[chiphead]

I tried all afternoon to reinstall a front coil spring in my lemans. I've got one of those compressors that fits inside the spring and compresses it down against the LCA. I compressed the crap out of the santuff spring and that SOB will NOT compress enough to go inside the spring pocket in the frame. The spring/LCA combo is too tall to make the "turn" and go into into the spring pocket. WTF am I doing wrong? Do I run the compressor through the shock hole and compress the spring into the spring pocket?

[WARPed]

This is the kind of tool I use:
http://www.autotoolworld.com/product...FRJo7AodkHYA1g#

You put it inside the spring - compress - install - dissemble and remove tool through the bottom shock hole.

[Tim Corcoran]

This is one of those jobs that I hate to do. I disconnect the lower ball joint to allow the a-arm to lower enough to get the spring in. It is a real pain to get the ball joint to separate.

[Tom Vaught]

You will have a very hard time if the engine is not in the car. Ask me how I know.

Typically I use the spring compressor to get the spring started in the spring pocket, then use the control arm, floor jack, and a pry bar to keep it in the pocket. Then I bolt up the ball-joint and remove the spring compressor.

If you do not have an engine I have used a 4x4 wedged to a ceiling joist to keep the frame from moving.

Tom Vaught

[screamingchief]

Take the lower control arm bolts out.

Position the LCA/compressed spring assy. with the top of the spring in the frame pocket w/a floor jack under it.

Put a little pressure on the assembly with the floor jack.

Then all you gotta do is coerce the lower control arm bolts back in.

IME,it's rare to be able to get the spring compressed enough with that style compressor so that you can "swing" the bolted-in LCA/spring assy. into place after compressing the spring.

I believe this topic has come up here in the past as well.

HTH

Bret P.

[Ollie]

Check this YouTube video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ayAEikyM9Wg
YouTube search words 79 Trans am front spring install

[screamingchief]

I forgot to add this tidbit of wisdom,some guys do this by compressing the spring from the frame side running the threaded shaft thru the shock bolt hole,and pull the spring up into the frame pocket instead of the LCA pocket,and then install the LCA the way I described.

Six of one,half dozen of the other,whatever way is easier for a given install.

Bret P.

[chiphead]

I have the long version of the compressor that WARPed listed. I'm hoping I can install the spring compressor in the shock hole and compress it enough to swing the arm home that way.

I tried to compress the spring against the arm, insert the spring in the frame pocket and then jack the arm in place. Without the engine, the car tried to lift off the jackstands.

Very scary!

[Grand73Am]

Here's a short picture tutorial that makes it look even simpler than the guy with the straps:

http://transamcountry.com/community/...p?topic=4042.0

[screamingchief]

I forgot you had the engine outta the car.

Yeah,,,that makes it a bit harder to do...

Bret P.

[screamingchief]

BTW: The spring compressor I prefer to use looks like this vvvv.



Pic is from Autozone's site.

Basically one half of the style you have,with a plate for the other side to pull against.

Bret P.

[Tom Vaught]

Originally Posted by chiphead

I have the long version of the compressor that WARPed listed. I'm hoping I can install the spring compressor in the shock hole and compress it enough to swing the arm home that way.

I tried to compress the spring against the arm, insert the spring in the frame pocket and then jack the arm in place. Without the engine, the car tried to lift off the jackstands.

Very scary!

Again, I can read between the lines on these deals. BE SAFE!

Tom Vaught

[Grand73Am]

Originally Posted by screamingchief

BTW: The spring compressor I prefer to use looks like this vvvv.



Pic is from Autozone's site.

Basically one half of the style you have,with a plate for the other side to pull against.

Bret P.

That's the type I've used for 25 years. I put springs in a bit differently than the methods mentioned so far. I hesitate to tell you how I do it, since it is pretty dangerous, even though I've done many springs and never injured myself. The other ways are less risky. But, for the sake of conversation, here it is. I lay the spring on its side on the floor and use the compressor to compress the spring. I use a 1/2" air impact wrench to turn the screw. Compress the spring until the coils are almost touching each other, which will make the spring sufficiently short. Your control arms should already be bolted to the frame, and the spindle can already be connected to the upper or lower ball joint. I bolt the spindle to the lower ball joint. Have a floor jack ready under the lower control arm. Then just sit the compressed spring in the pocket, and make sure it's seated correctly in the top and bottom. Then line up the top of the spindle with the upper ball joint and jack up the lower arm until the upper ball joint stud goes through the upper spindle hole and start the nut. Double-check positioning of the spring in the pockets. Torque both ball joint nuts to spec. Release the compressor and you're done.
When compressing the spring, you have to position the compressor so you leave a coil or 2 free on the top and bottom, so when you release the spring in the frame and on the control arm, you have room to remove the upper hooks and bottom plate. Also, the long bolt goes up from the bottom in this scenario, so when you go to remove the compressor, screw the long bolt out the bottom and fish the hooks out the bottom, and the plate just pulls out from the side of the spring.
But, like I said, it's potentially dangerous. Don't ever point the compressed spring ends toward you, in case the tool slips off the spring. I wear heavy leather welding gloves while compressing and handling the compressed spring too.

