[gtofreek]

OK, I will run 3/16" in the front and rear, and 1/4" just from front to rear. You guys have convinced me that I don't need the larger line and The guy helping convert the 9" Ford to disk is pretty sure they rear calipers are 3/8x24, which I couldn't find 1/4" tubing nuts in that size. He also said that the proportioning valve is setup for 1/4" line to run to the rear.

[HWYSTR455]

OE prop/distro valves use 1/4" line for the rear out port. Usually a soft line goes from the caliper in the rear too, can look up the application of the calipers you plan to use and hoses for that app. The end of the hose usually allows for the hard line to screw right into it. There's usually tabs that go on the axle tube to fix the lines in place.

The full brake line kits with the disc conversion (valve under the booster) is like $130. You can then just grab a brake line fitting that matches the soft line in the rear and re-flare the end to make it fit. Lines have all the stone guard stuff in factory locations, minimal bending, pretty much falls into place.

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[old66tiger]

I like the adjustable prop valve in line for the rear. I don't care for the prop valves used under the booster in the kit systems. Too generic and only good for stock systems.

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by old66tiger

I like the adjustable prop valve in line for the rear. I don't care for the prop valves used under the booster in the kit systems. Too generic and only good for stock systems.

I have a disc/disc combo valve on the driver, a hybrid C5 brake setup, lowered, ATS spindles, and the balance is great. Never locks up the rear unless you hit a dip in the road or something, even in the most taxing exercises. I might be able to dial a little more towards the rear, but I can't imagine much. And I have had plenty of opportunities to test it.

Have typical D52 calipers on the front of the clone, 2nd gen F-body rotors, on the back have the Right Stuff Detailing 11" rear kit with e-brakes, a 9" dual diaphragm booster, and a 1 1/8 master. Same with that, combo valve that came in the booster/master kit for disc/disc, and that thing will toss you through the windshield with no rear lockup. That thing works so good, I don't see a need to upgrade the brakes on that. You would think with the large rotors on the back it wouldn't be balanced, but it is. Hard to beat a $400 rear disc conversion kit too.

Maybe it all depends on the combo? I've heard some don't have good results with the combo valves for disc/disc setups. But most of the folks I know first hand do run them without a problem.

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[gtofreek]

I ordered the Nicopp brake line tubing from S.U.R. & R last night. Found it through Amazon. 25' of 3/16" and 25' of 1/4". Probably won't need but 8-10 feet of the 1/4", but to buy a 10' piece was about as much as buying a 25' piece, so 25' it was. Also ordered an assortment of stainless steel tubing nuts. Found a pretty good deal on the tubing but it did go up about $6 since last week. Guess I should have ordered it last week.

[Joel Koontz]

Amazon pricing can fluctuate a bunch.

I have looked at stuff and gone back the next day and it was up, 20/30% and then a few days later, the price was down to less than the original price I found it for.

Where did you get the stainless tubing nuts?

[gtofreek]

Originally Posted by Joel Koontz

Amazon pricing can fluctuate a bunch.

I have looked at stuff and gone back the next day and it was up, 20/30% and then a few days later, the price was down to less than the original price I found it for.

Where did you get the stainless tubing nuts?

Jegs had an assortment for $27. It had like 14 or 16 pieces.