[0300youmadeit]

Before you didegard this post please read... I have a 1974 FB that has been an ongoing project. About 3 years agod I took the whole care down to bare metal, did most of the bodywork, and primed it with real primer in a booth semi professionally (at a hobby shop on a USMC base). THe car has since spent most of its time in storage, and in various stages of assembly. I am in the process of painting the jambs, cowel, and trunk with the corect color (regatta blue) using a Preval because I was quoted 125 dollars an opening, since these area wont really be seen. So my dilemma at this point is that I want to drive the car but dont have the cash immediately available to get it painted. The main paint job will most likel entail removing all of the primer thats on it, re-prime, then a single stage urethane. I was thinking of just sray bombing the whole exterior (minus the jambs I am painting) and putting it on the road for the summer. It would spend most of its time in a garage when not being driven. Then at the end of the summer, or when I have the cash, break out the DA, bring it back to metal then drop it off with the painter? I would really like to put some miles on this car. Thoughts? thanks
Vic

[67_Krewzer]

Since your on a USMC base and are going to take all the paint off anyway, I would do a some sort of camo scheme and scare the heck out of the locals.

[form74]

Being able to drive your car during the restoration sure will bring a smile to your face. I say do it.

[sts]

In 1986, when I got my car on the road, the apartment complex left a notice on my apartment door. In a round-about way, they said that I couldn’t park a pos vehicle on the parking lot.

They told me that if I primed it one color, it would be fine, so I went to buy some rattle cans. The thing is that Walmart brand, Cherry Red was almost half the cost of primer. So I bombed the car with about 25 cans of Cherry Red, sanded it with #600, and then jumped on it with #7.

It came out beautiful, and it shined lamf. The visual quality was show-level to the point where I don’t think anyone believe that I rattled caned the car.

I ran the car like that for almost a year, until my 1987 GM #62 paint job, the one I just replaced with Obnoxious Orange.

The downside is that rattle can has no durability against uv, meaning the wet-look will haze within a few weeks. The solution was a light waxing to remove the haze.

I have only made a few squirts with the Prevail you mention, so I haven’t used it enough to rate it fairly. Based on my limited use with the sprayer, it’s seems like a rattle can on steroids, meaning that it will be a hell of a lot less work painting the car with that sprayer, compared to rattle cans.

Any automotive-type paint in a can is expensive, and you intend to use single stage paint. If I were in your shoes, I might consider buying the paint I wanted, and apply additional material on the car so that you have plenty of material to color-sand off, then burn it.

It may come out nice enough that you don’t need to buy a professional paint job. If it comes out nice enough, you have excellent bragging rights, but you are going to need to take pictures while painting the car because everyone will think that your lying when you tell them how you did your show-quality paint.

[paint guy]

To the OP: First off, you mentioned that you "primed the car with real primer". I am assuming by that you meant a quality automotive primer designed to go over bare metal. If the car has been in storage (dry) and there is no rust or other failure present, why take that primer off? Just scuff it well to remove any oxides. Secondly: If your Regatta Blue is available in an acrylic enamel and can be loaded into Prevail cans, it will certainly have enough durability for the jambs,cowl area, etc for a long time. You could also overcoat with 2K clear urethane that is now available in aerosol cans that mixes the 2 components together right before you expend all of the contents. I forget who makes them, but they are usually available at most automotive paint supply stores. 2 component epoxy primer is also available this way, usually about $20 per can. I have used the spray can clear on my blasted trans case on my GTO and on a bumper cover on a collision repair with good results. Whatever you do, if you are going to repaint the car in the near future, I would refrain from using any type of wax or sealer on the car after its painted since this will be just another thing to be concerned with when you get the professional job done, and will provide little short term benefit. Good luck with your project.

[1967Tempest]

Originally Posted by paint guy

I would refrain from using any type of wax or sealer on the car after its painted since this will be just another thing to be concerned with when you get the professional job done, and will provide little short term benefit. Good luck with your project.

X2! I did a cheapo paint job and then used all kinds pf wax etc to make it look good, which id did for a little while, but when I pulled that paint off for a SS enamel paint job, It cost a lot more in sandpaper.

You wouldn't think carnuba would make it harder to remove the paint until you go and try to remove the paint!

I have used paint from Napa and they can mix almost anything and put it in a an aerosol can.

Do you know the original kind of primer? if it was 2K, you can let that stand for years with no paint and scuff and shoot later... I did that on my first car..