[Sammy B]

Compressor??? Safety first...



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[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by Grand73Am

That's the type I've used for 25 years. I put springs in a bit differently than the methods mentioned so far. I hesitate to tell you how I do it, since it is pretty dangerous, even though I've done many springs and never injured myself. The other ways are less risky. But, for the sake of conversation, here it is. I lay the spring on its side on the floor and use the compressor to compress the spring. I use a 1/2" air impact wrench to turn the screw. Compress the spring until the coils are almost touching each other, which will make the spring sufficiently short. Your control arms should already be bolted to the frame, and the spindle can already be connected to the upper or lower ball joint. I bolt the spindle to the lower ball joint. Have a floor jack ready under the lower control arm. Then just sit the compressed spring in the pocket, and make sure it's seated correctly in the top and bottom. Then line up the top of the spindle with the upper ball joint and jack up the lower arm until the upper ball joint stud goes through the upper spindle hole and start the nut. Double-check positioning of the spring in the pockets. Torque both ball joint nuts to spec. Release the compressor and you're done.
When compressing the spring, you have to position the compressor so you leave a coil or 2 free on the top and bottom, so when you release the spring in the frame and on the control arm, you have room to remove the upper hooks and bottom plate. Also, the long bolt goes up from the bottom in this scenario, so when you go to remove the compressor, screw the long bolt out the bottom and fish the hooks out the bottom, and the plate just pulls out from the side of the spring.
But, like I said, it's potentially dangerous. Don't ever point the compressed spring ends toward you, in case the tool slips off the spring. I wear heavy leather welding gloves while compressing and handling the compressed spring too.

This is how I do it when there's not an engine in the car. Sometimes you get the compressor end stuck in there and you have to start over. When I lay it on the floor and compress, sometimes I've used a pry bar in between the coils and on the compressor so it doesn't turn as I tighten.

Most of the time these days I'm going for a higher than stock spring rate, and shorter springs. In this case, most of the time, you can do it without a compressor. The clone I did without an engine and without a compressor and it is only a 1" drop spring. I removed the OE springs with no engine using the method above.

.

[TheSilverBuick]

Another method I've seen done that scares the crap out of me, but might be worth a shot is compressing the spring outside the car as much as possible then bailing wire the bejesus out of it (or high quality banding) on two sides, remove the compressor (and pray), then drop the spring into place, install ball joint all the way, install the shock, and from arms length cut the wires! The shock should keep anything from leaping out, but all that time from the point of spring compressor removed to when the ball joint is set makes me nervous as all heck.

I personally have never had an issue using spring compressors on GM and Ford cars. Rather the 4 hook design or the one pictured.

[Sammy B]

I had a four hook style compressor let go on me about twenty years ago when removing a spring. I almost peed myself. Would never consider using one again. The hydraulic lift method seems to work with me, although it's definitely easier with the engine in the car!

[Tom Vaught]

Originally Posted by Sammy B

I had a four hook style compressor let go on me about twenty years ago when removing a spring. I almost peed myself. Would never consider using one again. The hydraulic lift method seems to work with me, although it's definitely easier with the engine in the car!

Buddy doing springs on his camaro had a flying spring incident and the thing hit him in the chest. Cracked a couple of ribs. So the spring can come out of the deal.

I put a length of wire cable (with a padlock securing the loops) thru the spring and around a suspension member to keep the thing from flying very far.

Tom Vaught

[chiphead]

Compressing it into the frame pocket did the trick. I was able to compress it enough to swing the arm closed. The ratchet strap to the other side of the frame to pull the spring into the LCA is the other secret ingredient. It was pretty damn easy.

I'll post pics of the pass side to show what it looks like. Thanks guys!

[grivera]

Originally Posted by chiphead

Compressing it into the frame pocket did the trick. I was able to compress it enough to swing the arm closed. The ratchet strap to the other side of the frame to pull the spring into the LCA is the other secret ingredient. It was pretty damn easy.

I'll post pics of the pass side to show what it looks like. Thanks guys!

please elaborate on use of the ratchet strap?