[mviker]

Hey guys,

I'm just wondering if any of you have pulled the gauge cluster out of the dash without pulling the entire front bezel off in a 62. I'd rather not pull that bezel unless I have to.

Can it be done?

Kevin

[mviker]

Well, I answered my own question. Looks like a no. I got the cluster loose, but there is just no room to maneuver it out. Time to talk to Mr. Bezel. My good friend. lol

[61-63]

Don't think so. You would at least have to remove all of the screws holding the bezel in and lean it forward quite a ways, perhaps so far that you would have to drop the steering column down, to get to all of the bolts/nuts attaching the gauge cluster to the backside of the bezel. You have to do that anyway, or at least I do, to tag and label all of the bulbs and wires, etc. that attach to the cluster.

[61-63]

Your 2nd post and my post crossed in the mail.

[mviker]

John!

You're absolutely right. I've had the dash apart many times. I was just looking for a shortcut that didn't involve dealing with the radio. Ugh,,,

Yep, got the steering column out, so this won't be too bad. I figured on solving a few things since I'm replacing the cluster. There's a problem with the oil indicator bulb socket to fix, Also rebuilding the turn signal switch, replace clutch rod boot, and a new rag joint. The effort will be worth it.

There's no avoiding pulling the dash. Heck...I don't know why I'm griping, it's almost apart anyway.


Kevin

[Engine-Ear]

Ooof.

Kev, you can (technically) extract the speedo without a dash bezel removal...but I scratched the hell out of the speedo window doing it. ...basically a 1/4 drive ratchet, 4" extension and a deep socket (3/8 I think) to remove the four nuts. That of course is after you unplug the speedo lighting circuit. Use the brake pedal as a headrest. Wear safety goggles to keep that obnoxious tax insulation out of your eyes, too! Or better yet, REMOVE all of that evil-ness!

Or, if you decide to remove the chrome panel, the radio and clock removed DO make it easier.

I haven't had to undo / drop the column but it can't hurt...

...of course all of this is AFTER the fact most likely. Just wanted to chime in as per my usual level of "day late and a dollar short" advice!

[Deadhead]

Originally Posted by Engine-Ear

Ooof.
...of course all of this is AFTER the fact most likely. Just wanted to chime in as per my usual level of "day late and a dollar short" advice!

We call 'em 'Blisters'. They show up after the work is done.

[Engine-Ear]

YEP

[barrierblue66]

Glad the '63 dash pad comes off pretty easy. I was able to manuever my cluster out after that, just taped up the studs so that they wouldn't scratch the plastic lens.

On reassembly, here's a trick I used, maybe some have found this useful in the past.

Those little nuts are really hard to keep your fingers on, reaching behind from the front - hmm, not to be taken outta context I used a little dab of silicone RTV on the tip of my finger and basically pointed towards the stud. Once it contacted, I could get it started turning with the one finger, the RTV holding it on my finger. Once threaded, went back to the small socket.

This also worked for me after I pulled the socket outta the heater control, but the bulb fell out down into the controls. Used some RTV on my fingertip, got my hand in there, just enough to touch the bulb, Stuck to my finger and removed it.

Found the best way to work under the dash was with my back on the seat, and legs hanging over the seatback, then moving underneath as far as I could. Long arms are a problem, as well as getting smacked with the shifter many times.

[mviker]

Hey Matt,

No worries...I considered wrestling the cluster out from under the dash. I have it out, but sitting loose cradled in all the wiring and other stuff up in there. Just gonna pull the dash and do it the way it should be done.

The dash has been pulled so many times, I can almost do it in my sleep. I just got a bit lazy laying there on the floor staring up at it for a bit. Y'know...when you kno0w you have to do something, but you know it's going to be a PITA? lol?

I have the column out too. My goal is to attack the flopping turn signal, replace the cluster, fix a bad wire, and replace the rag joint. The rag joint was an unexpected fix. After removing the column, I took a look at it. It was WASTED!

