[BB70]

ARP headbolts bottomed out ?

[Brent Flynn]

Darby, it’s an engine with 4 bolts around each hole, it gets the dog-living-shi@ ran out of it, tuned for max performance(lean is mean, to a degree)......it’s just going to happen, sooner or later, sure beats putting a piston in the oil pan! I’ve done it, my brothers engine did it, it’s no biggie, just put a new gasket on it and get back to the track......hehe

How long have the heads been on there, anyway? You running 110?

[grandville455]

Originally Posted by BB70

ARP headbolts bottomed out ?

I don't think so since other side is fine, I ran a tap thru all holes last night and blew them out with air. will check tonight tho when i get the head back.

[grandville455]

Originally Posted by Brent Flynn

Darby, it’s an engine with 4 bolts around each hole, it gets the dog-living-shi@ ran out of it, tuned for max performance(lean is mean, to a degree)......it’s just going to happen, sooner or later, sure beats putting a piston in the oil pan! I’ve done it, my brothers engine did it, it’s no biggie, just put a new gasket on it and get back to the track......hehe

How long have the heads been on there, anyway? You running 110?

Brent, By the looks of the EXH headers , she is far from lean,lol. Heads have been on since motor was built in early 2010. No I run pump gas 91 all day man ...

[grandville455]

Originally Posted by 65nss4spdGTO

I would question the flatness of the deck surface after the block or heads were machined.

Calvin Hill
Hill Performance
708-250-7420

Calvin
I would think that also if I didnt find bolts very tight on that side, #7 bottom bolt i barely had to touch to loosen a few others i could break loose with my snap on cordless, other's needed a breaker bar. I checked pass side last night all were still at 100 ft lbs!.. Put it back together tomorrow night, get ready for sunday

[steve25]

I use a adhesive 3M type pad on one of there drill disc to clean the deck and block off, as these do not remove cast iron but will if used on the heads.
You will need to lay news paper in the valley area to keep it clean when doing the block deck.
I retorque the bolts after the first heat up session regardless of the no re-torque design or not.

[grandville455]

Originally Posted by steve25

I use a adhesive 3M type pad on one of there drill disc to clean the deck and block off, as these do not remove cast iron but will if used on the heads.
You will need to lay news paper in the valley area to keep it clean when doing the block deck.
I retorque the bolts after the first heat up session regardless of the no re-torque design or not.

Steve Do U have the part number of that? I just scraped it last night with a razor blade then wiped it down with a cloth with break cleaner on it . Also do u re-torque when warm or let cool all the way back down?
thanks

[chitownTA]

I had the same thing happen when my qjet started going way lean into the secondaries no matter how I tuned it. I heard the steam thumping noise and knew it was the gasket.

Cleaned the block side off with razor blade and red scotch brite. I had the heads resurfaced at SD and ported.

I always torque heads down, get a full heat soak in the engine then shut it down and hit it with torque wrench the next day. I check my bolt torque in the spring and fall before it sits for the winter. Hasn't changed in a couple years now.

[PunchT37]

I let the heads cool down all the way to allow them to "shrink" and everything to finish "moving".

[66bonne]

It is my understanding that iron heads should be retorqued when warm and aluminum should be allowed to cool all the way down. But I think the most important thing is that you retorque them period.

Jim

[Brent Flynn]

I always let my car set , for a day, after break in ... retorque heads, intake, header bolts... seems to work. I would switch to Butler gaskets, if it were me... I run them , on my car, and they work well...

[Torment]

I believe these would be similar to what Steve relays above:

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ARC...ers&cm_vc=FFTS

Sometimes you gotta check under that hood... and quit hot lapping that thing

[grandville455]

Originally Posted by Torment

I believe these would be similar to what Steve relays above:

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ARC...ers&cm_vc=FFTS

Sometimes you gotta check under that hood... and quit hot lapping that thing

It's a pontiac ! U have to check **** still?

I got the head back, they had to take .003 off as the fire ring from where gasket was bad kinda made a very small indentation by #5 on the surface.
Hope to be up tomorrow night.

[grandville455]

Originally Posted by Brent Flynn

I always let my car set , for a day, after break in ... retorque heads, intake, header bolts... seems to work. I would switch to Butler gaskets, if it were me... I run them , on my car, and they work well...

Brent if season was over i may not have went to the felpro again , but i needed these quick and didn't know if butler wouldve gotten me them as quickly?

[Cliff R]

"Darby, it’s an engine with 4 bolts around each hole, it gets the dog-living-shi@ ran out of it, tuned for max performance(lean is mean, to a degree)......it’s just going to happen, sooner or later, sure beats putting a piston in the oil pan!"

+2

We use the stock blue Felpro gaskets for this reason. Sort of like a safety valve of sorts.

One time many years ago we "O" ringed one to keep thing sealed up. Still playing with the tune, the car was into the 9's at that time. Detonated it on a hard run and busted a couple of piston ring lands out. Better to have the gasket breach than pulling the engine and replacing pistons, rod bearings, or even worse....IMHO

Risky these day racing on pump gas alone. I would imagine it gets replaced at the stations less often than the cheaper stuff, since most modern vehicles are built and tuned/run fine on 87 octane. I've got two bad tanks recently from BP, one in my Tahoe and one in my Ultra Classic. They ran poorly till the fuel was replaced, but no negatives otherwise.

Sunoco works better and seems to be more consistent. Even so, if I were bracket racing my car every weekend, I'd blend in a few gallons of race gas to make sure things were happy. It's tuned for 89 octane, but at 11 to 1 compression it would be ugly if I got some poor quality fuel in it on race day.......Cliff

[Brent Flynn]

Never really thought about it, that way, before.... Luckily , when i popped my gasket, (butler), i didnt hurt anything... and it was my fault... went a tad lean in the secondaries...

[steve25]

they are scotch brite type pads, sorry, but the box is long gone to the trash.
They should be easy to fine on the 3M site.

[grandville455]

Well It's back up and running! I used the 1016 Again, torqued it down in three stages ending at 100 ft lbs using the ARP moly lube, I reset all the valves to .004-.006, pass side was opened up to .010 or more on most. Started right up, let it warm up to 185, topped off fluid ,revs quick, and snappy! Looking forward to sunday!

[grandville455]

Originally Posted by steve25

they are scotch brite type pads, sorry, but the box is long gone to the trash.
They should be easy to fine on the 3M site.

I had a real fine flat sanding stone I just went over the deck with that after scraping it and wiping it down.

[Skip Fix]

So question for you guys on "retorquing"-since break away torque is often a lot more than while you are torquing it do you break them all free one at a time and then retorque or just hit them to be sure they are still at 95-100 whatever you used?

I've had some 1016s look a little close to blowing when I pulled them.Still got them on the pump gas motor in the 78 for now.