[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by 71 Goatman

HWYSTR455,

Sorry for the delay been traveling.............Typically all my rods and mains are .002 to .0025. When warmed up idle oil pressure is 25 - 30 psi, 60psi at 5500. Haven't found much difference in pressure between 5w20 and 0w20. Has served all my newer and older traditional V-8 engines well. Three Power Tours on the Goat, getting ready for #4 in June.

Np, thanks for the follow up. Yeah, tighter clearances like those are usually not a problem with thinner oils, so makes sense. Most builders these days go bigger on performance builds, and that's where you start seeing lower oil psi with thinner oils. Newer cars' engines, since technology has advanced, are capable of tighter control over machining, hence bearing clearances, and a reason you see thinner oils recommended/used.

I'm probably going to catch up with the power tour for 2 stops as it passes in the clone, keep an eye out.


.

[60man]

Originally Posted by Tempest

Synthetic oil in your rear diffs and 4 speed transmissions in your classics? Yes? No?

I do....even in my race cars...
Even in my early posi units..when in doubt....read the label.
Changing trans fluid in tow truck lower temp by 15 degress...My E4OD is happy

[71 Goatman]

HWYSTR455,

FYI - Would like to meet up with another Pontiac fan on the PT..........I will be at the last three stops, Crown Pointe, Bettendorf, and the Dells.

[old66tiger]

Where are you pulling your pressure readings from? Oil pump or by the distributor? I have found that pressures are higher at the oil filter housing by 7-10 psi. Static pressure loss through the oil filter.

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by 71 Goatman

HWYSTR455,

FYI - Would like to meet up with another Pontiac fan on the PT..........I will be at the last three stops, Crown Pointe, Bettendorf, and the Dells.

I probably will only make Knoxville and Charleston, break off half way to Norwalk. But look for me in the clone, tags are Virginia 'DualG8', flag me down.

.

[lust4speed]

I always wondered why GM specified synthetic gear oil in the rear dif and conventional gear oil in the front dif of the 1/2 ton 4x4 vehicles (at least in the 2002 and 2003 that I'm familiar with). Seems that it would have made more sense to not have different gear oils on the same vehicle.

[Rick Beller]

All engine oils have ZDDP (zinc). The levels of zinc are limited and all API SN oils are limited to less than 800 ppm.

Diesel engine oils are allowed to have a tad more ZDDP.

There are many rumors about today oils lacking in enough zinc. Most of these comments some from uninformed people who read too many internet blogs.

Racing oils or any oil NOT allowed to be used on the street can have as much zinc in them as they choose, since it is not regulated for on road use. Some of these oils have as much as 3000ppm zinc.

Oil Changes and when, High Quality filters and Oil are the key to long lasting protection and extended drains. I don`t recommend long drain interval for carburetor car, they have to much gas that ends up in the oil.Everyone has an opinion on this one, remember if you want to get real on this have a lab do an Oil analysis on your oil and create a file. Or change you oil every 3 to 4 thousand miles or yearly. Yearly means at the end of the season to rid the system of hamful contaminates before you put it away for several months. I do run 5 to 7 thousand miles between oil changes on my newer fuel injected cars and vans.

When you pull the oil plug on your car you should see dirty oil or dark oil. If the oil is clean,the oil you are using does not have enough detergents in it to keep your motor clean. Remember if the company spends bunches of money advertising,how much money is left for quality product to make that oil?
Remember the same applies to Oil additives, If big buck are spent on advertising how much money is left for quality ingredients and the retail price of the additive is $3.00 or so.

[i82much]

Not in my GTO. For a carbureted application i would think fuel dilution would mean you should change your oil very frequently even with synthetic, unless you have a perfect fuel curve.

[Sirrotica]

Originally Posted by Rick Beller

All engine oils have ZDDP (zinc). The levels of zinc are limited and all API SN oils are limited to less than 800 ppm.

Diesel engine oils are allowed to have a tad more ZDDP.

There are many rumors about today oils lacking in enough zinc. Most of these comments some from uninformed people who read too many internet blogs.

Racing oils or any oil NOT allowed to be used on the street can have as much zinc in them as they choose, since it is not regulated for on road use. Some of these oils have as much as 3000ppm zinc.

Oil Changes and when, High Quality filters and Oil are the key to long lasting protection and extended drains.

The strainer, your referring to as a filter, that is the full flow factory designed system is woefully inadequate to keep particulate out of your oil. That's the whole reason you have to keep changing oil is because the strainer just filters down to approx 30 microns. It will leave all the fine particulate in the oil and the 5-10 micron particulate that does major damage in an engine continues to circulate until you remove it via an oil change.

I have a Frantz filter on my own 6.5 turbo diesel and the oil (plain Rotella conventional oil) is over 20,000 miles, and has been in the engine for 2 1/2 years now with just filter changes and a quart of makeup oil when I change the filter. Anyone else here want to try that with just the full flow filter and no bypass filter system?

The filter the factory uses is just like a strainer you have in your kitchen as far as removing solids, it'll remove the big stuff and leaves the rest. Just think how much more efficient it is to remove all the solids and not have the smaller particulate circulating until you dump them out with the oil change.

No matter how much you pay, or what brand of full flow strainer you buy, it only has so many square inches of coarse pore filtering paper in it, and no matter how many times the oil circulates the finer material goes right through it.

Another thing is when you run a car through the gears all the oil will not be pushed through the filter, the bypass valves will open and a percentage of the oil needed to keep from starving the internal engine parts goes right around the filter.

I don`t recommend long drain interval for carburetor car, they have to much gas that ends up in the oil.Everyone has an opinion on this one, remember if you want to get real on this have a lab do an Oil analysis on your oil and create a file. Or change you oil every 3 to 4 thousand miles or yearly. Yearly means at the end of the season to rid the system of hamful contaminates before you put it away for several months. I do run 5 to 7 thousand miles between oil changes on my newer fuel injected cars and vans.

Fuel in the crankcase in small quantities will evaporate as soon as the oil reaches it's operating temperature and is sustained for any length of time. Unless the car is leaking fuel into the oil via a defective fuel pump, or a choke that never opens, a flooding carb etc. The minute bit that gets by the rings will leave the oil when it gets warmed up.

When you pull the oil plug on your car you should see dirty oil or dark oil. If the oil is clean,the oil you are using does not have enough detergents in it to keep your motor clean. Remember if the company spends bunches of money advertising,how much money is left for quality product to make that oil?
Remember the same applies to Oil additives, If big buck are spent on advertising how much money is left for quality ingredients and the retail price of the additive is $3.00 or so.

If the oil is clean your probably using a bypass filter system and it will continue to be clean. By keeping 99.9% of the particulate out of the oil the detergents have really nothing to do as far as carrying the dirt suspended in the oil and the finer matter that a full flow filter misses will not continue to circulate wearing engine parts.