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#1
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'66 GP teardown "tips" needed
Hi guys:
My '70 GTO was so much easier to tear down than this one. SO MUCH ... Now that I'm beginning to start a teardown of the car I was going to start on the front and pop the grills out a WTH? I couldn't get to the bottom of the grills to take the screws out (top ones obviously easy) ... So I thought maybe we'll take the a/c condenser out (the radiator is already out) and get to it from behind. But the condenser looks like it needs the grills out to get to the under portion of the grills? So I started working on the bumper. There was a bolt on the bottom-center that I have no idea how to get to ... besides the other seemingly impossible bolts to get to. Am I missing something? The body manual says "just remove the bumper bolts" haha One more ... after you take the screws out of the rocker moldings do the moldings just "pop off" or are there clips holding it? Do you "gently" nudge with a screwdriver little by little until it comes off? Do you have to nudge open the tabs on the bottom of the molding in order for the moldings to pop out? THANKS FOR YOUR HELP!
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1970 GTO Convertible 455 Ram Air M-21, Atoll/Blue/Black, Hood Tach, 3:31 12-Bolt Posi, A/C, Console 1966 Grand Prix 421 Tripower 4spd, Marina Turquoise/Turquoise, a/c, console, posi, reverb. pa, pb, ps, remote mirror, mats 2010 Dodge Challenger R/T Classic, 6spd Hemi, Detonator Yellow, black stripe, black leather |
#2
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It's probably easier to remove the bumper by unbolting the bumper brackets from the frame and then removing bumper and brackets as an assembly, rather than trying to unbolt the bumper from the brackets while they're still on the car.
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#3
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unbolt the brackets from the frame. it is easier to do if you pull the radiator out first as the rear bolts come out through the frame. there are also 2 rubber brackets that hold the sides fo the bumper to the fenders. I usually forget these until it is too late. drop bumper, then you will be able to unbolt the lower panel fron the fenders and core support. pull the lower support, grilles and nose out as an assembly. then disassemble it while off the car. good luck.
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1965 2+2 1966 Catalina Convert 1968 Firebird 350 1969 GTO 1967 Bonneville 4 Dr Brougham 428 1967 Bonneville 2 dr 1959 Buick LeSabre 2dr |
#4
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I've got my Monday day off ... I know where I'll be!
Thanks guys ... I find it incredible that the grills just don't "pop out" after taking off some screws. My '70 GTO is so much easier to work on. Wow ... This will be an interesting adventure since it's my first time doing anything like this type of project. Can't wait till it's on the road!
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1970 GTO Convertible 455 Ram Air M-21, Atoll/Blue/Black, Hood Tach, 3:31 12-Bolt Posi, A/C, Console 1966 Grand Prix 421 Tripower 4spd, Marina Turquoise/Turquoise, a/c, console, posi, reverb. pa, pb, ps, remote mirror, mats 2010 Dodge Challenger R/T Classic, 6spd Hemi, Detonator Yellow, black stripe, black leather |
#5
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"I find it incredible that the grills just don't "pop out" after taking off some screws. My '70 GTO is so much easier to work on. Wow …"
And you will find that these cars are a WHOLE LOT better crafted and engineered than that car. Note how on the interior and most exterior nearly every metal to metal contact point has mortite or other to eliminate rattles etc. Many other examples will reveal themselves as you go forward. Front grill: Once you get the bumper off with brackets attached - the center section of the grill is held in by bolts that are threaded on both ends. One end threads into the center grill section. That is your clue. I have only taken the Bonneville/Cat center section apart, but they go together the same. With that info, you should be able to get it apart without tearing anything up. There are other threads here where a bunch of us go into more detail on how these fasteners etc. work. If you do a content search with some terms and me as a poster that should get it. You really need to get the grills out to get to the condenser etc. It is just much easier. Core support will have to be gone over too, so better to just figure this out first. Rocker Molding: The rocker moldings are held in by bathtub clips. Studs with balls on the end of them on the molding push into these clips. You have to be VERY careful when you remove or the studs will break off of the rocker molding. You are then screwed b/c it is pot metal, and you can not weld to it. Work from one of the screwed in ends and use a Wonder Bar to gently pry out. Set a block behind the molding to hold it off so you can see behind there. If you can get access and pry out w long flat blade screwdriver or destroy the clips that go into the rocker, you can replace those at Restoration Specialties. They have tabs at either end which can be pushed in to release from the body or bent to remove. There are 2 aggressive internal tangs that can get stubbornly hung up on the studs. Sometimes studs pop right out other times not.
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"If you do everything you'll win" -LBJ 13 Smiles per Gallon: 66 Bonneville wagon 66 Bonneville 2d HT - In perpetual progress Last edited by Deadhead; 05-31-2014 at 11:58 AM. |
#6
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Welcome to the Darkside.
patrick
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#7
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Thanks guys!
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1970 GTO Convertible 455 Ram Air M-21, Atoll/Blue/Black, Hood Tach, 3:31 12-Bolt Posi, A/C, Console 1966 Grand Prix 421 Tripower 4spd, Marina Turquoise/Turquoise, a/c, console, posi, reverb. pa, pb, ps, remote mirror, mats 2010 Dodge Challenger R/T Classic, 6spd Hemi, Detonator Yellow, black stripe, black leather |
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