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#1
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Standard tub removal question
Plumbers / handymen!
See attached image. Note the arrow I drew on the tube. I THINK the drain pipes that attach to the tub are slip fit into the drain pipe below... This is a 1952 Standard (later "American Standard") bath tub that I need to move to replace the floor below. The guys I hired to help me will want to get the tub away from the wall today but I don't need anything broken down below. Plumbing stresses me out. Advice appreciated!!! |
#2
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Here is the top side...
Shiny side of the tub...
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#3
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If it where me and I was removing the tub and re installing it, I would replace the the complete trip waste on the tub, they are thin brass and rubber washers and once you disturb them you will likely start chasing leaks.
When the sub floor got replaced I would cut that plywood a little further away from the waist line for future service, When installing a new bath I would usually cut a hole 10 in wide and a couple of inches out past the drain, and I would consider maybe cutting the galvanized pipe a couple of inches down from where it connected now, cutting the threads off and making room for a slip coupling of some kind like a no hub connecter , or fernco coupling. It looks like the connection you have is brass tail pc into the galvanized pipe with a compression washer. It will be very hard to disconnect it and replace it the same way without grief in my opinion, and I'm guessing the hight of the tub might be a little higher,with floor worked on ? best way is to get the galv pipe out of the way so you can concentrate on installing the tub, then make your final connection underneath , just look at a coupling and have a plan before you cut the pipe so to make sure you have the room t work with. I'm almost reluctant sometimes to answer plumbing questions because there are always so many variables , but I did this kind of work for years and just thought maybe a general thought might be helpful, Just don't ask me to help move that tub!,, Are you going to remove the other fixtures for room? are you going to trim some of the finish wall away for room? ouch , it hurts just looking at it ! lol, hope this helps you some how. |
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#4
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Very good advise there.
Replace the drain / overflow with PVC or ABS and connect the new to the old with a Fernco coupling. Get help moving that tub,probably about 300 lbs |
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#5
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Even though I have over 25 years of new construction, renovation, service in plumbing and heating, I am still afraid to try to answer a question for someone because in general I have found that when you get three plumbers and a handyman in a room discussing the best way to do something. It turns into one of those discussions on the news where you have 6 faces talking against each other, and you can't even understand what they are trying to say. Until the smart ones just turn around and just quietly leave the room. Again the most difficult thing to deal with on this job will be (Gravity) |
#6
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Really helpful info, fellas. Don't worry, I won't enlist either of you to help move the tub, nor will I blame anything on you. (I know what you mean about advice and unintended outcomes and consequences!)
To relocate the tub away from the wall, I will enlist help from the two other guys who are doing 90% of the carpentry. I would like to retain the original upper chrome drain ring (reads "Standard Made in USA") if possible. Hopefully the new PVC stuff is compatible. |
#7
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Cutting it back to where you can make it as modern and "normal" as possible is the way I eye these, but without being there very difficult to make the call. If you have access underneath Matt you are MILES ahead.
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"If you do everything you'll win" -LBJ 13 Smiles per Gallon: 66 Bonneville wagon 66 Bonneville 2d HT - In perpetual progress |
#8
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The situation today
Walls are being gutted... floors will be after that.
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#9
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I don't know about the 1950's stuff, but this video shows how a tub drain is typically removed.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N81llf4h_J4 I've used this method myself and it works fine. Once the drain is out and the walls and floor are gone, the tub should slide out. I just finished a master bath gut and remodel. Not sure if I ever want to do one again.
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#10
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#11
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BLAST. No ,what ever you do do not try to smash it to remove. It will take muscle been there a few times best easiest.Ours is 50 plus yrs still looks good. Yes replace drain Take one step at a time-plan your work.It will get done.
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#12
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I like the old tubs too but as a realtor, its always nice to have a deeper newer style tub at a showing. I just removed and replaced an old Iron tub in a house because they are fairly bulletproof. My one implant at showings was the old school tub. Just food for thought.
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As an aside, I should point out that my wife and I are DE-modeling our house...as in we are trying to bring it back to as-built, be it good, bad or indifferent. For example, it wasn't until this past summer (after 6 years of searching) that I found the correct toilet (in an unusual color used by Standard from '29-'40 and then from '46-'57 and that was it, folks) at a vintage plumbing restoration place out in California. I found a first-series sink in the correct color about 4 years ago locally at the Habitat "Re-Store". Hence the project commencement. A thread I started in 2007 seems to have gone AWOL, but in any case it was of the adjacent, shower bathroom redo. Sincere thanks for the replies, fellas. |
#14
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I saw the other Facebook pics and you might want to have an expert here look at that PVC sink drain to make sure the venting is OK. It looks like it ties into that vertical cast iron stack. I know there is a limit on how far you can drain before you vent.
Post up your progress. You can make it retro, but make the hidden stuff be modern and low maintenance.
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