[wrench]

Originally Posted by mike leech

How often is the best way to fix something also the easiest way? pull the head.

X2.. just bring it to your machine shop. A couple hours of your time and a few dollars spent to have better threads than you had originally. I reused cometics many times. Or buy the time-sert kit and be ready for the next time.

[Tom Vaught]

Originally Posted by T Syron

This brings up a question... Does anyone torque there plugs with a torque wrench? Tom Syron

I have for a long time (since the early 70s)

Tom Vaught

[Sun Tuned]

If you want a treat....
Put in a set on a bare head, gap them dead nuts on before, then check after .

Torque is more scientific, but if you use your head you'll be able to get real close by hand too.

The key here is consistency. It's an acquired feel to do it by hand.

I've seen guys tighten the hell out of plugs by hand just being general idiots and when you do that you will change the gap on the plug from where you originally gapped it on the toolbox.

Try it, you'd be shocked.

[J.C.you]

If you hydraulic the cyl with water, something has to give, head gasket, plug, smash the top ringland or worse. Probably what was going one for a long time. Didn't you have another thread with blown gaskets?

[grandville455]

Originally Posted by J.C.you

If you hydraulic the cyl with water, something has to give, head gasket, plug, smash the top ringland or worse. Probably what was going one for a long time. Didn't you have another thread with blown gaskets?

Yes, thats what I'm saying, wondering if there is a crack somewhere that fills it up? Maybe in the cylinder by water jacket , hell I dunno, but something odd is going on in those two cylinders. I will pull it tomorrow to see if it's blown.

[J.C.you]

It's probably not blown, the plug did, since you re-sealed it with a new head gasket.
I would guess you have a small crack in the cyl. or a leaky carb that is putting raw gas in the cyl.

[grandville455]

Originally Posted by J.C.you

It's probably not blown, the plug did, since you re-sealed it with a new head gasket.
I would guess you have a small crack in the cyl. or a leaky carb that is putting raw gas in the cyl.

Yea, I am hoping not, How will i know if its cracked, probably wont be able to see it? It will be too fine? I didn't see anything when I had the head off, i looked at it. I am hoping that its just from a new gasket and more pressure and threads that were suspect from the last blow out last year, and with more cranking psi it couldnt hold? I did pop the rad cap this morning and there was no pressure like before so that tells me the head gasket is more than likely fine. Could the head be cracked somewhere? How do u check a aluminum head for cracks? Pressure test it?

[tpssonic]

The #5 and #7 cylinders are next to each other in the engine and in the firing order. If the voltage from the #5 wire is induced into #7 detonation could occur and cause engine damage.

[grandville455]

Originally Posted by tpssonic

The #5 and #7 cylinders are next to each other in the engine and in the firing order. If the voltage from the #5 wire is induced into #7 detonation could occur and cause engine damage.

That's easy enough to change after i get spark plug hole fixed

[grandville455]

Machine shop said that the threads were probably sketchy from last blow out etc, and just couldn't hold the new gasket and more pressure, they said they would repair it for$35 bucks and each hole after for 10.. so I am going to have 5-7 done.

[60man]

It's a bitch Darby...
My threads in my Tigers feel a little sloppy before plug gasket sets...
I will address any issues while heads are off now.
Even though we(racers) don't leave plugs in for a long time to make anti-seize needed IMO..
BUT..I always used anti-seize as a lube to prevent tread wear and a sealer...

[Ventura455]

You can do the repair without pulling the head.I do alot of the ford triton motors with 100% success rate. First you need to make sure both valves are closed. I would remove the rockers off the cylinder you are working on. Next there are many kits out there to do the repair right and permanent so pic one. I bought my kit through Napa auto parts. After the hole is tapped for the new thread sert get a blow gun and an air compressor. On the end of the blow gun I bought a 5/16th brass fitting to screw into the air nozzle and then I attached a long piece of vacuum hose to it and I shove the hose in the cylinder head through the spark plug hole and then blast air into the cylinder and all the chips will come flying out the hole. Remove the vacuum hose and install your insert. I will always put silicone on the threads of the insert so it will seal up good. It should be good to go after that.

[grandville455]

It looks like a tight fit tho for #5 to me? I hate to not get it started straight...

[Ventura455]

Originally Posted by grandville455

It looks like a tight fit tho for #5 to me? I hate to not get it started straight...

The taps that come in the kits will pilot off the existing plug hole while cutting the new threads. Once you have the kit in your hands it should only take an hour or less to complete the repair. You can do it!

[J.C.you]

if you had your plug hole fixed, you could test by doing a leak down. You would need a leak down tester tho.

[ponjohn]

Darby-

Curious, have you run this problem by Dave at SD?

[grandville455]

Originally Posted by J.C.you

if you had your plug hole fixed, you could test by doing a leak down. You would need a leak down tester tho.

Plug hole is fixed, they only did #5 , 7 was fine they ran a tap thru it and all good there. So U mean once i get the head bolted back down, hook up my leak down to that cylinder, I can do that
I am not excited about my plugs sticking into chamber tho as slowbird said, I also don't like the thread or I should say lack of thread engagment to hold plug either, machine shop didnt much care for it either.

John
I emailed Dave and he has never had any blow out, I am the lucky one!... I am going to use some index washers to bring them out that 1/8 or so out of chamber.

[lust4speed]

I thought that Time-Serts were used when sealing was necessary, and Heli-Coils were used for dry holes?