[0300youmadeit]

Thanks for the feedback. By "real primer" I did mean a real 2k automotive primer applied in a pint booth by the owner of a collision repair shop. Unfortunately it has been comprimosed in a few areas because it was stored outside for about 2 months, but in a garage ever since. I am going to hold off on anything drastic for now. I will have the cowel and jambs done this weekend, and I will get it to the shop for a better estimate. I would take a crack at painting it myself but I just dont have the room, and After doing a little math on what I would pay for in paint, masking supplies,sand paper, increased electric bill, a big fan for tha garage, plastic sheeting, and a gun I wouldnt save much and end up with a 20 foot job at best. Rather pay 1k for a 10 foot job. if i do spraybomb it i will post a picture. thanks again

[geeteeohguy]

In 1999, I got in a wreck with my '83 Toyota pickup. Body shop wanted $300 to paint match the new fender. Went to Kragens, bought a $6 can of 'Sahara Tan' and a can of primer, and spray bombed it. After it was dry, I wet sanded all the way down to 1200. I just washed and waxed the truck last weekend, and the spray bombed fender still matches the rest of the truck perfectly, and has held up as well as factory paint for 14 years...and I live in Fresno, CA, land of the perpetual sun. There are even threads/articles about guys rolling Rustoleum paint on with rollers and wet sanding. One guy on this forum did a '66 GTO convertible in black and it came out great. For about $40 in materials. I too say "go for it".

[1967Tempest]

The Rustoleum paint job is EASY!! My brother and I did his Honda Civic for less then $100.00!!! The paint job lasted longer than the car!!!

[0300youmadeit]

Just an update. I couldnt bring myself to sppray bomb it, and it is now at the paint shop. I am getting a pretty good deal, and shouuld have it back in a few weeks.Cant wait to actually drive this car!!

[0300youmadeit]

Got it back on Saturday, still putting it back together, but I can say I am pretty glad I did not spray bomb it.

[Greg Reid]

Looks good and if you're happy....You did the right thing!

[Ken K]

Originally Posted by geeteeohguy

In 1999, I got in a wreck with my '83 Toyota pickup. Body shop wanted $300 to paint match the new fender. Went to Kragens, bought a $6 can of 'Sahara Tan' and a can of primer, and spray bombed it. After it was dry, I wet sanded all the way down to 1200. I just washed and waxed the truck last weekend, and the spray bombed fender still matches the rest of the truck perfectly, and has held up as well as factory paint for 14 years...and I live in Fresno, CA, land of the perpetual sun. There are even threads/articles about guys rolling Rustoleum paint on with rollers and wet sanding. One guy on this forum did a '66 GTO convertible in black and it came out great. For about $40 in materials. I too say "go for it".

What ever happened to that Rustoleum paint job? I bet it does not look like it did in the pictures now. You would have to be a gluton for punishment to do a Rustoleum paint job on a good car. Just the labor alone takes more time than spending a few dollars more on some single stage urethane would ever be worth messing with Rustoleum and a roller. Do it right the first time. You can paint a car with the $9.99 HF gravity feed paint gun and be done with it.

[Ken K]

You have to have some idea what to ask for when you buy automotive paint. It's like anything else, they will sell you anything if you don't know what to ask for. They can mix you up a pint of single stage urethane. You will also need reducer, hardner and mixing cups. Do it once instead of trying to fix it later. You will just be creating more work for youself or the place doing the work.

[hottrodd]

Seal the car in a good 2k epoxy primer, it will be fine to do lite driving, then when u r ready to paint clean & degreae car, scuff reprime & paint . Many hotrodders drive there cars for a few years before painting, but the cars are sealed in epoxy primer. That's what I would do instead of cheap paint

[Ken K]

You can leave epoxy primer on for over 5 years and scuff it up and paint over it. It will get chalky on the top if you don't do anything to epoxy primer for years. The chalky layer is not hard to remove. Some places are stuck with using junk paint materials because they won't sell solvent based base coats and epoxy primers.

[0300youmadeit]

I am quite glad I did not rattle can it. The amount of work it would have taken for the short duration would not have been worth it. I was able to get it prepped/primed and painted (single stage Poly enamel) and some limited bodywork for 2k. It looks good and will be a great driver i am sure. windshield, lights, and trim going back on this weekend, hope to have it legal by the end of the month.