[grrrrregg!!!]

My seat covers are off, old factory seat buns have been removed. I still have a number of hog rings to remove. Wow those seat frames are UGLY. Light rust every where. What do you guys do to clean these up. thanks

Gregg

[Singleton]

I soaked mine in Ospho for several days, then epoxy primed them.

[miragesmack67]

Or media blast them, and of course coat them with something. I did mine in 1983 but only used rattle can to recoat, I would be curious of their condition now.

[grrrrregg!!!]

Originally Posted by Singleton

I soaked mine in Ospho for several days, then epoxy primed them.

How much Ospho did you need to be able to soak your seat frames in it.

G

[rexs73gto]

I used a wire wheel & also sand blasted them. Then sprayed them with some cheap rattle can paint, covered it with lots of paint , dripping wet , let dry & then recover.

[Singleton]

Originally Posted by grrrrregg!!!

How much Ospho did you need to be able to soak your seat frames in it.

G

I had 3 gallons. Separated the top and bottom frames and set them one at a time in a small tub. Used paper towels soaked in ospho to lay on the part of the seat frames that were not submerged. Kept the towels wet with ospho when they would start to dry out.
Took awhile to do this, maybe a week.

[rohrt]

I seen on another site where someone used Eastwood rust encapsulator. This may be the direction I go.

[MescaBug]

Originally Posted by rexs73gto

I used a wire wheel & also sand blasted them. Then sprayed them with some cheap rattle can paint, covered it with lots of paint , dripping wet , let dry & then recover.

That's what I did. Media blasted the frames, wire wheel on the springs. Red oxide primer, and then POR15. Looks brand new.

[miragesmack67]

Originally Posted by miragesmack67

Or media blast them, and of course coat them with something. I did mine in 1983 but only used rattle can to recoat, I would be curious of their condition now.

Quoting myself. I just went and took pics of my seats from underneath, and I can confirm the rattle can job I did in '83 didn't work. The car has had zero miles and been stored in a garage. The seat material looks brand new underneath but the springs are all rusty again. I wish they had better product back then, but I was a teenager and probably would have used rattle can anyway. FYI, I am just now getting around to the car, it has sat since '85, that should explain my answer.

[grrrrregg!!!]

Originally Posted by rohrt

I seen on another site where someone used Eastwood rust encapsulator. This may be the direction I go.

This seems to be the easier, cleaner way to go. Maybe POR15 afterwords.

[rohrt]

Originally Posted by grrrrregg!!!

This seems to be the easier, cleaner way to go. Maybe POR15 afterwords.

I'm not 100% but arnt POR and the Eastwood rust encapsolator basicly the same thing?

[grrrrregg!!!]

Originally Posted by rohrt

I'm not 100% but arnt POR and the Eastwood rust encapsolator basicly the same thing?

rohrt,,,, Yes, I think your right. I was confusing encapsolater with converter, how about a converter first, followed by POR, or Eastwood encapsolater

thanks

[HWYSTR455]

POR15 you paint right onto rust, hence the name, PaintOverRust. As long as there's no oil on it, it will never come off. It's supposed to go right on metal, so if you prime it first, you wasted the POR. The primer will separate from the metal from moisture and the POR will come off in flakes or sheets.

Top coat POR only if it's exposed to UV light, otherwise just leave it alone.

I did a friend's convertible Delta seat frames, just slammed the stripped frame on the ground a few times to get the scale off and POR15 them. Worked great.

The only area there's an issue is where the springs are joined with the clips, they move, so no real way to keep them coated.

.

[rohrt]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

POR15 you paint right onto rust, hence the name, PaintOverRust. As long as there's no oil on it, it will never come off. It's supposed to go right on metal, so if you prime it first, you wasted the POR. The primer will separate from the metal from moisture and the POR will come off in flakes or sheets.

Top coat POR only if it's exposed to UV light, otherwise just leave it alone.

I did a friend's convertible Delta seat frames, just slammed the stripped frame on the ground a few times to get the scale off and POR15 them. Worked great.

The only area there's an issue is where the springs are joined with the clips, they move, so no real way to keep them coated.

.

I would agree with that 100%

If you want to bomb can it I would use phosphoric acid to de rust it and etch. If you use the POR stuff its best to have at least surface rust.

I have never tried POR on a clean metal surface. I did onece apply it under a car that was in a primer and when it dried it curled up and fell off. Think there were some post a while back where they blasted a car frame and applied POR and it looked really nice.

[grrrrregg!!!]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

POR15 you paint right onto rust, hence the name, PaintOverRust. As long as there's no oil on it, it will never come off. It's supposed to go right on metal, so if you prime it first, you wasted the POR. The primer will separate from the metal from moisture and the POR will come off in flakes or sheets.

Top coat POR only if it's exposed to UV light, otherwise just leave it alone.

I did a friend's convertible Delta seat frames, just slammed the stripped frame on the ground a few times to get the scale off and POR15 them. Worked great.

The only area there's an issue is where the springs are joined with the clips, they move, so no real way to keep them coated.

.

thanks HWYSTR455 and everybody else for the ideas, PaintOverRust it is, I'll be looking into POR15

[Old Goat 67]

You'll be happy. Warning, don't get that s#!t on you, it'll have to wear off!

[67GP428]

Hi Gregg. I've used and had great results with this product. Blue lightning rust remover and metal prep + rust inhibitor. Check out his website. www.blulightning.com Scott