I did the rag joint when I first got the car on the raod, but later, in my attempts to fix the turn signal and also tighten up clearance between the column and wheel, I managed to pull it back too far without realizing it. Those pin stops on the steering box flange were not engaing on the column side, so I was driving soley on the rag joint itself. Had that gone, I doubt I'd be here, so That's all getting addressed this time around and I'll get it right.

Sokay...I'll wrestle the gauges out again. No sense tearing the cluster up and/or myself along the way. Was just looking for an easy way out when there was none.

Ok...On that rag joint story comes a question...I noticed on the column end that the length may be adjustable. There's that clamp with the bracket for the speedo cable that you tighten. Am I correct to think that some adjustment can be made there to tighten up the clearance between the steering box flange and the column flange? Sure seems that way. If so, that may also tighten up any space issues at the other end between the steering wheel and the column inside the car.

Also...Rebuilding my turn signal switch looks to have drastically improved the turn signal switch operation and feel. Need to get it back into the car to be sure though. Much better.

I'll get the dash done, then start on the column. Still waiting on the clutch rod boot to come in. It's for a 65 Mustanng. Should be here in a day or two.

You guys rock!

Kevin

[mviker]

Originally Posted by barrierblue66

Glad the '63 dash pad comes off pretty easy. I was able to manuever my cluster out after that, just taped up the studs so that they wouldn't scratch the plastic lens.

On reassembly, here's a trick I used, maybe some have found this useful in the past.

Those little nuts are really hard to keep your fingers on, reaching behind from the front - hmm, not to be taken outta context I used a little dab of silicone RTV on the tip of my finger and basically pointed towards the stud. Once it contacted, I could get it started turning with the one finger, the RTV holding it on my finger. Once threaded, went back to the small socket.

This also worked for me after I pulled the socket outta the heater control, but the bulb fell out down into the controls. Used some RTV on my fingertip, got my hand in there, just enough to touch the bulb, Stuck to my finger and removed it.

Found the best way to work under the dash was with my back on the seat, and legs hanging over the seatback, then moving underneath as far as I could. Long arms are a problem, as well as getting smacked with the shifter many times.

Hey Barrierblue...Good advice!

I'm probably gonna pull the drivers seat when the time comes so I can have a place to relax and maybe take a nap. Yes. I've played being a contortionist crawling under the dash with the seats in. There IS a place you can get to that's almost comfortable, but I may as well yank the seat out when this gets rolling full steam. I've got buckets, so it's just the one side. Not too bad.

The part I dislike the most is definitely pfutzing with the radio. I've left it in the bezel and yanked it out, but it's tough going back in that way. Also left it in the dash and pulled the bezel. Think that's probably what I'll do again this time. It's not horribly difficult. Just one of those things ya find aggravating having to tear so much unrelated stuff apart to get the job done.

Also...I've pulled the dash with and without the column. If left in, it's definitely a good idea to wrap it up with a thick towel to prevent scratching it all up.

Now...If the weather would cooperate. lol

[barrierblue66]

Good luck, you probably don't get impatient as I do. Then things start to get broken. I have a bench, BTW, I really dig it. First thing I did to my '70 Tempest in h/s was rip out the bench and put in buckets. My how things change

[mviker]

Ahhh Jeezzzzz. Looks like I'll have even more practice with the dash. I replaced my gauge cluster with one I got at last year's POCI convention. Got the dash all back together and buttoned up and went for a spin. As soon as I got out onto the road, I got the exact same screaming speedo, then it bounced around wildly and broke. Just like the old one. D'oh!

Ah well. Ok, I guess I can send off the original and get it rebuilt/repaired, then do this dash dance again.

Would any of you guys know of someone that can fix these things? I'll dig around in Hemming's and see if I can find someone, but if any of you have first hand experience with a good rebuilder, I'd like to give him my business.

Kevin

[Old Goat 67]

Call Peter Serio.
http://www.precisionpontiac.net/

[barrierblue66]

Sounds like me when I put the tach in my '66. Got everything back together, started the motor, revved it a few times the needle went back and forth, then dropped dead