II block have the 'donut' hole that the oil shaft goes through?

Factory block wouldn't have much leeway to move it, I wouldn't think, don't know about your block though.

But if it has the clearance/room, that would be a better way of correcting it than grinding the shaft/crank.

Yes it has that hole John. That's the one I drilled out from 1/2" to 5/8". It clears that hole just fine like it is.